M35A2 Rear Harness

jimm1009

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There has been lots of discussion on wire harness replacement and I have a question.
I purchased a new front harness about a year ago. I fabricated my rear harness myself due to the weird high cost of this one with only 7 wires in it.
As most know there is a bulkhead connector in the center of the truck for replacement of the front or rear harness depending on the need at the time.
In TM 9-2320-361-20P Figure 61 sheet 1 of 2 there are three separate components to make up this 7 pin connector for the rear harness to connect to the front one.
7722322 bushing, 7722369 connector, and 7723308 nut.
Since I fabricated my own harness I obviously do not have the new connector that would come attached to a professionally fabricated part.
Does anyone have a source for this connector either in the three individual pieces or as an assembly.
I have my old one but the wiring in the harness is dated 1-69 so I will not be reusing that connector or any other sub-components of the old harness.
My rear harness is all 14 gage wire with Prestolite as the manufacture and while I do remember that is conforms to a Mil-Spec I do not have the wiring here with me
to list it for background information. My particular truck has a date of 04/1970 for acceptance so the harnesses are appropriate and original as installed by Kaiser-Jeep
during manufacture.
Any information would be greatly appreciated as I would like to add this to the front end of my harness.
Jim

jimm1009 here on S.S.
or
m1009jim@yahoo.com
 

tobyS

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Maybe one of the vendors will have the half you are looking for. Mine is being re-used.

On mine, those 7 wires ( from the connector) now go to a control box and a 3 wire so cord goes from the control box to each light... which are all now LED with high and low. Being one of the slowest vehicles on the road, I want to be seen.

Thus each of 4 lights (2 red, 1 amber, 1 white) on each side rear, has its own dedicated 3 wire cord so I can have flash, strobe and alternating patterns. So each back corner has 4 sets of wires (x2).

To keep track and orderly, I put each 4 wire bundle into a nylon tig torch cover.

Maybe this will give you some ideas if you are thinking about LED. I would not hesitate to make a soldered splice and eliminate the connector.
 

Welder1

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Albany Ga
There has been lots of discussion on wire harness replacement and I have a question.
I purchased a new front harness about a year ago. I fabricated my rear harness myself due to the weird high cost of this one with only 7 wires in it.
As most know there is a bulkhead connector in the center of the truck for replacement of the front or rear harness depending on the need at the time.
In TM 9-2320-361-20P Figure 61 sheet 1 of 2 there are three separate components to make up this 7 pin connector for the rear harness to connect to the front one.
7722322 bushing, 7722369 connector, and 7723308 nut.
Since I fabricated my own harness I obviously do not have the new connector that would come attached to a professionally fabricated part.
Does anyone have a source for this connector either in the three individual pieces or as an assembly.
I have my old one but the wiring in the harness is dated 1-69 so I will not be reusing that connector or any other sub-components of the old harness.
My rear harness is all 14 gage wire with Prestolite as the manufacture and while I do remember that is conforms to a Mil-Spec I do not have the wiring here with me
to list it for background information. My particular truck has a date of 04/1970 for acceptance so the harnesses are appropriate and original as installed by Kaiser-Jeep
during manufacture.
Any information would be greatly appreciated as I would like to add this to the front end of my harness.
Jim

jimm1009 here on S.S.
or
m1009jim@yahoo.com
So what do you consider weird high cost? You can buy the rear harness for $150. Just curious how much you will have in finding the connectors.
 

runk

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Houston, TX
Most of the big electronic parts houses will have those parts. However, it is really hard to change that old part number into a current part spec, there are about a million different options for the round mil-spec connectors. An example supplier-

In addition I'll bet that the parts that make up the connector (the three you've listed + pins or sockets) will cost well over $100 as single parts. Then you will need $150-$1000 worth of assembly and crimping tools.

If you can't reuse the connector, I would just buy a whole harness. I've carefully disassembled and cleaned several for reuse, leaving short pigtails of the old wire. They are designed to come apart, although age can be hard on the rubber/plastic bushing the pins/sockets are in. The tools are needed to crimp the pins/sockets and then insert them in the bushing, I wouldn't disturb those.

