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M35A2 Garwood 10k Winch issue

USAFNB

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Xenia, Ohio
Gents,

Have not posted on here very much but have lurked for a while. I recently moved to Ohio with the help of Clinto and have now acquired a winch for my Deuce. I got it pretty cheap so I expected to do some repairs however I am having an issue getting the winch engaged. I have checked the gears and they look good with no missing teeth and spin freely. However when I engage the clutch and spin the PTO input shaft, the drum does not spin. I have searched the forums but not much info on anyone having a similar issue. I have an semi-exploded parts diagram but wanted to ask some other smart people their thoughts prior to complete tear down. could it be the clutch collar not completely seating? any parts that are known to cause this issue?

Appreciate any help,
Nick
 

gringeltaube

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After engaging the clutch - and pulling out the drum lock - can you turn the drum more than 60 degrees, any direction?



G.
 

USAFNB

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G.

When I rotate the drum, it catches and does not want to move. I would say it is about 60 degrees before I feel it catch.

Nick
 

gringeltaube

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Well, that much play seems normal to me. It's inherent to the design, and it may take a couple of turns at the driveshaft, before the drum actually "locks in" and starts moving.

Pics below may help to explain this...


G.
 

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USAFNB

Member
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Location
Xenia, Ohio
G.

Thanks for the great info and pictures...I will give it another shot after work tomorrow and let you know how it goes. :tank:

Nick
 

jatonka

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You do know that there is a shear pin where the PTO shaft couples to the input shaft of the winch, Right?
Next trouble can be a gunked up engagement linkage where you throw the clutch lever on the right rear of the winch. I had a winch that I thought was broken internally, took it apart and found the sliding dog collar was stuck. Cleaned, lubed and it works 100% now. just some thoughts. JT
 

USAFNB

Member
96
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Location
Xenia, Ohio
JT, I should have clarified it was not on the truck. I did check and the clutch is somewhat gunked up so I will clean it and re-grease. Thanks for the heads up.

G.,

just as you said after a few more turns the drum apun as it was supposed to!

Thanks for the help! Much appreciated

Nick
 

Wildchild467

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Did you flip the clutch lock lever out that is be hind the winch? This prevents the clutch from engaging like a secondary safety feature. with it locked, the clutch lever on the winch will move slightly, but may not be as much as you need to have it fully lock. I hope this helps!

Don't forget to check the oil in these things and crack a drain plug to check for water. Just a little bit of PM goes a long ways. If you change the oil in the winch, I suggest engaging the PTO with the winch clutch out for about 1 minute or so to stir things up in the worm gear housing. Then angle the truck down hill if possible, set brakes, wheel blocks, low range, reverse, etc, and pull the drain plug. This angle helps get more oil out. When the oil is all out, you can look inside the drain hole to see the steel worm gear. With the PTO in neutral, you can get a pipe wrench and turn the driveshaft to inspect all sides of the worm gear for any signs of rust or pitting. Rust or pitting is hard on the bronze driven gear. Then refill the winch with gear oil made for brass/bronze worm gears. Mobil has some stuff out there that is real thick and made for worm gears. It doesn't take much so getting the good stuff wont kill the bank. I know it was a little bit of a tangent, but I'm big on PM.
 
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