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M146 power plug

Humanoid Typhoon

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Ava, MO
I have a question that I need answered and you guys are my best chance at getting a good answer. So here it goes.

I have a M146 that came with the plug for the 110 end of things. The problem is the plug for one end is missing and I can't tell what I should put on it to get power. The trailer has a main 50 amp braker and the plug is rated for 60 amp. But everything in the trailer is 110 and I don't know of any plug for 110 that will give me that many amps (50 or 60). So I figured it has to be 220 but I only have 3 wires on the cord. The cord is plenty big enough to handle 220. Any thoughts please.
 

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agazza2

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Ahwatukee, AZ
I think someone may have put the wrong breaker in, or previously used it to power a heater at 208V/220V. Mine has a 20 amp breaker, and I used the standard 110/115/120V plug. Your wires would only support this as well. Due to the size of the cable, I used a 30amp 125 twist lock plug, and then adapted it down to the 115 plug. That way it can plug into my generator with either plug.
 

RAYZER

Well-known member
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sanford/florida
Change the main breaker to 30a making sure its wired 110v in the panel, put an rv 30a plug on the end of your cord.
Be sure to use a grounding rod for the trailer when plugged into a generator.
Have any pic's of the trailer?
 
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Humanoid Typhoon

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Thanks guys. That all makes sense. Here is a pic when I picked it up. I have painted the inside and sandblasted and painted all the metal. Lights door latches ext. I am looking into leveling it to the truck and putting 14.00x20s under it like the truck.
 

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SLOrazorsedge

Member
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San Luis Obispo, Ca
We're in a similar situation brother. I also had the same cable with the end cut off. My panel on my M146 only services 110V interior ceiling lighting and 110V plug receptacles at 4' intervals all along the top of the walls. I used a 30 amp RV twist-lock plug end. Not many generators will provide anymore than a 30 amp 110V service. I have a M932A2 on 14R20's and the M146 is on 9:00X20's with a similar rake when hooked up to the tractor. 14R20's are part of the solution. Check out agazza2 build lifting the rear suspension with frame rails from a deuce and 14R20's. That look is my goal!
 

CGarbee

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Raleigh, NC
My M146 has had the cover plates pulled off the breaker boxes, the outlets and conduit trashed (I think that somebody loaded the trailer with a bunch of cargo that shifted, the light switches also have the tangs broken off...). The 110v wiring on the outside has been reworked with two of the four available wires connected to the plug (dangling in mid-air) with electrical tape on the splices (just tape...).
I'm planning on replacing the boxes, conduit, and outlets and will go with a 30amp RV plug mounted lower down on the front headwall then the current electrical piping.

I'm going to keep the 900x20 tires, my M931 is running on 1100r20 and the box is level enough going down the road, and the tires on it are brand new...

When I get the original electrical bits that I am not going to use removed, I'll list them here in case anyone can use them...

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SCSG-G4

PSVB 3003
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Your cable was probably meant to be hooked directly to a generator, probably a 5kw (MEP-002A), hence no plug on one end, with the other going into the shelter. You are lucky - that two pin plug is north of $180, without any wire!
 

CGarbee

Well-known member
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Raleigh, NC
Your cable was probably meant to be hooked directly to a generator, probably a 5kw (MEP-002A), hence no plug on one end, with the other going into the shelter. You are lucky - that two pin plug is north of $180, without any wire!
I think that I have the other half of that plug dangling from the wires on the front of my trailer... The body looks to be the same size, and it has the two (male) pins...
You will get to look it over at the Graves Rally in VA this weekend... ;)
 

RAYZER

Well-known member
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Location
sanford/florida
Nice trailer! Sometimes it's easier to tear out all of the electrical panels and start over with a new breaker box and standard service plug.
 
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