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M35A3 Owners unite

Docuscg

Member
51
0
6
Location
Wilmington, NC
If I recall , the trans ran up to 225-250 when in slow traffic, then dropped to around 190 - 200 driving 45-48 mph. I hope by changing to Dex III the temp will drop.
 

AceHigh

Well-known member
2,175
30
48
Location
Princeton WV Lake City FL
No, sorry. Of course, I don't even remember breakfast today. :)

I was able to get the threads out by sticking a knife in and twisting it. Just matched those up. It is a hex head brass plug. Sorry I can't help more. BTW Napa carries it online. I found it and tried to get my local NAPA to order it but no joy.
 
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Thunder in NWOR

New member
130
0
0
Location
Northwest Oregon
I put over 3M on my -a3 this past month.
3 days at 500 miles, 2 days over 400 miles, 3 days over 200 miles
4 days of that was mid to upper 90 degrees outside; other days were upper 80s.
2 days of significant climbing (Rockies and Cascades)
Never exceeded 45 MPH or 2500 rpm indicated on gages (tried to travel 42 and 2400)
My truck now has 6400 miles on odometer.
Still has original (as picked up from GL) fluids in engine and trans.
On trip - engine temp never exceeded 210 and trans never got near the 200 mark on gages (indicated)
Shifiting is great.

There is no need I can see to swap out Cat brand motoroil for other fluids in either the engine or trans.
And yes, I plan to drive the -a3 an anticipated 10m miles in 2012.
(Can find nothing in Allison OM1334EN and MT1321EN, nor talking to trusted Allison rep to convince me to swap tans oil)

Yup - and that's just my 2 cents....
Mark

[PS - friend put on over 12M this past year on his -a3 of hard use, and has no plans to change out trans motor oil either]
 

ClarkeF

Member
206
5
18
Location
Hestand, KY
Any one have any tips for disassembling and reassembling the two-piece wheels?

My left front and my spare keep going flat. I've pulled the CTIS lines on the wheel and replaced the plumbing with a schrader valve, so it isn't my CTIS plumbing. I know. Have a bad seal in the axle on that corner though, something to address later.

Anyway, I'm interested in taking the wheel apart and resealing the two halves. Looking for tips and tricks..

Cheers,

Clarke
 

AceHigh

Well-known member
2,175
30
48
Location
Princeton WV Lake City FL
Clarke, the guys on M35A3.net (Mike and Rodman) perfected a relatively easy way to do it with an engine hoist. The O rings are around and not too expensive. I think the O rings and wheels are rated at no more than maybe 65 psi.
 

EXITNOONE

Member
137
3
18
Location
LOS ANGELES, CA
THUNDER- thanks for the detailed temp feedback on your drives.

i was running at 50-55mph on highway, 2550 rpm. with heavy city stop and go before and after.
that may explain my higher temps... i'm also a lead foot.
my temps seem to stay at 270-275 consistent.
 

sierra117

Member
188
1
18
Location
Isanti, MN
Any of you guys know what could be wrong with my a3 I was driving along and it just died it still cranks, luckly i was not far from the house and was towed by another vehicle any ideas would be helpful
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,912
2,586
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
The first thing to do is change the fuel filter. The filter is a CAT 7E9783. After changing the filter, open the drain on the water separator. While someone cranks the engine, check to see if fuel is expelled from the drain. If so, this eliminates the fuel pump, leaving the IP as a potential problem. Sometimes the drain is plugged up, so be ready to rod it out with a piece of wire until it drains properly. If you have a good ether bottle installed, you can help start the engine with a couple shots of ether.
 
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