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M35a2 charging system question

Victorious1!

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My deuce is not charging. Thought it was a bad alternator so I changed it out. still shows that its not charging. Checked the voltage at the back of the unit and its puting out about 23 or 24 volts. I think it should be showing about 26 to 28v. Its a 60 amp alt. My question: is the regulator internal (rear half of the alternator) or is it the black module box attached to the fender well on the drivers side? and would this be causing the symptom.
 

Scrounger

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Southern, Maryland
If you have an alternator the regulator should be internal, actually it is on the back of the unit. If an alternator is not charging the voltage that one would get from the output is what the batteries are providing. One simple way to check for output is to see what the alternator is putting out without the batteries hooked up. There is an exciter wire, the small one from the alt that needs current for the alt. to work. There usually is a wire from the main switch that sends current to the alternator to excite it. The first thing I would do is with the main switch on check the voltage at the excite wire at the alternator. Then power output on alternator. The output should be around 28.4 volts.
 

Barrman

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Giddings, Texas
The black box on you drivers side inner fender is most likely your blinker flasher control unit. 3 wires with one of them looped back around to ground on the mounting bolt?

The alternators can also be adjusted for output. Look at the pulley end of the unit. There will be a hex plug between the pulley and the cap where the two wires go. Somewhere around that hex plug should be some stamped words such as V adj. and an arrow. Mine is on the front of the unit, but I have seen some where it is on the side. Pull the plug and adjust the little screw. But, remember that a little adjustment goes a long way.

Having written all of that, I don't think the adjust ment is out if it was working before. I suspect the exciter wire as suspected in the above post.

Let us know what you find.
 

readyman

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Elk Grove Village, Illinois
If the alt/bat wires were connected during the test run you might have been just picking up the battery's 24v. You're right, when charging the alt should put out 28v. Make sure the exciter wire is getting 24v at the solder post.
 

Victorious1!

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Thanks

Thanks loads. I can turn a wrench but when it comes to electrical, Im kinda lost. Im at work right now(my paying job that is) when I get home I'll run those checks and see if I can't isolate the problem. Thanks again.
 

cpenni

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charlotte nc
hi all did this problem get fixed? my deuce is having the same problem 24 volts on the exciter wire output 23.8 at batt. replaced alt. samething any ideas welcome
 

Dblbeard

Member
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Location
South Carolina
I have a problem here myself, I'm trying to find time to pull the Generator/Alternator off my M35A2.

I've always been told the Military MV diesels always used Generators instead of Altenators, here on SS I see a lot of people calling Generators Altenators.
Bottom line is I don't have any voltage being produced by the Alt/Gen going to the batteries, only the 24v being supplied by the batteries.
I've got a friend that use to work in an alternator shop and said he can have it rebuilt, I just haven't had time to take it to him.

In your case, if you have 24V on the exciter wire that doesn't mean yours is charging either. The heavy wire going to the battery should have over 24v, as most say here
about 27-28v.
I've seen the factory 24v Generators on sites for as much as $800, I need to do some searching to see what everyone here is using as a lower cost fix for our problem.

If I find something I will share.
 

eagle4g63

Well-known member
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Location
North/west Indiana
A cheaper alternative to the military alternator is to go with a civi unit......you can contact TmAmerica, he makes the brackets to run this set up.........in the pic I actually have both kits he makes so I have both a 24 volt civi alternator(bottom) and the 12 volt(top) add on kit........way cheaper than a military alternator, and easier to get a hold of.
 

Attachments

swbradley1

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Dayton, OH
I have a problem here myself, I'm trying to find time to pull the Generator/Alternator off my M35A2.

I've always been told the Military MV diesels always used Generators instead of Altenators, here on SS I see a lot of people calling Generators Altenators.
Bottom line is I don't have any voltage being produced by the Alt/Gen going to the batteries, only the 24v being supplied by the batteries.
I've got a friend that use to work in an alternator shop and said he can have it rebuilt, I just haven't had time to take it to him.

In your case, if you have 24V on the exciter wire that doesn't mean yours is charging either. The heavy wire going to the battery should have over 24v, as most say here
about 27-28v.
I've seen the factory 24v Generators on sites for as much as $800, I need to do some searching to see what everyone here is using as a lower cost fix for our problem.

If I find something I will share.

Flip the main switch to start the truck (don't start it) and you should have battery voltage from frame/chassis ground to the exciter wire. If your battery voltage is 24.0VDC across both batteries then you will have 24.0VDC on the exciter.
Start the truck and check the voltage on the large wire post on the alternator. You have 28VDC or a little more but if your batteries are not fully charged you will read a little lower, say 27VDC.

If the truck is running and you have Battery voltage on the large post you can try adjusting and if that doesn't bring it up the alternator is bad. Good luck finding someone to rebuild it but if they can test it the results should be the 28VDC plus and around 55 AMPs of current. I just put a civi unit in mine.
 

cranetruck

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Early models use 25 amp generators with external regulator mounted on firewall. Later, 1970 or so, the 60 amp alternator replaced the generator/regulator system.
Often the alternator regulator fails because of loose battery connections, which will cause damaging electrical "spikes" Main reason why all electrical devices, radios etc, must be off when starting the engine.
The alternator regulator is a printed circuit board on the back of the alternator, which can rather easily be replaced. Costs $25 to $65...
 

swampzr2

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Algonquin, IL
I have been having an issue where one of my batteries is losing voltage over time and suspected the Alternator/Generator. I did the tests you said and everything looks good except I show getting up to 29.9V off the alternator. Is this too much? Would that cause an issue to ruin a battery? I had Walmart test the one battery and they said it was reading only 2V. Maybe the battery went bad, or did the alternator ruin it?



