M200A1 Dual to single wheel conversion

MrShawn305

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Well, looks like I'm the proud new owner of my third generator set, first to be on a trailer. It is an MEP-805B on a dual wheel M200A1 trailer. I would prefer to have a single wheel variant. I did some searching on here and came up empty handed, but I would like to see what the options are for converting the trailer to a single wheel like the newer trailers are. They appear to be using HMMWV tires and wheels, but I'm not very familiar with trailers, so that may be for a different unit. Does anyone know how I can go about doing that, or should I look into getting a different trailer? It would be to tow behind a pickup (after the brakes and lights are rendered operational). What other trailers are available for the 805B?
 

Coug

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the 200A1 does NOT use HMMWV tires. It uses much larger tires, I believe they match (or at least sometimes match) the duals for a 5 ton or similar truck. At minimum they are semi tires in dual configuration. I've seen one MEP 804 series on an HMMWV trailer (the M1102 chassis I believe, whatever the actual model is for the flatbed gen trailer version I don't know)
They are an air over hydraulic braking system.
The chassis weighs about 2k lbs, the gen weighs about 3k lbs.

You'll either need to do an electric over hydraulic conversion or buy a civilian axle (probably a 7200 lb rated) with electric brakes. Either that or just purchase a civilian trailer to put it on.

Advantage of doing the electric over hydraulic is you can convert it back to original military configuration if you ever sell it.

Advantage of doing a replacement axle is you can run much more common wheels/tires (can probably even match them to your truck), and in doing so lower the trailer at least a few inches, making it easier to tow.

Downside of electric over hydraulic is the trailer is still very tall. The tongue is going to be about 3 feet up in the air, and you really want this to sit level when towing, so you'll have to either raise your hitch height or lower the pintle ring (or more likely a combination of the two) Plus being single axle with the weight up so high it will shift the weight onto the tongue a LOT when braking hard.

Downside of going to straight electric is mostly having to get an axle made to spec and swapping everything out. Not particularly hard if you have the tools and space to do it, and lots of jack stands and large wood blocks to support the chassis while doing the work, or paying a shop a lot of money to do it for you (though might not be that bad depending on the shop)


In theory you could also put it onto one of the M1102 trailer chassis as well. I believe you would be right at the max rated weight, but those ratings are for cross country travel, so if you're keeping it on improved roads then the weight isn't an issue. It would still be kind of tall though.


Depending on what you want to do with it, and how much space you have, putting it on something like a car trailer or smaller double axle utility trailer makes it a lot lower to the ground, lower center of gravity, should already have electric trailer brakes, etc.
 

juanprado

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changing the old school dual 9.00 x 20 is pretty simple and straightforward. Remove one tire and change to regular lug instead of thimbles & outer nuts. Some already have the wider fender and catwalk for the duals so you would have to consider that. There are several varieties of m200 fenders and genset set ups.

The military has changed over to a one piece solid rim with the tubeless ? 11r22.5 ? tires inplace of the lock ring rim and ndt tires on trailers being deployed or upgraded.

Check your state laws as your are well over 3000lbs that most states require brakes. Original air/hydraulic brakes can be converted to electric. I believe the price tag is close to 1K.
 

MrShawn305

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the 200A1 does NOT use HMMWV tires. It uses much larger tires, I believe they match (or at least sometimes match) the duals for a 5 ton or similar truck. At minimum they are semi tires in dual configuration. I've seen one MEP 804 series on an HMMWV trailer (the M1102 chassis I believe, whatever the actual model is for the flatbed gen trailer version I don't know)
They are an air over hydraulic braking system.
The chassis weighs about 2k lbs, the gen weighs about 3k lbs.

You'll either need to do an electric over hydraulic conversion or buy a civilian axle (probably a 7200 lb rated) with electric brakes. Either that or just purchase a civilian trailer to put it on.

Advantage of doing the electric over hydraulic is you can convert it back to original military configuration if you ever sell it.

Advantage of doing a replacement axle is you can run much more common wheels/tires (can probably even match them to your truck), and in doing so lower the trailer at least a few inches, making it easier to tow.

Downside of electric over hydraulic is the trailer is still very tall. The tongue is going to be about 3 feet up in the air, and you really want this to sit level when towing, so you'll have to either raise your hitch height or lower the pintle ring (or more likely a combination of the two) Plus being single axle with the weight up so high it will shift the weight onto the tongue a LOT when braking hard.

