devilman96
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I am thinking about doing some wheel work and am wondering what you guys would like to see on your deuce.
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M35 Wheels
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clinto
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I voted for stock wheels are just fine by me, but I would like to see some "bling" wheels-you know, just for crusin' the hood!
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citizensoldier
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I didnt know you did crack clinto..
mhb285
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bitchin.......
citizensoldier
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Hey Mike.. I would love for someone to make a one piece rim that retains the stock rim look but is 10 inches wide for the bigger type tires. All the other makes look to aftermarket to me.. Or a one piece that looks like the A3 rim.. If a guy could build them and sell for a decent price he could make a truck load of cash.. There is one guy on here that does the bobbed duece's and fabs some nice looking rims but will not sell them seperate. Only on his trucks..
Blythewoodjoe
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Hey, you don't have a catagory for two piece 20" x 11" rims like mine. I'm hurt.
Don't forget the video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i12yXpGKIso
Joe Trapp
Don't forget the video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i12yXpGKIso
Joe Trapp
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citizensoldier
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now thats a nice looking rim
Here are a couple of his trucks.. I love the look of the rims..
Well one of them anyway. I cant find the other pics.. It was fire engine red..
Here are a couple of his trucks.. I love the look of the rims..
Well one of them anyway. I cant find the other pics.. It was fire engine red..Attachments
clinto
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RE: now thats a nice looking rim
I do not smoke crack.
I do not smoke crack.
citizensoldier
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RE: now thats a nice looking rim
Ok that ride looks like a dealer truck anyway.. Just messing with ya.. neet photo..
Ok that ride looks like a dealer truck anyway.. Just messing with ya.. neet photo..
Blythewoodjoe
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RE: now thats a nice looking rim
Here's a few pictures of the Tonka truck I took at Aberdeen a few years ago.
Here's a few pictures of the Tonka truck I took at Aberdeen a few years ago.
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devilman96
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RE: now thats a nice looking rim
This is why I wanted you guy's feed back... I had a feeling that there was a call for 20x10 non beadlocking wheels as I think most of us are into the look and being able to run singles more so than the rock crawling experience (not knocking the hobby).
I am looking hard into producing this wheel... If so it will not be a weld up or sampling of parts and pieces but a true drop center, welded, BALANCED, new production wheel assy built just for 2.5 tons... but I would be dumb not to consider other sizes and the likes in the process of doing this.
On the A3 style of wheels... Is it the "look" of the wheel you guys like or the wheels bead locking and removable center function? That is not a cheap list of options!!! I could prolly manage a "look a like" for less than half the going cost on true A3 wheels.
Please keep the feed back coming as it will directly reflect the end product in all aspects!!!!
CS... the correct answer was Meth!!!
Clinto... I figured chrome A3 self inflating would go better with bullet holes in the hood? LOL
This is why I wanted you guy's feed back... I had a feeling that there was a call for 20x10 non beadlocking wheels as I think most of us are into the look and being able to run singles more so than the rock crawling experience (not knocking the hobby).
I am looking hard into producing this wheel... If so it will not be a weld up or sampling of parts and pieces but a true drop center, welded, BALANCED, new production wheel assy built just for 2.5 tons... but I would be dumb not to consider other sizes and the likes in the process of doing this.
On the A3 style of wheels... Is it the "look" of the wheel you guys like or the wheels bead locking and removable center function? That is not a cheap list of options!!! I could prolly manage a "look a like" for less than half the going cost on true A3 wheels.
Please keep the feed back coming as it will directly reflect the end product in all aspects!!!!
CS... the correct answer was Meth!!!
Clinto... I figured chrome A3 self inflating would go better with bullet holes in the hood? LOL
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RE: now thats a nice looking rim
If wishes were horses.. I would like a 10" wide one piece "tubeless" type with an offset that would permit a compromise so that they would not rub on the front for steering, and they could be run "concave" on the rears to sort of maintain the original appearance as well as moving the center of the tire inward to be close to centered over where the 'gap' would be on a set of stock duals.