I work in aerospace, and needed a replacement connector for a trailer. I was friends with another engineer who helped me figure out the parts, and we had all the tools at work. Buying a whole replacement harness was still cheaper.
 

jimm1009

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Location
Louisville, KY
Most of the big electronic parts houses will have those parts. However, it is really hard to change that old part number into a current part spec, there are about a million different options for the round mil-spec connectors. An example supplier-

In addition I'll bet that the parts that make up the connector (the three you've listed + pins or sockets) will cost well over $100 as single parts. Then you will need $150-$1000 worth of assembly and crimping tools.

If you can't reuse the connector, I would just buy a whole harness. I've carefully disassembled and cleaned several for reuse, leaving short pigtails of the old wire. They are designed to come apart, although age can be hard on the rubber/plastic bushing the pins/sockets are in. The tools are needed to crimp the pins/sockets and then insert them in the bushing, I wouldn't disturb those.

I work in aerospace, and needed a replacement connector for a trailer. I was friends with another engineer who helped me figure out the parts, and we had all the tools at work. Buying a whole replacement harness was still cheaper.
I feel ya there. I have been an A&P Mechanic for 40 years myself and mostly rotorcraft but I fully appreciate what you are saying. I think that my pins are soldered but will check it out,
Jim
 

tobyS

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I have replaced two jail high security system that used DC and the reason they failed was the connectors that made them "modular"....just plug together. I found a "boundary effect" between the wire and the multi pen connectors, eat away the copper wire and stop making contact. Most would just fall out, some stayed in and some still could pass a small current. I had to abandon the D.C and went to air with ac control.

My suggestion of omitting a multi pin connector, in favor of soldered wires, is because of seeing expensive failures. But I also understand the "original" aspects. Seem the suggestion of finding the entire harness by welder1 at 150 is a deal

I guess I'm being a bit hypocritical, I kept that part of the rear harness on mine, going to the passenger side control box now.
 
Last edited:

SCSG-G4

PSVB 3003
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Location
Lexington, South Carolina
There has been lots of discussion on wire harness replacement and I have a question.
I purchased a new front harness about a year ago. I fabricated my rear harness myself due to the weird high cost of this one with only 7 wires in it.
As most know there is a bulkhead connector in the center of the truck for replacement of the front or rear harness depending on the need at the time.
In TM 9-2320-361-20P Figure 61 sheet 1 of 2 there are three separate components to make up this 7 pin connector for the rear harness to connect to the front one.
7722322 bushing, 7722369 connector, and 7723308 nut.
Since I fabricated my own harness I obviously do not have the new connector that would come attached to a professionally fabricated part.
Does anyone have a source for this connector either in the three individual pieces or as an assembly.
I have my old one but the wiring in the harness is dated 1-69 so I will not be reusing that connector or any other sub-components of the old harness.
My rear harness is all 14 gage wire with Prestolite as the manufacture and while I do remember that is conforms to a Mil-Spec I do not have the wiring here with me
to list it for background information. My particular truck has a date of 04/1970 for acceptance so the harnesses are appropriate and original as installed by Kaiser-Jeep
during manufacture.
Any information would be greatly appreciated as I would like to add this to the front end of my harness.
Jim

jimm1009 here on S.S.
or
m1009jim@yahoo.com
You are talking about this connector? I pulled it off a deuce that we are scrapping.
 

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jimm1009

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Location
Louisville, KY
Check Eriks military parts, they have several connectors.
Thank you for the clue but I have checked with him and also Big Mike and a couple of others.
I think that I will check with one more source for new antique vehicle harnesses that states that they do military vehicle
harnesses too. If I fail then I will eliminate the connector and go with soldered connections and heat shrink and then
the best 3M tape I can find.
Jim
 

SCSG-G4

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Yes I am but I want to buy a new one. I do not want to use an old part anywhere in the system.
Jim
Best of luck to you finding a 'new' part. The rear wiring harness connector is an integral part of the wiring harness itself and it is unlikely to have ever been stocked outside of the level 5 depots (original manufacturer level for those not familiar with the military five tier maintenance structure).
 

NY Tom

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The connectors can be found here at MOUSER. The plug here for example.

That is not the right one per se but only an example of a 7 Pin x 1.250" connector.

You would need to measure the thread diameter to determine the shell size in 1/16th increments. So 1.25" is a 20 Shell.

Amphenol connector information can be found here.

You can use solder type pins and no special tools are required. It will take some research to figure it out. Probably under $100 is my guess for what you need..
 

tobyS

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Jim.. To get watertight on splice with shrink tube, coat it with black silicone, then shrink the cover or covers.
 
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