sti-nkr
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How do you bleed the booster? I know I'm reviving an old thread but I just got a new master cylinder and I'd like to know exactly what I'm doing before i start.
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Download the TM, all the info is in there.How do you bleed the booster? I know I'm reviving an old thread but I just got a new master cylinder and I'd like to know exactly what I'm doing before i start.
There have been multiple threads, covering what's entailed in such a conversion (using the stock components) or doing conversions using aftermarket components.Has anyone converted the brakes to a two circuit setup either with a more modern MC or with two stock units operated by one pedal? Or is this just a bad idea?
OK- I have everything to rebuild my brakes end-to-end.
1) Should I start with the wheel closest to the master and work my way back or does it matter?
2) Should I bleed them as I go or wait until I've replaced all the wheel cylinders/ hoses and then bleed?
All advice welcome![]()
The reason I asked was I did it at 15 (before seeing the TM's recommendation) and the bleed rate was weak at the wheel cylinders.I normall pump my tank up to 25 psi or so. Starting with a pretty dry M35, I will have to charge it up at least one time before I am done. Just remember to ssslllloooooowwwwwwlllllyyyyy turn on the fluid into the master. The secondary seal on the master piston is not meant to hold huge amounts of pressure and that is where any leaks will be in a normal functioning brake system. So, don't shock it. If you feel kind of leary, just run 10-15 psi and recharge as needed.
Firmness or travel? With no air in the airpack, the pedal will feel mushy because the air part of the system moves a little from the hydraulic pressure. Make sure you bleed the air pack too.
Travel is more a function of brake shoe adjustment. You can have no air in the system and the pedal will hit the floor if the shoes are too far from the drums.
not trying to insult your ability, just pointing out things people forget when they get shoulder deep into a brake project.
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