M35A2 tires / wheel combo

[Mullaney]

Here is one (low-cost) option, using 3/4" hardware.....

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Wow!! That definitely has the dimensions.
Well Done @gringeltaube !

Anybody without Acrobat can see most of the image below...









(edited to show the entire drawing, as PNG file)

 

[gringeltaube]

Wow!! That definitely has the dimensions.
Well Done @gringeltaube !

Anybody without Acrobat can see most of the image below...

Thanks, hope it helps...

(I just edited your post to add the missing, lower portion of my drawing)
Actually any machinist should be able to make these adapters, having only that PDF file.

 

[7bdiver]

I got the first wheel put back together after I got home from work. Hoping to do one a day this week.

My main issue with the A3 rims was the turret valve stems. They're 3/8 npt pipes, and normal schrader replacements are 30-40 bucks each. F-that.

So what I did is cut the male threaded end off of the pipe and tap it internally to 1/4 npt. Shrader adapters are cheap. Plus, if the end gets snapped off, I can just replace the tip again. Cause that has happened, and taking an entire wheel apart because of the valve stem is shitay.

Now I'm thinking "what have I done?" That is a huge ass wheel.

 

[bprzyw]

I got the first wheel put back together after I got home from work. Hoping to do one a day this week.

My main issue with the A3 rims was the turret valve stems. They're 3/8 npt pipes, and normal schrader replacements are 30-40 bucks each. F-that.

So what I did is cut the male threaded end off of the pipe and tap it internally to 1/4 npt. Shrader adapters are cheap. Plus, if the end gets snapped off, I can just replace the tip again. Cause that has happened, and taking an entire wheel apart because of the valve stem is shitay.

Now I'm thinking "what have I done?" That is a huge ass wheel.

They’re are converter tips for them, like $5 each. Looking good, really good 7bdiver! And yes, they are HUGE!

 

[bprzyw]

Thanks, hope it helps...

(I just edited your post to add the missing, lower portion of my drawing)
Actually any machinist should be able to make these adapters, having only that PDF file.

Thank you Gringeltaube!!!!!

 

[bprzyw]

I know the weak point is the 6 lug, but is 3/4” bolts ok? Or should I go with the 1” bolts? Not trying to be really cheap, just safe. Thank you, Bernie

 

[gringeltaube]

I know the weak point is the 6 lug, but is 3/4” bolts ok? Or should I go with the 1” bolts? Not trying to be really cheap, just safe. Thank you, Bernie

The plate will deform or bend long before those 10 bolts rip out. But hey, use 1" bolts, if it makes you feel safer.

Just let's not forget: all these modifications are OK for "off road use only".......

 

[bprzyw]

Yea, I’ll be using 1/2” plate. So the “only” DOT approved wheel would be stock or A3 wheels, right?

 

[gringeltaube]

......... So the “only” DOT approved wheel would be stock or A3 wheels, right?

Your MRAP wheels have the DOT stamp, too. And you aren't modifying anything on the wheel itself....

 

[7bdiver]

The dodge is having the AC replaced, so I really hustled to get the wheels done last night. About 10:00 I took the truck down to fill up. Noticed the ride was a wee bit more bouncy. Not unballaced, just kinda springy, otherwise great. They've got 50psi in em. Any other recommendations welcome.

Brought er to work this morning, about a 20 mile trip on the freeway. Did 60 at 2200 rpm, egt's stayed at 800 (post turbo sensor) and was very happy. Tires appeared to be balanced pretty dang good, at least in the front for sure.

With my speedometer at 30mph, my phone said I was doing 37. At 50, was doing 60. I got exactly what I wanted, no more, no less.

At first, these things looked ridiculous huge, but now appear just dang nice. Here's a comparison pic. From the michelin 11R20's to the G20 15.5R20's

 

[7bdiver]

As for the difference between the two, I was honestly perfectly satisfied with the 11R20's singled out. Functionally, they're great, and ride very nicely. I only switched because a bud gave me a good deal on these A3 rims and I wanted another couple miles per hr. If I cant sell the old wheels, I could see myself going back to them during wintertime.

What I will say for sure is that what I thought was a very heavy wheel (the 11R20's), at somewhere around 300lbs, was eclipsed by these puppies at well over 400lbs each.

I'm 220lbs of pure manhood, and it took me two weeks to get this all done in my spare time. You had better have a real quality shovel to nudge these guys up onto the lugs. At this point, I have no aspirations of getting into 5ton country. I am pretty beat up after doing all this by hand in my driveway and all by myself.