I would prefer not to flip the hubs as there have been bearing issues reported with this, and it is alot of (in my opinion) un-necessary work. It also defeats some of the brake drum heat-sinking since the wheel's large air-cooled radiating surface is far away from the brake drum due to the flipped hub.
Something like Joe's and Sermis's beautiful wheels (except tubeless unless it's going to cost the big $).
I am not concerned about in-line tracking (as-is the truck doesn't do it anyway) although it seems to be a popular ideas.
I took the drawings gringeltaube made in the topic
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index....opic&t=8666&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=20
and try to show what it would be like of the rear hubs were not flipped and rims made by the drawings were used. In that thread it was said there was no rubbing on the steering box, but the rear hubs had been flipped. So I got motivated enough to explore this image-wise. In my picture, the center of the truck rear axle is to the right (no hub-flip). Maybe the offset could be possibly reduced even a little further and still not protrude the fronts outside the fenders.
What are the widths of the front and rear axles of the M35?
If wishes were horses.. I would like a 10" wide one piece "tubeless" type with an offset that would permit a compromise so that they would not rub on the front for steering, and they could be run "concave" on the rears to sort of maintain the original appearance as well as moving the center of the tire inward to be close to centered over where the 'gap' would be on a set of stock duals.
I would prefer not to flip the hubs as there have been bearing issues reported with this, and it is alot of (in my opinion) un-necessary work. It also defeats some of the brake drum heat-sinking since the wheel's large air-cooled radiating surface is far away from the brake drum due to the flipped hub.
Something like Joe's and Sermis's beautiful wheels (except tubeless unless it's going to cost the big $).
I am not concerned about in-line tracking (as-is the truck doesn't do it anyway) although it seems to be a popular ideas.
I took the drawings gringeltaube made in the topic
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index....opic&t=8666&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=20
and try to show what it would be like of the rear hubs were not flipped and rims made by the drawings were used. In that thread it was said there was no rubbing on the steering box, but the rear hubs had been flipped. So I got motivated enough to explore this image-wise. In my picture, the center of the truck rear axle is to the right (no hub-flip). Maybe the offset could be possibly reduced even a little further and still not protrude the fronts outside the fenders.
What are the widths of the front and rear axles of the M35?
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Blythewoodjoe
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RE: now thats a nice looking rim
I thought a few years ago that my deuce (former deuce) would look good with some wide single tires on the front and rear. After seeing the Tennis truck at Aberdeen I really wanted to do that but the 14.00 was too tall. Now with the other tires available it's doable.
At any rate I figured if I every widened a rim, for the front I would move the out side farther out. Which is what I have done with my 11" rims. Using the stock rim to do this I figured I could flip the rim and mount it like a 5 ton singled out truck and that would keep the edge of the tire near the out side of the bed on the back of the truck. Your right, it wouldn't track perfectly, but I have not understood the need of tracking. That doesn't mean it isn't good, I just don't see the need.
If you are going to make a new rim, make it 20" over the hub and then reduce the diameter on the outside for a few inches and then back out to 20" so this would be a true one piece rim. That is what I was thinking of doing with the ditch witch tire pictured here:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index....opic&t=9952&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=20
You couldn't do it over the hub because the brake drum on the front is too big.
I thought a few years ago that my deuce (former deuce) would look good with some wide single tires on the front and rear. After seeing the Tennis truck at Aberdeen I really wanted to do that but the 14.00 was too tall. Now with the other tires available it's doable.
At any rate I figured if I every widened a rim, for the front I would move the out side farther out. Which is what I have done with my 11" rims. Using the stock rim to do this I figured I could flip the rim and mount it like a 5 ton singled out truck and that would keep the edge of the tire near the out side of the bed on the back of the truck. Your right, it wouldn't track perfectly, but I have not understood the need of tracking. That doesn't mean it isn't good, I just don't see the need.
