M149a1 restoration project for a local fire department

Tinstar

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I did one about two years ago.
It was a Rural FD equipment turn in and sold at auction.
A1 frame with A2 tank.
It was rough but complete. Turned out decent

Some parts are difficult to find. (tank mounts)
Some are impossible to find.
Definitely worth it.

Keep the pics coming and if you need any parts, post your needs in the classifieds.

Pics are before and after.
 

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69
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Location
Tallahassee FL
Well prior to being able to tow the jack was literally fuses into its pivot mount and was swung over to where you could not swing it up and lock into place. Literally after heating up it still had to be pounded out to the point the top stud have way and mushroomed out. Wasn’t terribly worried as a new stud can me welded in place. By the grace of God it finally fell out and is now just resting on the mount waiting for some other parts. Well what do you know I was able to source not one but, two complete jack assemblies with one being almost pristine. Will hope fully get to install the “new” one this weekend weather permitting.89EDC54A-C397-4908-92AC-1D3347A35542.jpegBFE0227B-5E42-4EBD-B07F-E484A68157D9.jpeg
 

juanprado

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My m107 had the old big wheel and the whole assembly was siezed up solid. Fused like it had been underwater a few decades...

Timntrucks was kind enough to heat it up and beat it off.
I replaced with the newer crank double wheel like yours. It has a grease fitting so give it occasional love😎
 

Tinstar

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Mine was frozen also.
Used heat and a wooden post slipped in just above the wheel to leverage wheel assembly side to side.
It finally worked.

Thing is heavier than it looks.
It cleaned up nice and I used a lot of anti-seize to prevent any future issues.

Turns like butter now.
 
69
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18
Location
Tallahassee FL
Work has slowed a little on the 149. Department hasn’t ordered any parts except the Jacks I got for them through auction. Now we may be also staring down the barrel of a possibility of a hurricane here so not sure how the next 10 days will go. However, I did get some time to install the new to it jack assembly. Got it installed first time perfect and forgot the bottom washer. :grin:aua So had to go a second time. Was able to just walk it under the tongue and use the jack to push itself into position with minor guidance. Anyone know what the thread size and pitch is for the stud by chance?
 

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juanprado

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not off hand but slop on anti seize on the shaft through the frame and liberally coat both sides of the washer. More slop/goop the better. Also liberally apply to the 2 pins that engage. You will thank me down the road.....
 

Guyfang

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Do you have the TM for this trailer? If not, it is in the TM Forum for download. Here is tech data for the nut.
THREAD CLASS3B
THREAD DIRECTIONRIGHT-HAND
LOCKING FEATUREPREVAILING TORQUE WITH NONMETALLIC INSERT
LUBRICATIONSOLUBLE LUBRICANT
NUT STYLEHEXAGON
NUT HEIGHT0.855 INCHES MINIMUM AND 0.891 INCHES MAXIMUM
WIDTH ACROSS FLATS1.052 INCHES MINIMUM AND 1.064 INCHES MAXIMUM
TEMP RATING250.0 DEG FAHRENHEIT NOMINAL
THREAD SERIESUNJF
THREAD QUANTITY PER INCH16
NOMINAL THREAD SIZE0.750 INCHES
COUNTERSINK ANGLE88.0 DEGREES NOMINAL NUT
BEARING SURFACE TYPECHAMFERED OR WASHER FACED
BEARING SURFACE FINISH125.0 MICROINCHES
MATERIALSTEEL COMP 1006 NUT OR STEEL COMP 1008 NUT OR STEEL COMP 1009 NUT OR STEEL COMP 1010 NUT OR STEEL COMP 1015 NUT OR STEEL COMP 1018 NUT OR STEEL COMP 1035 NUT OR STEEL COMP 11L37 NUT OR STEEL COMP 1213 NUT OR STEEL COMP 12L14 NUT
SURFACE TREATMENTCADMIUM OVERALL EXCEPT INSERT
SURFACE TREATMENT DOCUMENT AND CLASSIFICATIONQQ-P-416,TY 2,CL 3 FED SPEC SINGLE TREATMENT RESPONSE OVERALL EXCEPT INSERT
 
69
52
18
Location
Tallahassee FL
Thanks guyfang. Got a new nut to install and it’s there just hand tight for now. If I can find some replacement inserts that are pressed into the pedestal mount I would like to replace those. They just seem to be like a wear ring or sleeve? Possibly was once graphite impregnated poly in a past life they are very brittle. Or if someone knows the technical term for them so I can find them in the TM or search for new ones.
 
69
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Location
Tallahassee FL
Was able to pick up a reducer for the missing drain plug in the bottom. Went with a reducer to try to use a expanding rubber plug to be able to drain in the field without tools. May work, may not. But just something to make life easy with less to tote. Also broke the rear spigot down to clean and grab so o-rings for when I head back to town. Lastly did the first preliminary wash down of the interior. Next I’ll spray some foaming dawn dish soap in there with my pressure washer and let it set a bit, scrub with a mop, rinse, then pour a gallon of bleach in and fill it up and go for a slosh cruise. Then leave it for 24 hours then drain and rinse.
 

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Tinstar

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Highly recommend towing the trailer either completely full or completely empty.

Without internal baffles, the water can really sprout momentum.

I did the “slosh cruise” on a backroad and at slow speeds. You could really feel the water move and it was a bit spooky and it was half full

More than a few have turned over or caused the tow vehicle to wreck or both.
You’ll still feel it in a 2 1/2 ton deuce.
 

Guyfang

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Yes sir! Been there, seen that, done that. It is very scary the first time it happens. And will not get all that much better, with time. I used to drive the fuel truck. We sometimes took the buffalo with us, as getting fuel always meant being on a Post, and that meant getting water easy. When we went on a run, sometimes the buffalo was not empty. Sometimes we just opened up the taps and drove. It was empty soon. But stopping when it was 1/2 or even 1/4 full, you felt it.

If I was planning on a water trailer, a bolster trailer with an old 600 gal fuel tank would be what I would choose. It had baffles, and you can tie it down safely.
 
69
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Location
Tallahassee FL
Went to flip the ring over and the nut was fused to it. To the point even heat only worked to an extent. Maybe 1-1/2 full turns. Even with dual wrenches, pipes, bars etc it stopped and would not move. So had to cut and spread the nut to remove it. Once removed I could see why it wouldn’t move. The rust had galled the threads down to nothing and what was left powdered and broke inside the thread jamming the nut. Having trouble locating the nut even, through fastenal. So talked to a local machine shop about turning it down to 1 inch with a 14 thread instead of 1 1/8 16 to help with parts availability. For now it’s rigged to move around the yard only for work purposes.
 

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