Flip the main switch to start the truck (don't start it) and you should have battery voltage from frame/chassis ground to the exciter wire. If your battery voltage is 24.0VDC across both batteries then you will have 24.0VDC on the exciter.
Start the truck and check the voltage on the large wire post on the alternator. You have 28VDC or a little more but if your batteries are not fully charged you will read a little lower, say 27VDC.

If the truck is running and you have Battery voltage on the large post you can try adjusting and if that doesn't bring it up the alternator is bad. Good luck finding someone to rebuild it but if they can test it the results should be the 28VDC plus and around 55 AMPs of current. I just put a civi unit in mine.
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,275
1,796
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
14.6 volts is considered the most voltage one battery can get and not get hurt. You should have 28.6-29.2 volts at the most with a running M35.

It sounds like your alternator is putting out too much. Try adjusting the small screw. Just remember that a little turning goes a long way.
 
980
24
18
Location
Dover, New Hampshire
cpenni, I had this same problem.
When I removed my generator to weld on a new mounting tab (I snapped the other one clean off over tightening the mounting bolt). The generator was giving me nothing, turned out it needed to be polarized. Worked perfect after that.
 

rdh226

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Location
NH
If you have an alternator the regulator should be internal, actually it is on the back of the unit. If an alternator is not charging the voltage that one would get from the output is what the batteries are providing. One simple way to check for output is to see what the alternator is putting out without the batteries hooked up.
NO!!

The battery(ies) act as a filter on the DC circuit, capping electrical switching transients that can easily hit
200 (TWO HUNDRED) volts. Many 24V Electronics do not react well to 200V appearing on their power
feed.

Now maybe the various and sundry M35's effectively have no "electronics" to destroy...
but a bad habit to get into nonetheless.

I have an interesting "Application Note" from Intel on this subject, but offhand don't know how
to "attach" a text document to one of these replies, so I'll try to just dump it inline following

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Intel AP-125THE AUTOMOTIVE ENVIRONMENTThe automobile presents an extremely hostile environment for electonicsystems. There are several parts to it:1. Temperature extremes from -40C to +125C (under the hood) or +85C (in the passenger compartment)2. Electromagnetic pulses from the ignition system3. Supply line transients that will knock your socks offOne needs to take a long, careful look at the temperature extremes.The allowable storage temperature range for most Intel MOS chips is-65C to +150C, although some chips have a maximum storage termperaturerating of +125C. In operation (or "under bias," as the data sheets say)the allowable termperature range depends on the product grade, asfollows: Grade Ambient Temperature Min Max Commercial 0 70 Industrial -40 +85 Automotive -40 +110 Military -55 +125The different product grades are actually the same chip, but testedaccording to different standards. Thus, a given commercial-grade chipmight actually pass military temperature requirements, but not havebeen tested for it. (Of course, there are other differences in gradingrequirements having to do with packaging, burn-in, traceability, etc.)In any case, it's apparent that commercial-grade chips can't be usedsafely in automotive applications, not even in the passenger compart-ment, and automotive or military chips are required in under-the-hoodapplications.Ignition noise, CB radios, and that sort of thing are probably the leastof your worries. In a poorly designed system, or in one that has notbeen adequately tested for the automotive environment, this type of EMImight cause a few software upsets, but not destroy chips.The major problem, and the one that seems to come as the biggest sur-prise to most people, is the line transients. Regrettably, the 12V bat-tery is not actually the source of power when the car is running. Thecharging system is, and it's not very clean. the only time the batteryis the real source of power is when the car is first being started,and in that condition the battery terminals may be delivering about5V or 6V. As follows is a brief description of the major idiosyncraciesof the "12V" automotive power line.o An abrupt reduction in the alternator load causes a positive vol- tage transient called "load dump." In a load dump transient the line voltage rises to 20V or 30V in a few microseconds, then decays exponentially with a time constant of about 100 microseconds. Much higher peak voltages and longer decay times have also been reported. The worst case load dump is caused by disconnecting a low battery from the alternator circuit while the alternator is running. Nor- mally, this would happen intermittently when the battery terminal connections are defective.o When the ignition is turned off, as the field excitation decays, the line voltage can go to between -40V and -100V for 100 micro- seconds or more.o Miscellaneous solenoid switching transients can drive the line to + or -200V to 400V for several microseconds.o Mutual coupling between unshielded wires in long harnesses can in- duce 100V and 200V transients in unprotected circuits.What all this adds up to is that people in the business of buildingsystems for automotive applications need a comprehensive testing pro-gram. An SAE guideline which describes the automotive environment isavailable to designers: SAE J1211, "Recommended Environmental Prac-tices for Electronic Equipment Design," 1980 SAE Handbook, Part 1, pp22.90 - 22.96.Some suggestions for protecting circuitry are: A transient suppressoris placed in front of the regulator chip to protect it. Since the risetimes in these transients are not like those in ESD pulses, lead induc-tance is less critical and conventional devices can be used. The regu-lator itself is pretty much of a necessity, since a load dump transientis simply not going to be removed by any conventional LC or RC filter.Special I/O interfacing is also required, because of the need for hightolerance to voltage transients, input noise, input/output isolation,etc. In addition, switches that are being monitored or driven by thesebuffers are usually referenced to chassis ground instead of signalground, and in a car there can be many volts difference between the two.[Several "figures" and graphs are of ASCIIty not shown here; there isone very striking "Figure 25. Transient Created by De-energizing anAir Conditioning Clutch Solenoid" ('scope photo) with an incredible-400V microsecond-sized transient shown. Ye-Ouch!]
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Well, that looks hideous, lost all pretenses at formatting. Oh well...I tried.

-RDH
 
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