M35a2 White Smoke

[Floridianson]

Agreed myself I might add some kind of cleaner with clean Diesel fuel and triple dose it before I pulled injectors or worried about the IP. I would not worry about putting weight in the bed in less you have a crane handy and do it quick and fast. That motor will run fine at 2400 2500 rpm so go for a good drive with additives and wind all the gears out and keep the rpm up by highway speeds or back roads lower gears. Some say don't wind them up that high to shift but what is the difference between going down the highway at 2400-2500 rpm in 5th to try and keep up with traffic or shifting every gear at 2400-2500. I have never been afraid to wind out any Diesel and I never will. If I was afraid it will blow up then I would park it and plant flowers in the bed for the front yard. I have said it before when driving my 816 if I do not bump the governor on every shift the truck will fall on it's face. I got a chance to be in the passenger seat for 300 miles when I had my 915 recovered. Older person been in trucking long time and he owned the tractor trailer. Could shift gears with just one bump of the clutch and easy on the rpm up shifting as the truck had 400 HP. Cruse down the highway at the rpm where the torque and HP met. Been just about two years so forget what it was but the truck was able to do highway speeds at that RPM. Now when it came time to cross the mountains he hit the bottom of the hill doing 70 mph and RPM in the lower range. Got 1/4 way up the mountain and he is wondering why his 400 HP motor can not get the RPM up with out downshifting and can not even hold speed but dropping speed and still down shifting.

 

[WillWagner]

Here's my worth. In the videos, it almost sounds like it is popping, maybe in the intake, the exhaust sounds smooth. Pull the elbow from the turbo and have a listen. It still has the flame heater, could possibly have a leaking flame heater nozzle/solenoid. Try simple things first before disassembling. If the above check out ok, crack injector lines one by one to see if any, when taken out of the injection event, stop the smoke. The smoke is white/grey, so it is fuel related, too much at the wrong time. What are you using for go juice? I think I read that you put new fuel in it, but if you are using a mixture of diesel and WMO, ATF, Hyd fluid and have too much in it, the smoke will look like that too.

 

[rustystud]

You are not going 70mph at 2500 rpm.

Have yu tried a fuel addative or done filter maintence recently?

I was wondering about that statement too. Unless you have larger tires installed, going 70 mph at 2500 rpm is not physically possible with the gearing the deuce has. Do you have larger tires on your deuce ?

 

[rustystud]

I agree with all the posts that mentioned using additives, but if that doesn't work then check the injectors like I said. Really cleaning your injectors is like changing your spark-plugs in a gasoline engine. It should be done on a regular basis. At the transit agency it was done every 50,000 miles. Which meant every 4 to 6 months for our buses. Considering the average bus is driven 20 hours a day. Some of the newer Hybrids are driven 24/7 until the next regular maintenance schedule.

 

[LiveFreeOrDieTryn2B]

I looked at his video if he's running waste oil it will have more smoke. The temperature bcould be also making the fuel thicken up. I agree with everyone else check the simple stuff first.

 

[rustystud]

I looked at his video if he's running waste oil it will have more smoke. The temperature bcould be also making the fuel thicken up. I agree with everyone else check the simple stuff first.

But that doesn't account for the "popping" sound out the exhaust. Something is not right there. I'm sure it is something simple but it needs to be checked out.

 

[frank8003]

White smoke and performance and fuel. Since what it is We are trying to do is make them still running good in another 50 years these suggestions apply. Goto TM 9 2320 361 24 2 and study expendable parts in WP 0468 00 and mandatory parts replace in WP 0470 00.
How much fuel pressure is going to the primary filter?
Have the valves been adjusted?
The new low sulphur fuel one gets at the gas station has no lube for multifuel engine parts. Get some additives. Oh, it'll run OK, It'll run but the life of engine components will be foreshortened.
Never ever never put diesel engine crankcase drain oil into the fuel tank. Recycle it because there is NO Way to get all the soot out. That hard carbon will eat away at the perfect lapped fit of the plunger and the bore, circled red in attached . Don't want to have to replace that or the booster pump, even if one could really get a new tested one. and pictures for the General.

 

[Floridianson]

If the chemicals don't clear it then one of the injector tips are fouled would be my thought.