 

[ToddJK]

The dodge is having the AC replaced, so I really hustled to get the wheels done last night. About 10:00 I took the truck down to fill up. Noticed the ride was a wee bit more bouncy. Not unballaced, just kinda springy, otherwise great. They've got 50psi in em. Any other recommendations welcome.

Brought er to work this morning, about a 20 mile trip on the freeway. Did 60 at 2200 rpm, egt's stayed at 800 (post turbo sensor) and was very happy. Tires appeared to be balanced pretty dang good, at least in the front for sure.

With my speedometer at 30mph, my phone said I was doing 37. At 50, was doing 60. I got exactly what I wanted, no more, no less.

At first, these things looked ridiculous huge, but now appear just dang nice. Here's a comparison pic. From the michelin 11R20's to the G20 15.5R20's

Looks like a nice truck! That's a nice cruising speed to RPM ratio too, I can still appreciate a stock truck for nostalgia, but the bigger wheels are definitely an improvement for cruising on the black top.

 

[Mullaney]

As for the difference between the two, I was honestly perfectly satisfied with the 11R20's singled out. Functionally, they're great, and ride very nicely. I only switched because a bud gave me a good deal on these A3 rims and I wanted another couple miles per hr. If I cant sell the old wheels, I could see myself going back to them during wintertime.

What I will say for sure is that what I thought was a very heavy wheel (the 11R20's), at somewhere around 300lbs, was eclipsed by these puppies at well over 400lbs each.

I'm 220lbs of pure manhood, and it took me two weeks to get this all done in my spare time. You had better have a real quality shovel to nudge these guys up onto the lugs. At this point, I have no aspirations of getting into 5ton country. I am pretty beat up after doing all this by hand in my driveway and all by myself.

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Tools are the trick for sure. That's how us old guys do that stuff with less effort

A shovel definitely works. A 4 ft pry bar works pretty well too. Having the truck jacked up to "just the right height" helps even more. A pallet jack is really nice if you have pavement and a helper.

If you have pavement and a Northern Tool ($68 close by, the Blackhawk Wheel Dolly will remove the tire, rim, drum, and hub spyder in one step.



This one in particular doesn't have front to back tilt, but it is particularly good for a quick swap to do a set of bearings and seals.

 

[bprzyw]

Exactly! Nice ride, nice speed, no humping on the truck to keep up to speed. They look awesome! I’ve got 5 Michelin 395/85r20 xzl’s. Currently looking for a 6th and they are all brand new, $1700.00. Waiting on adapter plates. Looking good, real good! Dang sexy truck!

 

[ToddJK]

Exactly! Nice ride, nice speed, no humping on the truck to keep up to speed. They look awesome! I’ve got 5 Michelin 395/85r20 xzl’s. Currently looking for a 6th and they are all brand new, $1700.00. Waiting on adapter plates. Looking good, real good! Dang sexy truck!

That's not too bad for new tires. These are with MRAP rims, correct?

 

[bprzyw]

I’ll be doing them by hand too. I’m 54, so bars, shovels a few extra hands will be needed.

 

[bprzyw]

That's not too bad for new tires. These are with MRAP rims, correct?

Yes sir! Steel MRAP 12 bolt rims with run flats in. New o rings, new valves.

 

[ToddJK]

Yes sir! Steel MRAP 12 bolt rims with run flats in. New o rings, new valves.

Sounds like you got a good deal. I heard the run flats make the ride slightly rougher due to vibration and such, but unless that tire explodes, imo, it's a good insurance policy that can get you home if need be.

 

[bprzyw]

Sounds like you got a good deal. I heard the run flats make the ride slightly rougher due to vibration and such, but unless that tire explodes, imo, it's a good insurance policy that can get you home if need be.

We shall see, I can pull them out if it’s too rough. I decided to not get the spare, only because who is going to change it, lol.

 

[ToddJK]

We shall see, I can pull them out if it’s too rough. I decided to not get the spare, only because who is going to change it, lol.

I don't think the run flats will be too rough honestly. I have them in mine. I can tell they are in there, but it's not enough to bother me in the slightest. I would still get a spare, at least the tire itself, maybe a used one. I wanted to get one but my old lady freaked out on me over $100 because nether of us are working since we just had the baby.
If you had a "spare", like you said, how would you or who would change it? Well, at 500#/tire, you'll need some type of lift or contraption to put in and remove the spare. If you have one at home, worst case scenario, you leave your truck on the side of the road and use a pick up with the help of a friend to bring the flat back home and put the spare tire on the rim and go back to the truck. That is if the run flat was destroyed. Eventually I'd like to put a winch, a small one in the back of my truck mounted to some steel brackets that can be bolted through the bed and ideally into the frame. Then taking out and putting those big tires in the back won't be as bad.