indy4x4fab
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Small diesel power fuel transfer pump, for helping with those refuelinges, check!!
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M149A2 water tank trailer/ for fuel
- Thread starter RWG421
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I would go with a generator mounted and a electric pump for the diesel
indy4x4fab
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That's what I'm going to use for my water Buffalo build and just mount a plastic or metal tank to it, hoping for a craigslist plastic tank.Gee why did I not think of that.
indy4x4fab
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Like these, great idea topo.
The first is a Scot Centrifugal Pump unit,serial number: 387, mdl: C481404X7879, 50hp, 22.0amps, 24volts, duty 1-HR with 35 gallons per minute maximum discharge flow rate. 25 feet total head. Designed for hydrocarbon fuels and oils. Self-priming. 0.5 HP electric motor. DC current. Frame mounting, (just a thought)
second is a Ampco Pumps, MDL 1 1/4 X 1 KC2, Centrifugal Pump Unit with Baldor-Reliance Industrial Motor. 230/460v, 60hz, 3ph, 3450, 1hp. Pictures representative.
third is a T&J Manufacturing Co., Model 30D36R, Pow'r Gard, Diesel generator set powered by a Wisconsin Robin Diesel, Model WRDI-270, diesel engine. SN: 01375. Electric start with back up pull start. Key is available. 3 Kilowatts, Volts 120/240 AC, Amps 25.0/12.5, 60 Hz. Mounting type: Skid shock tubular frame.
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Certainly a MUCH better option than the M105.
RWG421
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I already have a good condition 105 , so my next purchase will be the pods. How unstable do you think a pod with 400 gallons atop a 105 will be?
My plans are to have a movable fuel source , not necessarily to be used daily over the road.
My plans are to have a movable fuel source , not necessarily to be used daily over the road.
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blybrook
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I don't know about a 400 gallon fuel pod on a M105, but I can comment on a 350 gallon water tank in one. You will want brakes if towing with a civilian rig! I was glad to swap out the original axle for one with electric brakes as I was pulling it with a F250 Diesel. I was able to keep it under control; but if I had to do an emergency stop, there woulda been trouble before the swap.
The M105 with standard axle can easily handle the weight of the water or fuel just fine, never had any problems in that sense. A few other locals have 500+ gallon tanks in M105's, pulling them with civilian vehicles with no brakes and I'll see them swaying from side to side every now and again. They don't seem to have any problems pulling it, but stay outta their way if they need to stop.
Good luck with the project.
The M105 with standard axle can easily handle the weight of the water or fuel just fine, never had any problems in that sense. A few other locals have 500+ gallon tanks in M105's, pulling them with civilian vehicles with no brakes and I'll see them swaying from side to side every now and again. They don't seem to have any problems pulling it, but stay outta their way if they need to stop.
Good luck with the project.
RWG421
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I will have to look into the axle swap for sure.
Thanks,
Thanks,
Scrounge41
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The first photo of the water buffalo looks like one of 2 that were sold on GL yesterday in Tampa. Didn't get a chance to preview but the photos looked great. Was going to bid but they went out of my range pretty fast and ended up around the $1,500. mark.
123mack
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An M353 ould be good. Low cg, adequate capacit, and a deck on the gooseneck for your genset and pump. They show up occasionally on GL.
http://olive-drab.com/idphoto/id_photos_m353_trailer.php
http://olive-drab.com/idphoto/id_photos_m353_trailer.php
RWG421
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Can you modify the 105 brakes to work with a civi rig?
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If you have air on the civy side, sure...
blybrook
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There is a thread on here somewhere where someone put an air compressor in the bed of their truck with an air tank to get brakes on the M105 / M103 series trailers. I don't remember what thread it was off the top of my head.
Another option is to switch to an electric over hydraulic brake actuator. They run for about $100 less than a replacement axle with all the hardware (when I have previously researched them). They work with the electric brake controller mounted to the dash of a civy vehicle (if present).
You would remove the air lines, air pack and master cylinder; then run new brake lines to the front of the trailer (or where ever you mount the actuator); fill then bleed the system.
Be sure to get the drum brake version as the disk brake will provide too much pressure (iirc).
Here is a link to one supplier; there are several out there, this is just one that I looked at when debating the axle swap vs the actuator.
HTH
Another option is to switch to an electric over hydraulic brake actuator. They run for about $100 less than a replacement axle with all the hardware (when I have previously researched them). They work with the electric brake controller mounted to the dash of a civy vehicle (if present).
You would remove the air lines, air pack and master cylinder; then run new brake lines to the front of the trailer (or where ever you mount the actuator); fill then bleed the system.
Be sure to get the drum brake version as the disk brake will provide too much pressure (iirc).
Here is a link to one supplier; there are several out there, this is just one that I looked at when debating the axle swap vs the actuator.
HTH
RWG421
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That's the option I was looking for , perfect! Thanks for the very useful reply