M35A3 CTIS Hub Seal Retainer

[glcaines]

That would be great if i could find the **** TM, I have about 18 of these things and can't figure out which one and where it's pertinent! LOL

Thank you again. I was wondering if the black RTV was factory or a grunt mechanics fun. Where did you get "right stuff"?

Okay found the TM I relabeled it found it under the wheel section.


Might explain why mines leaking, there was no rtv on 1. Apply a thin layer of adhesive to counterbore ledge of inner bearing cup (16) and outer bearing cup (1).

Terry McClanahan is the one that put me on to using Right Stuff, it it's really good. Terry is absolutely an expert at everything A3. I found it at NAPA.

 

[michaelpilot1]

I used a high moly content wheel bearing grease. 1K miles on the repack so far, no apparent play in the bearings, this summer I am going to take them back apart to see how the inner seal is holding.

 

[trukhead]

I used a high moly content wheel bearing grease. 1K miles on the repack so far, no apparent play in the bearings, this summer I am going to take them back apart to see how the inner seal is holding.

Thanks for your conducting your repack experiment. I was hoping to service my A3 bearings should they need service.

I have a spare A3 rear axle that I intended to remove the bearings and seals without damage to keep as spares for reuse. Do you think removing them intact and functional is possible?

 

[michaelpilot1]

I depends on there condition, mine appeared to have been removed before and had some dents in the metal of the seal. When the army folks reassembled them they also improperly adjusted the wheel bearings a little loose and caused the air seal to wear on the bearing a little. The air seal holder that was damaged in glcain's bearing will be the issue, you will have to fashion a tool to press or drive the outer race out and not damage the holder. It's not such an issue for me since I dissabled the CTIS on mine so the air seal just has to keep the grease in the bearing and not hold air pressure.
Let me know how it works out.

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

Terry McClanahan is the one that put me on to using Right Stuff, it it's really good. Terry is absolutely an expert at everything A3. I found it at NAPA.

Thanks. I happened to stop at Oreilly's to pick up some brass punches to drive the race back into the hub and low and behold they had it. Messy stuff! I put a bit too much on the race to put the new retainer on, spent like 20 minutes and a roll of cloth to get the extra that squirted out.....

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

I depends on there condition, mine appeared to have been removed before and had some dents in the metal of the seal. When the army folks reassembled them they also improperly adjusted the wheel bearings a little loose and caused the air seal to wear on the bearing a little. The air seal holder that was damaged in glcain's bearing will be the issue, you will have to fashion a tool to press or drive the outer race out and not damage the holder. It's not such an issue for me since I dissabled the CTIS on mine so the air seal just has to keep the grease in the bearing and not hold air pressure.
Let me know how it works out.

The TM actually says the retainer will be destroyed removing the race from the hub. I can see that, there's really nowhere to drive but on the retainer to drive the race out.

 

[motomacguyver]

I found out that the quad seal retainers for a humvee have the same NSN # and found them cheaper on E-b@y.

ALL of the 3 inch axle nuts on mine were not even close to the correct torque, resulting in damage to two of the quad seal retainers. (It makes the retainer rub against the race of the bearing, leaving chunks of the retainer metal on the harder bearing races)

Make sure you polish the galling (chunks) off of the bearings or the new seals won't last long.

IIRCC. The torque is 50 ft/lbs, which seems like a lot, however, my axels do not get hot after extended driving at speed with them at this spec.

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

I found out that the quad seal retainers for a humvee have the same NSN # and found them cheaper on E-b@y.

.

That's wierd... I sent a private message to Trukhead earlier pointing that out.

 

[319]

I found out that the quad seal retainers for a humvee have the same NSN # and found them cheaper on E-b@y.

ALL of the 3-1/2 inch axle nuts on mine were not even close to the correct torque, resulting in damage to two of the quad seal retainers. (It makes the retainer rub against the race of the bearing, leaving chunks of the retainer metal on the harder bearing races)

Make sure you polish the galling (chunks) off of the bearings or the new seals won't last long.

IIRCC. The torque is 50 ft/lbs, which seems like a lot, however, my axels do not get hot after extended driving at speed with them at this spec.

The A3 bearing nuts are 3", and i've found it common that they are not torqued properly, 50ft lbs (then backed off 1/16th - 1/4" turn) for the inner and 100-200ft lbs for the outer. I've found chisel marks on mine.

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

Anybody have a shot of the outer bearing race fully seated in the hub? I'm not sure I've driven mine far enough in. I've got it in about even with the angle part of the hub, Is it supposed to be there or further in? I've beat my brass drifts terribly!

 

[glcaines]

Anybody have a shot of the outer bearing race fully seated in the hub? I'm not sure I've driven mine far enough in. I've got it in about even with the angle part of the hub, Is it supposed to be there or further in? I've beat my brass drifts terribly!

You can usually tell if the races are driven in all the way by the sound made when you hit the drift with the hammer. When in all the way, the sound changes from a dull ringing sound to a higher pitched bell like sound. The races should drive in easily and when the race stops moving you're in all the way.

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

Think I got it. Just waiting on some orings and new outer axle seal and see if this fixes my axle venting or have to pull the opposite side too.