M35A3 Owners unite

[mpokorney]

If you remove the CTIS, you can switch over to A2 bearings. Actually, there's an "Equipment Company" in Memphis that sells conversion kits...

Pull the bearing out and compare it to a Duece brg. I was told the difference between the two was a keyway machined in the inner race to allow air passage to pump tire. A3 trucks where a cheap modernization of the original Duece. My hunch is the Duece bearing will work if you are not using the fail-able CTIS system.
Pete

I'm am going to keep my CTIS as it works perfectly. Im not at the point to rip it out yet.

 

[michaelpilot1]

A3 to A2 bearing conversion

Does anyone know if you remove the CTIS can you use A2 bearings or do you still have to hunt for the expensive A3 bearings?

The A2 bearing conversion kits are available at Memphis Equipment Co.(great service dept and fast shipping) in Tennessee the rear bearings are a remove CTIS air manifold and install new A2 bearings affair. The fronts bearins require the replacement of the A3 style spindle with the A2 spindle. All related hubs need the air fittings plugged as well as the hollow wheel studs replaced. Overall not to big of a job with and overall price just over 1K$ and you end up with inexpensive to replace and good track record bearings. You just cant keep the CTIS system since the air for the tires has to travel through the inner bearing race recesses.

 

[the buddah]

the A2 hubs are the same as the A3s the spindles are diff so yes both lol

 

[Bigjer]

Few questions for fellow A3 owners

I am a new owners and want to get everything I need together for my PM project so I am hoping for a little help on a few item.
What size socket do I need to get the nuts off to tear down and repack the bearings?
I think I need to junk my CTiS system, can I just install schrader cores in the valve stems after I remove the CTIS valve?
After I remove the CTIS is does the counter weight need to be removed as well? If so can I just deflate the tire without breaking the tire down. I am planning to eventually change over to 395's in the future but want to leave breaking the wheel down for a later task. I have enough to do as is trying to do everything else right now.
Thanks

 

[the buddah]

if you are doing away with the ctis behind the hub there is a brass set up that you should remove and the hollow bolt as well a small brass cap you should use to plug the hub i feel the air that goes thru the hub is a bad ideal as the air and moisture gets in there and thats why that system does not work and yes remove the weight from the front as it is not good for the wheel bearings as well not sure the size if the socket let you know tomorow if you still need it

 

[the buddah]

front end

my front end the outer bearing is now a perm part of the spindel now the put together begins then 5 more

 

[319]

I am a new owners and want to get everything I need together for my PM project so I am hoping for a little help on a few item.
What size socket do I need to get the nuts off to tear down and repack the bearings?
I think I need to junk my CTiS system, can I just install schrader cores in the valve stems after I remove the CTIS valve?
After I remove the CTIS is does the counter weight need to be removed as well? If so can I just deflate the tire without breaking the tire down. I am planning to eventually change over to 395's in the future but want to leave breaking the wheel down for a later task. I have enough to do as is trying to do everything else right now.
Thanks

I've done this to mine.
You can use the valve stem that is in the CTIS valve, but you'll need a 3/8"Male NPT X 1/8" Female NPT adapter. You'll need to deflate the tire to install the valve and remove the weight at the same time. Do not need to break the tire down. Make sure the tire is off the ground when you deflate it.

Bearing nut socket is a 3". I think 319 has them in the classifieds for a very reasonable price.

 

[Deuce007]

Today I would like to add some Marvel Mystery oil to the air lines in my m35a3. I want to put in the air line that is hooked up to the compressor so that it goes through as many hoses as possible but would that cause any problems with the CTIS and do I need to worry about it going through the air dryer? Is there a better place to add it?

 

[AceHigh]

It will screw up the air dryer and the CTIS manifold.

 

[glcaines]

Today I would like to add some Marvel Mystery oil to the air lines in my m35a3. I want to put in the air line that is hooked up to the compressor so that it goes through as many hoses as possible but would that cause any problems with the CTIS and do I need to worry about it going through the air dryer? Is there a better place to add it?

Don't do it! As AceHigh said, it will screw up your air dryer and CTIS manifold. Not only that, but there will be residual oil in your pneumatic system that will continue to contaminate the dryer and manifold replacements. The only place I would recommend adding MMO or air tool oil is into the inlet side of the actuator for the air assisted steering. It will do some good there.

 

[rwoods]

I've done this to mine.
You can use the valve stem that is in the CTIS valve, but you'll need a 3/8"Male NPT X 1/8" Female NPT adapter. You'll need to deflate the tire to install the valve and remove the weight at the same time. Do not need to break the tire down. Make sure the tire is off the ground when you deflate it.

Bearing nut socket is a 3". I think 319 has them in the classifieds for a very reasonable price.

