M151 A-1 Coil

fland 244

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Kingston NY
Were you having problems with it and that's why you changed the fuel pump?
electric fuel pump bad.. got a tj murry mechanical.. you pull existing air pump and install the murry pump.... problem is no more air calculation through distributor housing which houses the coil hence it gets how and messes with spark..then let housing cool down truck runs fine
 

acudanut

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Gardner, Ks
electric fuel pump bad.. got a tj murry mechanical.. you pull existing air pump and install the murry pump.... problem is no more air calculation through distributor housing which houses the coil hence it gets how and messes with spark..then let housing cool down truck runs fine
Never heard of this ? How do A2 mutt's coils "cool down". I am still learning, so excuse my ignorance. Cheers
 

cobra5

Active member
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Stevensville, Montana
electric fuel pump bad.. got a tj murry mechanical.. you pull existing air pump and install the murry pump.... problem is no more air calculation through distributor housing which houses the coil hence it gets how and messes with spark..then let housing cool down truck runs fine
I would pull your coil out and see if there is fluid in the bottom of the distributor. Word of caution have gloves on because that fluid is caustic and these coils have a tendency to leak. I've been told the fluid in the coil helps to keep it cool. If you find liquid in the bottom of the distributor than you'll need a new coil.
Did it get hot prior to changing to the mechanical pump? If it didn't, than the fact that you removed the vacuum pump and put the mechanical fuel pump in its place could be the issue because the pump moves air through the lines which also aids in cooling the coil.
 
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acudanut

Member
69
13
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Location
Gardner, Ks
I am with Hambone here.
What fluid are you referring too ? There is oil in the coil, but not some toxic radioactive nuclear waste to worry about. Hmmm
How do A2 coils cool then ? That vent line is worthless (my 2 cents)
 

LCPL 4

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Louisiana
That oil is supposedly made of PCB's... Wiki - "Polychlorinated biphenyls were once widely deployed as dielectric and coolant fluids in electrical apparatus, carbonless copy paper and in heat transfer fluids."

They were found to be a huge human carcinogen. As a cancer survivor who you know has gone through chemo and radiation , only truly evil people would I ever wish going through the same. It ain't worth touching, breathing in, etc. Just get rid of it the best way you can if it is leaking.

Remember the water contamination scandal at Camp Lejeune some years back? PCB's were in that fiasco amongst a ton of other nastiness.
 
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JGBallew

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Location
Paducah, Kentucky
Part of the reason for the vent line was not cooling, it was to keep the ozone generated by the HV jumping across the distributor contacts from eating up the inside of the ignition unit. You won't flow enough air through that vent system to cool much of anything. The fins on the outside of the ignitor unit do more in that regard.

If your coil is overheating and dying, it's probably bad. Set it in the sun, let it get hot, and dig out the multimeter.
Terminal to terminal should be around 6.5K and from the positive to the HV socket, you should get 10 to 11K.

As already mentioned, if it's one of those pretty looking shiny chrome ones, it was defective the day it was made.
Never saw a one of those that lasted.
 
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