NDRoughneck
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m35a2c camper conversion
- Thread starter NDRoughneck
- Start date
- 3,256
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Hey, the price appears to have been right! The shorter box gives you 2ft of ledge at the end of the box which is cool to step out and then onto a ladder. You can even do a generator box on that ledge and storage for fuel etc.
Not sure about the above-cab area, simply because of structural (you are going to cut the box and weld and fabricate the above-cab area?). The 8ft height of the box sure gives you ample headroom and a relatively high above-cab space!
I think the biggest question is whether you want the box to be a self-contained unit (meaning: it can be lifted off in its entirety and the truck remains "stock", all the things such as water tanks etc. are part of the box, not the truck) or do you want to integrate the systems with the truck chassis.
Not sure about the above-cab area, simply because of structural (you are going to cut the box and weld and fabricate the above-cab area?). The 8ft height of the box sure gives you ample headroom and a relatively high above-cab space!
I think the biggest question is whether you want the box to be a self-contained unit (meaning: it can be lifted off in its entirety and the truck remains "stock", all the things such as water tanks etc. are part of the box, not the truck) or do you want to integrate the systems with the truck chassis.
NDRoughneck
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Because of the honkin HVAC unit on the front there is already some steel reinforcement at the front of the box.
I'll be using 1x1 1/2 steel to make a cage, then skin the exterior in FRP, add some 1 1/2" foam insulation and trim the inside with
some light weight plywood and maybe cover in some automotive carpet. Fingers crossed It should weigh less than the unit already on the front.
Id like to retain the stock bed, so for now I'll figure a way to attach it without butchering it up. We plan to move to Texas soon,
and when we settle down there Id like to come up with a rack to slide it onto, I'm just trying to avoid extra stuff to move for now.
+1 on the rear porch, I figured it'd also make a nice spot to put some goodies. Thanks Eric.
I'll be using 1x1 1/2 steel to make a cage, then skin the exterior in FRP, add some 1 1/2" foam insulation and trim the inside with
some light weight plywood and maybe cover in some automotive carpet. Fingers crossed It should weigh less than the unit already on the front.
Id like to retain the stock bed, so for now I'll figure a way to attach it without butchering it up. We plan to move to Texas soon,
and when we settle down there Id like to come up with a rack to slide it onto, I'm just trying to avoid extra stuff to move for now.
+1 on the rear porch, I figured it'd also make a nice spot to put some goodies. Thanks Eric.
- 806
- 831
- 93
- Location
- W.WA
I'm also planning on making my deuce into a super-RV.
Think about maybe a place to put a spare tire (and a way to get it down). I plan a rack behind the passenger side and a portable crane to get the tire up/down. And if you're gonna be carrying a spare tire, you need a little room set aside to carry the tools needed to change a tire, though I suppose you could always have your rig towed to someplace and they could change it for you - you'd still want to have a spare handy in case they couldn't fix your tire. Those big tires are just too expensive to rely on buying one in a pinch.
Besides solar, I thought I'd also hook up a retractable wind generation system. There are several out there marketed to RV owners, though I plan on going for something a little bigger.
If you wanted to get a little ambitious you could put a custom rack underneath that contained water tanks (black, grey, clean), or go with a waterless toilet (little pricey though) and eliminate the black water tank.
Think about maybe a place to put a spare tire (and a way to get it down). I plan a rack behind the passenger side and a portable crane to get the tire up/down. And if you're gonna be carrying a spare tire, you need a little room set aside to carry the tools needed to change a tire, though I suppose you could always have your rig towed to someplace and they could change it for you - you'd still want to have a spare handy in case they couldn't fix your tire. Those big tires are just too expensive to rely on buying one in a pinch.
Besides solar, I thought I'd also hook up a retractable wind generation system. There are several out there marketed to RV owners, though I plan on going for something a little bigger.
If you wanted to get a little ambitious you could put a custom rack underneath that contained water tanks (black, grey, clean), or go with a waterless toilet (little pricey though) and eliminate the black water tank.
NDRoughneck
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Good ideas, the spare tire issue is a real concern. The spare wheel and tire combo 300+ lbs demands a lift somehow & somewhere. I have some nice block and tackle left over from my sailboat that would do the lifting, Id just need to sort out where to mount an arm.
