M35A2 suddenly won't start...

[Commander5993]

Hey all... just when I was finishing up on our M1008 truck (which had blown a head gasket...) now our deuce won't start, which is something we've never had a single issue with before in the last 6 years we've owned it. It usually starts right up almost as soon as you hit the start button.

We haven't driven it a lot in the last 3 years, (although we put about 5000+ miles on it 4-5 years ago). But my father tries to take it out for a drive at least once a month. But this time it has sat for about 3 months because he had been sick. The last time he drove it, it started up and ran just fine. But he went to start it the other day, and nothing.

Over the last two days, we've changed the primary and both secondary fuel filters, bled the system of air, charged the batteries, even drained the old fuel and put fresh in... nothing, not even a hit like it's trying to start... unless i spray a little "bad stuff" (starting fluid) at the air intake, then it will chug a bit, but thats it.

Since it sounds like it isn't getting any fuel, we just took the return line off coming from the driver side injectors, and there is no fuel coming out of that line while cranking the engine... I would have thought that there should be? Am I wrong?

However there is fuel returning to the tank, as with the ignition switch on, you can hear the in-tank pump running and also the return fuel pouring back into the tank.

Thought I would post and see if you guys had any other ideas of what could be the issue? Surely its something simple that we're just missing...

will post updates as we progress...

~Thanks All

 

[Commander5993]

just added a few things to my original post

 

[porkysplace]

Is the fuel rod moving in the IP ?
[h=1]How to remove the Fuel Shutoff Rod on the IP[/h]

 

[Commander5993]

Is the fuel rod moving in the IP ?
How to remove the Fuel Shutoff Rod on the IP

i don't know... haven't ever dug into the IP... was really hoping to avoid such... but I guess thats next...

 

[Commander5993]

oh great... "fixing" the pump could cause the engine to run away...
well, this is definitely a two person job...

 

[kc5mzd]

There is a cover plate on the side of the injector pump held on by a small screw. Inside there is a lever that can get stuck to the right. Just spray it down with penetrating oil and move it by hand to loosen it up. That should fix it. There is no disassembly of the injector pump or changing of any settings. Just remove a tin cover plate with the engine off. Free up the lever, reassemble and then start. Its a common problem when they have set for long periods of time.

 

[Commander5993]

Is the fuel rod moving in the IP ?
How to remove the Fuel Shutoff Rod on the IP

THANK YOU!!!! THANK YOU!!! THANK YOU!!!

After reading GP's thread that you linked, on how to take the stop plunger out the IP... I thought well, if its just stuck "a little bit", before I take all that apart, I wonder if I can gently tap on the IP with a hammer and knock it loose? So thats what I did, I tapped on the cover, the bolts that hold the IP on, and kindof all around it, then went to try to crank it again and she fired right up!!

So, now that we have it running, We're going to put in more fresh fuel, and add a Good Amount of some strong fuel cleaner (Power Service, seafoam, lucas, and added some MMM (marvel mystery oil) for added lubrication. Hopefully that will clean out the IP and etc, and won't have any further issues. If it ever does it again, I guess I'll have to refer back to GP's thread and take it apart and clean it the "right way".

However, this "hammer tap" method might also be really helpful for someone who is away from home, and the IP stop plunger gets stuck.

In any case, this is just yet another example of how great you guys are here on SS!!

THANKS AGAIN!

 

[JDToumanian]

Just FYI, Marvel Mystery Oil has been tested and shown to cause more wear to the fuel system than plain diesel fuel. The best lubricity / lowest wear and cleanest fuel system possible was achieved with straight biodiesel.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76.../177728-lubricity-additive-study-results.html

Regards,
Jon

 

[kc5mzd]

The area that needs to be cleaned is not directly exposed to the fuel anyway. At least he has a "fix" for now.

 

[m715mike]

There is a cover plate on the side of the injector pump held on by a small screw. Inside there is a lever that can get stuck to the right. Just spray it down with penetrating oil and move it by hand to loosen it up. That should fix it. There is no disassembly of the injector pump or changing of any settings. Just remove a tin cover plate with the engine off. Free up the lever, reassemble and then start. Its a common problem when they have set for long periods of time.

I had to take the cover off and inspect the lever on the side of the road once. It was quick and easy to inspect.

 

[glcaines]

You need to follow the directions in Post #6. Remove the cover and spray down with penetrating oil or you are likely to have a repeat problem. This is not hard to do.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I don't know that I would agree with that. Sure, it can't hurt, but some of the parts that sieze up, won't be effected by just spraying lube in there. The rod that rotates, sometimes HAS to come out/apart.

 

[Commander5993]

Just FYI, Marvel Mystery Oil has been tested and shown to cause more wear to the fuel system than plain diesel fuel. The best lubricity / lowest wear and cleanest fuel system possible was achieved with straight biodiesel.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76.../177728-lubricity-additive-study-results.html

Regards,
Jon

Hummm.... I could have sworn I saw where it was better... thanks for the link.
Don't have anywhere to get biodiesel around here, so guess I'll stick with 2-cycle oil. I had already bought some for that purpose anyway.

 

[Commander5993]

The area that needs to be cleaned is not directly exposed to the fuel anyway. At least he has a "fix" for now.

I had to take the cover off and inspect the lever on the side of the road once. It was quick and easy to inspect.

You need to follow the directions in Post #6. Remove the cover and spray down with penetrating oil or you are likely to have a repeat problem. This is not hard to do.

Yes, I know my tapping with a hammer isn't the right way to fix it. But it did at the very least tell me what the issue was with certainty. And it got the truck going at that moment.
And yes you may be right in the fact that fuel doesn't get to the parts that stuck. I was thinking it did because I thought it was bad fuel that had caused the problem. But I may be wrong. In any case the fuel system cleaner won't hurt, I'm sure the fuel system needed it anyway.

 

[Commander5993]

I don't know that I would agree with that. Sure, it can't hurt, but some of the parts that sieze up, won't be effected by just spraying lube in there. The rod that rotates, sometimes HAS to come out/apart.

Yeah, if it gets stuck again, I'm going to follow your guide and take it all apart and clean it right.
BTW Thanks for making that thread and all the photos

 

[gimpyrobb]

My pleasure, happy to help.

 

[Floridianson]

A sticking fuel control is not a good thing that is why when I shut down the engine I leave the cut off pulled out. If it's going to stick better stick in no fuel position that wide open. As said above don't think adding anything will help other than opening it up.

 

[JDToumanian]

Hummm.... I could have sworn I saw where it was better... thanks for the link.
Don't have anywhere to get biodiesel around here, so guess I'll stick with 2-cycle oil. I had already bought some for that purpose anyway.

I was surprised how poorly MM Oil performed in those tests, I used to put it in my old fuel injected Mercedes to keep the IP lubed... For that maybe it would perform better as I'm sure it's lubricity is better than gasoline, though probably still not as good as 2-stroke oil. I use 2-stroke oil in my deuce as well.

 

[Floridianson]

I like additives that add lubricity but also clean and raise cetane. My two cents better money spent. On the 915 I just got first thing I did was to add the whole bottle that treats 250 gallons to my full 80 gallon tank. I treat as recommended now per gallon.