RangerDave
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Thanks greenjeepster, I will take a look and see if there is enough room in the oil cooler to put the heater... The element is about 3 1/2 inches long.
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if you screw the 3/4 inch block heater into the oil cooling system it will cook the oil .it will cause it to catch on fire and your truck will burn up please greenjeepster do this to your truck show us a video of that
I want to do this, but it will be next weekend before I'm home. Hopefully (or not, depending on your climate preference) it will be cooler than it is now. I was thinking of taking some pictures (or video ) of the motor temps measured by the IR gun at different times (say every 30 minutes or so) and at differents spots on the motor (water pump, hoses, radiator, intake and block). This should give some pretty good data on how well one particular model/brand of coolant heater works.would somebody go and buy a simple IR temp gun and use it. and show us where the heat is and how much of the block is getting warm?
Greenjeep,TM.... If you pull the plug I am referring to on the oil cooler I think you will find that it is in the water coolant side.... it isn't going to have any impact on the oil.
It will do what you thought your water pump with the hole in the back was supposed to be doing. You haven't addressed that hurdle in your water pump heating theory yet... I figured you would have some other theory to explain how the heat is efficiently getting from the water pump and into the block..... haven't seen it yet though....
Roscoe: You have added heat to the water in your truck..... Physics dictate that it has to raise the temp of that water so of course you will see an improvement in starting if it is plugged in long enough..... I am not debating that.
Think of it this way.... You are loading a manure spreader with a pitchfork when there is a bucket loader sitting right next to the shat pile. Both methods will work... one takes a lot more time and energy.
Tiger: I thought I was done.... but apparently we are both hard headed. Check back in July and we will probably still be at it.
Eventually, the thermostat will open, even with only 600 Watts of heat being applied to its downstream side because there is no forced coolant flow, only thermosiphon. The thermostat, being only pressed sheet metal, offers minimal thermal resistance.Derby:
The diagram show the circulation of the coolant when the pump is moving the water.
As far as the up then down comment... It will go up until it reaches the thermo. At that point the heater continues to heat water and the heat has to work down backwards because it has nowhere else to go. It is a very simple concept...not sure why so many on here do not understand it.
I have no bone in this argument... I have presented the facts for those who are undecided about a heater....... I understand the defensive stand point if this is how you have yours installed. My posts are to benefit those who have not installed a heater yet... Just trying to save them a few bucks on the heater and electricity.
Good luck
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