In my search for solar panel systems, I keep seeing wind generation, it makes sense to have more than one method of harvesting power. So many days here no sun but the wind is relentless, especially at night when you could be taxing the batterys to their limit. So thats something for me to take a closer look at.
Thanks for the ideas, good luck on your build. Eric
In my search for solar panel systems, I keep seeing wind generation, it makes sense to have more than one method of harvesting power. So many days here no sun but the wind is relentless, especially at night when you could be taxing the batterys to their limit. So thats something for me to take a closer look at.
Thanks for the ideas, good luck on your build. Eric
- 806
- 831
- 93
- Location
- W.WA
How are you doing on weight? Don't forget that a gallon of water weighs 8 lbs. Liquid weight can add up fast.
Lithium batteries are expensive but really light. Try a search for DIY Powerwall.
A lot depends on how long you plan to stay away from civilization at any given time. Oh yeah, and if you really plan on getting away from it all, I'd recommend a satellite phone.
Lithium batteries are expensive but really light. Try a search for DIY Powerwall.
A lot depends on how long you plan to stay away from civilization at any given time. Oh yeah, and if you really plan on getting away from it all, I'd recommend a satellite phone.
NDRoughneck
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As far as weight, the box is approximately 1,000lb. Id estimate the interior when finished at an additional 600-800lbs. I'm figuring about 30 gallons of drinking water for 240lbs. So i should have enough wiggle rooom to stay under the 5k weight.
This morning I looked into the DIY Powerwall, thats an interesting concept. Id never thought about building my own battery bank, and there might be some affordable options when the time comes. I run a electric LIPO, 1/8 scale 4wd rc car, and appreciate the high output and long run times that are achievable with this technology.
Also looked into wind generators, and im starting to think a 50/50 solar/wind would be the way to go.
This morning I looked into the DIY Powerwall, thats an interesting concept. Id never thought about building my own battery bank, and there might be some affordable options when the time comes. I run a electric LIPO, 1/8 scale 4wd rc car, and appreciate the high output and long run times that are achievable with this technology.
Also looked into wind generators, and im starting to think a 50/50 solar/wind would be the way to go.
- 806
- 831
- 93
- Location
- W.WA
I was thinking, when I build mine of putting 2 solar panels on the roof and rigging up some sort of portable sliding cover on the other side of the roof that I can pull over the panels so I can then set up some deck chairs. Have a rope railing attached to telescoping anchors at each corner. Attach a bar fridge into the ceiling so you open a hatch from above and reach into it.
NDRoughneck
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Ok guys, a little progress on the camper conversion. Borrowed a crane and lifted the HVAC off.
Because the box was wider than my bed, and I really wanted the drop sides back on.
I decided to narrow the fiberglass box. I removed 9 1/8" from the entire passenger side. Due to the location of the window I couldnt remove any more material.
As it sits, I think It'll sit within the sides now. After that was done, I removed 4" from the bottom of the walls all the way around. Two reasons for this,
There was a puncture that wouldve been a pain to repair, and all the 3/8" lag bolt holes around the bottom were in pretty bad shape and mostly stripped out.
So now it sits 4" lower & narrowed about 9". I think it'll look more like it belongs on the truck after the sides are back on.
Before..
.
After.
.
.
More heavy rain com coming. But Ive got 4 days off this weekend, so i should be able to get alot done on the over cab sleeper.
Because the box was wider than my bed, and I really wanted the drop sides back on.
I decided to narrow the fiberglass box. I removed 9 1/8" from the entire passenger side. Due to the location of the window I couldnt remove any more material.
As it sits, I think It'll sit within the sides now. After that was done, I removed 4" from the bottom of the walls all the way around. Two reasons for this,
There was a puncture that wouldve been a pain to repair, and all the 3/8" lag bolt holes around the bottom were in pretty bad shape and mostly stripped out.
So now it sits 4" lower & narrowed about 9". I think it'll look more like it belongs on the truck after the sides are back on.
Before..
.After.
.
.
More heavy rain com coming. But Ive got 4 days off this weekend, so i should be able to get alot done on the over cab sleeper.
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