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M35a3 overcharging

SRB1976

Member
317
9
18
Location
Hanna, Wyoming
My original alternator went out on my M35a3 due to bearing failure. Instead of spending over 500.00 for an oem one, I decided to install the AC Delco 27si series alternator using the bracket kit from tmamerica. The first 27si lasted about a week and started way overcharging. I figured I got a defective one and purchased a second one from O'reily auto parts and about an hour later the new one did the same thing:evil: Both alternators were very hot, almost too hot to touch. It looks like they might be overheating. I'm not sure what to do or what to look for.
 

cattlerepairman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Can you show us how the alternator is wired up to the truck? The alternator has a sensing input that tells the regulator how much charge current is required. Others will chime in but usually it is the wire going to the "S" post on the alternator.
A new out-of-the-box alternator overcharging may mean that the built in regulator has no idea it is supposed to ramp down the charging current. I'd start with the input it gets.

Here is a TSB from Prestolite on alternator wiring: http://www.prestolite.com/literature/tech/alts/TSB-1057_Universal_alternator_wiring.pdf
 
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SRB1976

Member
317
9
18
Location
Hanna, Wyoming
Can you show us how the alternator is wired up to the truck? The alternator has a sensing input that tells the regulator how much charge current is required. Others will chime in but usually it is the wire going to the "S" post on the alternator.
A new out-of-the-box alternator overcharging may mean that the built in regulator has no idea it is supposed to ramp down the charging current. I'd start with the input it gets.

Here is a TSB from Prestolite on alternator wiring: http://www.prestolite.com/literature/tech/alts/TSB-1057_Universal_alternator_wiring.pdf
P6130024.jpg
 

dmetalmiki

Well-known member
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Location
London England
I must be missing a trick here..(as) there should only be one wire from the ignition switch to the sensing terminal on a self regulating alternator. (and the Heavy charging wire to the starter motor input,) or battery positive. Others with more (certain) knowledge hopefully will inform you.
 

Tow4

Well-known member
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Location
Orlando, FL
That is a one wire alternator that has no provision for external voltage sense. If both alternators failed the same it makes me think either they are not 24 volt alternators (unlikely), there's a B+ or B- connection problem that is causing the alternator to have a series of load dumps which will cause the regulator to fail, or the batteries are discharged. Alternators don't like high output at low rpm because the cooling air air flow will be low.
 

SRB1976

Member
317
9
18
Location
Hanna, Wyoming
I hooked up two wires to the battery side of the alternator. One is hot and one isn't. Only the hot wire connects to the + side correct? The other wire may be a ground but i'm not sure. It has no power at all. I hope I didn't fry something:sad:
 

Tow4

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,097
647
113
Location
Orlando, FL
I hooked up two wires to the battery side of the alternator. One is hot and one isn't. Only the hot wire connects to the + side correct? The other wire may be a ground but i'm not sure. It has no power at all. I hope I didn't fry something:sad:
You should stop and figure out what the wires are before you burn up your electrical system. If you don't know how to determine what the wires are, find someone local to help you. Diagnosing problems over the internet is next to impossible if the person asking for help can not accurately describe it.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,298
3,074
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
I hooked up two wires to the battery side of the alternator. One is hot and one isn't. Only the hot wire connects to the + side correct? The other wire may be a ground but i'm not sure. It has no power at all. I hope I didn't fry something:sad:
That second wire could be your ignition wire. It has power after you turn on the master switch. Make sure you have a proper ground wire and that the wires you are installing are what you think they are ! If you installed that one wire to ground and it actually is the ignition wire you would fry your system fast !
 

SRB1976

Member
317
9
18
Location
Hanna, Wyoming
That second wire could be your ignition wire. It has power after you turn on the master switch. Make sure you have a proper ground wire and that the wires you are installing are what you think they are ! If you installed that one wire to ground and it actually is the ignition wire you would fry your system fast !
That wire has no power at all, even with the switch on. The truck seems to be running fine except it'll start to overcharge when the engine temp gets about 160

I found out that wire is the STE/ICE power lead. Good ole TMs
 
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