With respect to the stems, if you prefer them straight as opposed to angled as shown you simply need a 3/8" female to 1/8" female brass adapter and a valve stem. You can find all the parts at either an auto parts store or a building supply store. The valve stems at your auto parts store are sold as an air compressor tank fitting. You will find them in a building supply store in the same section or in the well pump section. If you are going straight you should pick the short ones if you have a choice as the longer ones are more vulnerable to damage. Ron

 

[319]

With respect to the stems, if you prefer them straight as opposed to angled as shown you simply need a 3/8" female to 1/8" female brass adapter and a valve stem. You can find all the parts at either an auto parts store or a building supply store. The valve stems at your auto parts store are sold as an air compressor tank fitting. You will find them in a building supply store in the same section or in the well pump section. If you are going straight you should pick the short ones if you have a choice as the longer ones are more vulnerable to damage. Ron

I used the 3/8M X 1/4F and 1/4M X 1/8F adapters because no one had 3/8M x 1/8F adapters on hand. Don't know why, but I prefer the stem to be at a right angle rather than straight. The CTIS valve stems are short so you can reuse them, and they appear to be stainless steel.

 

[Deuce007]

Don't do it! As AceHigh said, it will screw up your air dryer and CTIS manifold. Not only that, but there will be residual oil in your pneumatic system that will continue to contaminate the dryer and manifold replacements. The only place I would recommend adding MMO or air tool oil is into the inlet side of the actuator for the air assisted steering. It will do some good there.

OK, I am glad you and Ace spoke up otherwise it sounds like I would have been in some trouble. Thanks guys

 

[Hoefler]

I took off the hose that supplies compressed air to top of actuator pitman arm. Filled it up with mystery oil. Made my steering much better. I did experience an issue with the pressure regulator just inside the frame when compressed air is supplied to pitman arm. The regulator had a leak. Took it off and plumbed direct without the regulator. Steering is better still. The regulators on all my A3's are set for full pressure. It does seems the ports and regulator are on the small side for flow. Without it, flow is less impeded.
Pete

 

[rwoods]

I used the 3/8M X 1/4F and 1/4M X 1/8F adapters because no one had 3/8M x 1/8F adapters on hand. Don't know why, but I prefer the stem to be at a right angle rather than straight. The CTIS valve stems are short so you can reuse them, and they appear to be stainless steel.

Others here have done the same as you. I kept my CTIS but made straight adapters to use when having my tires changed as all the plumbing intimidated the tire shop. Can't remember whether the fittings were just cheaper or what but there was some reason at the time. I tried unsucessfully to find a 1/4" female to 1/8" male adapter I needed today for an air line. Sometimes there doesn't seem to be much rhyme or reason to what the big box stores stock and don't stock. Try finding a 12/24 machine screw on a Saturday ; the deuce door uses several - I finally just borrowed some from my chainsaw parts. Ron

 

[rvnlrrp]

Been working on my son's A3 and have learned lots from you guys. What to do and how to really screw thing up if not careful. Biggest issue was crappy fuel and stuck check valve on the return line. got that fixed and she runs good. Now got to learn about the air/compressor system. Seems the drivers side may have some sort of blockage as the CTIS doesn't inflate the tires on that side and the rear air line for trailer hook up does not supply air when the valve in opened.

Again, thanks for you advice.

 

[319]

Been working on my son's A3 and have learned lots from you guys. What to do and how to really screw thing up if not careful. Biggest issue was crappy fuel and stuck check valve on the return line. got that fixed and she runs good. Now got to learn about the air/compressor system. Seems the drivers side may have some sort of blockage as the CTIS doesn't inflate the tires on that side and the rear air line for trailer hook up does not supply air when the valve in opened.

Again, thanks for you advice.

That's odd, because each axle has it's own airline. What does your control head show when the unit is turned on? Hopefully it's something simple, but your son will have to decide whether or not he wants to spend your time and $$ to fix the system.
Do you get any water or snot when you drain the tanks? May need the dryer serviced also. NAPA has the kits, about $130.

 

[rvnlrrp]

Been working on my son's A3 and have learned lots from you guys. What to do and how to really screw thing up if not careful. Biggest issue was crappy fuel and stuck check valve on the return line. got that fixed and she runs good. Now got to learn about the air/compressor system. Seems the drivers side may have some sort of blockage as the CTIS doesn't inflate the tires on that side and the rear air line for trailer hook up does not supply air when the valve in opened.

Again, thanks for you advice.

 

[AceHigh]

Rvnlrrp,welcome to the site. The drivers side rear air line for the trailer is not active till you push the brake pedal, and even then there is a quarter turn valve behind the gladhand. The passenger side gladhand should have 100 to 120 psi all the time the air system is up.

The CTIS just has 3 lines, one to each axle, so any problem on the one side would have to be wheel related at each axle. Kind of strange. Good luck on solving the issues!

 

[319]

Others here have done the same as you. I kept my CTIS but made straight adapters to use when having my tires changed as all the plumbing intimidated the tire shop. Can't remember whether the fittings were just cheaper or what but there was some reason at the time. I tried unsucessfully to find a 1/4" female to 1/8" male adapter I needed today for an air line. Sometimes there doesn't seem to be much rhyme or reason to what the big box stores stock and don't stock. Try finding a 12/24 machine screw on a Saturday ; the deuce door uses several - I finally just borrowed some from my chainsaw parts. Ron

I was just thinking.......... (insert lightning bolts here..), and i'm begining to like this idea. Breaking the tire down, cutting the 3/8" pipe shorter, rethreading it, and then install the 3/8"F x 1/8"F adapter with the valve, this way it would not stick out so far, and without the elbow, it would not be likely to snag braches, small children, animals, or Volkswagens.