 

[WillWagner]

Rusty, I don't think its in the exh, look at the vid of the tailpipe, sounds smooth. The vid of it looking from the drivers front sounds like a popping noise going on, could just be the funky sounds videos pick up or add to things.

 

[rustystud]

Rusty, I don't think its in the exh, look at the vid of the tailpipe, sounds smooth. The vid of it looking from the drivers front sounds like a popping noise going on, could just be the funky sounds videos pick up or add to things.

It's hard for me to hear anymore. My left ear is almost totally deaf and the right one is trying to catch up ! I just heard a small pop-pop sound. Cannot tell where it is coming from though.
I still say just put some additives in and run it extremely hard up some good hills. If that doesn't clear it up then "pop" test the injectors.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Honestly, if you changed turbos, you'll need to retune it. They all have different characteristics, especially if you went from a D to a C turbo.

 

[WhoMe08721]

Hey guys,
Sorry for the long time before replying. So I have been checking all the thing you guys have been replying too and they where all checking out good. But yesterday, I when for a drive to drop my kid off at school and notice I could not hear the in tank fuel pump and lately the truck would only top out at 39mph. So when I got home I checked for 24v at the fuel pump and there was 24v. Next I check the fuse and it was good. I finally removed the in tank fuel pump and it dose not come on when power is supply to it but I did notice if I hit the pump hard with a object it come on for a hot min and then shout off. I just order a new one off line. The only thing I cant find is a (Fuel Tank Electric Pump Mounting Gasket). Dose any one know where I can get one or do I have to make my own.

 

[pjwest03]

Eriks or TNJ Murray. TNJ Murray has them in stock.

 

[frank8003]

If you going to do all that just put a parker pump in it with a proper new hose.
That will give a few more psi to the booster pump. Did you clean the primary and secondaries yet?

 

[WhoMe08721]

I order a parker pump and new fuel filters the other day. Will updated when it all comes in & I install them.

 

[WhoMe08721]

So today I replaced all the filters and the fuel pump. But NO improvement. Truck still Not running correct. Next I put a PSI gauge on the in tank fuel pump and got (+/-10psi). I also put a PSI gauge on the engine final fuel filter housing and got (+/- 8psi). Final I did the maximum no-load speed test in (Trouble shooting manual lds-465-1 Multifuel Engine Book) I got the following results 750rpm=45psi, 1200rpm=50psi, 1600rpm=57psi, 2000rpm=60psi, 2400rpm=50-70psi Bouncing Up & Down, 2600rpm=60psi. Attached are my test results. Thinking it might be a hairline crack in the fuel supply line. Did not like the Bouncing Up & Down in psi at 2,400rpm.

 

[WhoMe08721]

Also any ideas what would cause the fuel pressure fluctuates rapidly at 2400rpm.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Could be a bad booster pump on the injection pump. There is an in tank pump which you replaced that supplies up to 10psi, then when the fuel leaves the primary filter under the alt, it goes to the booster pump on the IP. It gets boosted up to 70psi at that pump.

At the input of the secondary filters, there is a "T" fitting. If pressure gets too high, it opens and sends fuel back to the fuel tank(if memory serves) maybe yours has a weak spring causing the pressure dump. I dont know what the release pressue should be though.

 

[rustystud]

The release pressure is suppose to be 60 psi. So that bouncing around at 2400 RPM is really weird since it settles down to 60 psi again at 2600 RPM. I would take the plug off the boost pump and see if there is any debris in there.

 

[Floridianson]

Could be a bad booster pump on the injection pump. There is an in tank pump which you replaced that supplies up to 10psi, then when the fuel leaves the primary filter under the alt, it goes to the booster pump on the IP. It gets boosted up to 70psi at that pump.
At the input of the secondary filters, there is a "T" fitting. If pressure gets too high, it opens and sends fuel back to the fuel tank(if memory serves) maybe yours has a weak spring causing the pressure dump. I dont know what the release pressue should be though.

The TM has a 60 psi minimum at 2600rpm so believe your close at 70 psi. The Trouble shooting manual has pressures showing 65 to 75 psi for the booster pump. Seems like release would be not much more than the booster could make. I would not worry about the bounce as you are making the min. at 2600rpm and don't believe it is you unburnt fuel problem. Pull injectors.