Downside of going to straight electric is mostly having to get an axle made to spec and swapping everything out. Not particularly hard if you have the tools and space to do it, and lots of jack stands and large wood blocks to support the chassis while doing the work, or paying a shop a lot of money to do it for you (though might not be that bad depending on the shop)


In theory you could also put it onto one of the M1102 trailer chassis as well. I believe you would be right at the max rated weight, but those ratings are for cross country travel, so if you're keeping it on improved roads then the weight isn't an issue. It would still be kind of tall though.


Depending on what you want to do with it, and how much space you have, putting it on something like a car trailer or smaller double axle utility trailer makes it a lot lower to the ground, lower center of gravity, should already have electric trailer brakes, etc.
I understand that they use bigger tires, I'm wanting to convert to something with single tires *such as* HMMWV, or LMTV tires. Or really, anything modern. I really just want to get away from those old style tire and rims and go to a single wheel setup. I am familiar with the electric over hydraulic brake actuators and could go that route. So I guess what I'm trying to figure out is: Can the hubs be changed to change the bolt pattern? Can I source an axle with the desired lug pattern? Maybe it's not even worth it like you said just because of the tongue height. I might be better off just getting a different trailer like you said.
 

MrShawn305

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changing the old school dual 9.00 x 20 is pretty simple and straightforward. Remove one tire and change to regular lug instead of thimbles & outer nuts. Some already have the wider fender and catwalk for the duals so you would have to consider that. There are several varieties of m200 fenders and genset set ups.

The military has changed over to a one piece solid rim with the tubeless ? 11r22.5 ? tires inplace of the lock ring rim and ndt tires on trailers being deployed or upgraded.

Check your state laws as your are well over 3000lbs that most states require brakes. Original air/hydraulic brakes can be converted to electric. I believe the price tag is close to 1K.
What do you mean by "regular lug" vs "Thimbles and outer nuts"? Do I change the hubs out to do that? I believe the newer rims have a different lug pattern too, don't they?
 

M35A2-AZ

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You would have to get regular lug nuts and not use the thimbles . 6 right hand and 6 left hand. Each of the 9.00x20's are rated for 4000lbs.
 

juanprado

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Hubs are the same with the same bolt pattern. Dual set ups use a different a thimble/inner nut and outer nut than a regular standard lug nut. thimble seats on the inner rim to keep it tight then the 2nd rim slips over it with an outer nut to fit the different threads of the thimble.

Single rims just use a standard lug nut.

Might be able to use bolster trailer rims with 16.5 tires but those are hard to find.

this website shows a picture with the difference of a regular lug nut to a thimble with outer nut. Typically for budd wheels on large trucks/trailers.
 

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MrShawn305

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Post a picture of your trailer just to make sure exactly what you have?
Attached is the setup I'm buying. It should be here Thursday. Now, looking on google search for the trailers I'm thinking of, I realized that what I'm looking for is exactly what I have just with a single wheel. For some reason I was thinking I saw one that used HMMWV or LMTV wheels and tires out here in the field (I live by Ft. Bliss and go trailing out near McGregor range and see their convoys all the time.)
 

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MrShawn305

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So what I'm thinking is just what y'all are saying: Get two rim/tire combos for 6 lug and some lug nuts. This photo I got from Google and looks like what I'm looking for.
 

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juanprado

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According to the PDF Guyfang posted, they are 10R22.5 tires on 7 or 7.5x22.5 wheels 6x222mm lug pattern
Yes, That is the one I referred to as the upgraded one. Could not recall the size. It is a one piece rim . Looks like it is a tubeless radial to me. Same tire/rim as the m105a3 trailer that comes with a front mounted spare as originally there were not many out there. Not sure how readily available these rims are out there in civy hands?
 

M35A2-AZ

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Yes, That is the one I referred to as the upgraded one. Could not recall the size. It is a one piece rim . Looks like it is a tubeless radial to me. Same tire/rim as the m105a3 trailer that comes with a front mounted spare as originally there were not many out there. Not sure how readily available these rims are out there in civy hands?
M105A3, That is ware I have seen that wheel.
 
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