If you are going to make a new rim, make it 20" over the hub and then reduce the diameter on the outside for a few inches and then back out to 20" so this would be a true one piece rim. That is what I was thinking of doing with the ditch witch tire pictured here:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index....opic&t=9952&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=20
You couldn't do it over the hub because the brake drum on the front is too big.
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RE: now thats a nice looking rim
The ditch witch wheel looks good as far as it goes. I didn't mean to imply by the drawings that I was asking for curved centers, flat is OK. My 2 cents were to not make it mandatory to flip the rear hubs.
The ditch witch wheel looks good as far as it goes. I didn't mean to imply by the drawings that I was asking for curved centers, flat is OK. My 2 cents were to not make it mandatory to flip the rear hubs.
Blythewoodjoe
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RE: now thats a nice looking rim
Here's a crude drawing of what I was talking about. The low spot on the left is where the tire would be maneuvered into place. It's not enough space over the hub and brake drum for this depressed area. BTW, I'm no artist.
Here's a crude drawing of what I was talking about. The low spot on the left is where the tire would be maneuvered into place. It's not enough space over the hub and brake drum for this depressed area. BTW, I'm no artist.
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devilman96
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RE: now thats a nice looking rim
How does 215$ sound for 20X10 drop center tubeless wheels that are actually STRAIGHT and balanced?
Anyone have a A3 wheel assy they are willing to sell?
How does 215$ sound for 20X10 drop center tubeless wheels that are actually STRAIGHT and balanced?
Anyone have a A3 wheel assy they are willing to sell?
Blythewoodjoe
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RE: now thats a nice looking rim
That sounds pretty good. If you are proposing what I think you are make sure you measure the clearance between the rim and the brake drum.
I was pondering this subject today and wondered about something I have always heard. I was told that they made the tubeless tire bigger than the tube tires so you couldn't accidentally mount a tubeless tire on a tube rim. After looking at the distance between the wheel and the brake drum I have concluded they had to make the tubeless rims bigger just to clear the hubs. Look at a Dayton wheel.
Who knows?
Joe Trapp
That sounds pretty good. If you are proposing what I think you are make sure you measure the clearance between the rim and the brake drum.
I was pondering this subject today and wondered about something I have always heard. I was told that they made the tubeless tire bigger than the tube tires so you couldn't accidentally mount a tubeless tire on a tube rim. After looking at the distance between the wheel and the brake drum I have concluded they had to make the tubeless rims bigger just to clear the hubs. Look at a Dayton wheel.
Who knows?
Joe Trapp
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Re: RE: now thats a nice looking rim
In the drawing, if the center of the truck is to the right, then are you proposing the center of the tire be offset more to the inside? I am just thinking about the fronts and the annoying steering box arm.Blythewoodjoe said:
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Re: RE: now thats a nice looking rim
- but I better go measure the height of my truck as the shelter is pretty well up there and I don't want to get too close to 13FT. (don't laugh - there are some low bridges around here.)
$215 sounds pretty reasonable especially since the tires look like they are common and cheap, like what $75 for a 90% one? Can the customer specify the offset and backspace to some degree? I'd be interested to see some general drawings.devilman96 said:
- but I better go measure the height of my truck as the shelter is pretty well up there and I don't want to get too close to 13FT. (don't laugh - there are some low bridges around here.)
rdixiemiller
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RE: Re: RE: now thats a nice looking rim
You could make a wheel like some of the 5 tons use, mount it one way for the rears, the other way for the fronts. This way you could get the wheels tracking straight without flipping the hubs. If you already had flipped hubs, the wheels would still work, as you would just mount them the same as the fronts.
Sounds like a good idea D-Man, see what you can come up with.
You could make a wheel like some of the 5 tons use, mount it one way for the rears, the other way for the fronts. This way you could get the wheels tracking straight without flipping the hubs. If you already had flipped hubs, the wheels would still work, as you would just mount them the same as the fronts.
Sounds like a good idea D-Man, see what you can come up with.