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M35A3 Owners unite

Deuce007

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North Dakota
I am hoping to break down some more tires on my a3 this winter and since I am going to be taking them apart anyway do you guys think that it would be a good idea to remove the beadlock and scoop out all of the slime tubeless tire sealant? In another post I made, SS members agreed that putting that stuff in there might gum up the CTIS. It hasn't yet but I want to make sure that it never will.
 

BIGDDV

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webster, tx
Make sure you replace the o-rings between the wheel halves. we had to clean rust from the bead area and o-ring groove. bought some beadsealer from oreilly auto parts and painted the bead and oring groove. no more leaks!
 

Deuce007

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Location
North Dakota
Make sure you replace the o-rings between the wheel halves. we had to clean rust from the bead area and o-ring groove. bought some beadsealer from oreilly auto parts and painted the bead and oring groove. no more leaks!
I will make sure that I get a new o-ring but what kind of lube do you recommend on the bead and o-ring? I read somewhere to use sil-glyde paste from Napa.
 
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glcaines

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Hiawassee, Georgia
You need to make sure you clean out all the slime from inside the tire, off of the beadlock and the wheel halves. The TM states not to put anything on the o-rings or the valve stem grommet. I've done several A3 wheels and never used any sealant and I don't have leaks. Make certain that you replace both the valve stem grommets and the brass nut as well as the O-rings. The brass nut needs to be torqued to 45 - 60 Lb-Ft and they are normally already messed up and rounded off by the military. Erik's sells both the nuts and grommets. Those grommets are what normally leak air, not the O-rins.
 
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Deuce007

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North Dakota
What do you guys recommend is the best way to get the beadlock out of the tire? Does it work best to just try and pry it out? I know that to put it back in requires a ratchet strap but I don't know how remove it properly.
 

YOUNG GUN

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Sherwood, Oregon
What do you guys recommend is the best way to get the beadlock out of the tire? Does it work best to just try and pry it out? I know that to put it back in requires a ratchet strap but I don't know how remove it properly.
Tire lube and a good boot stomp getting it in, tire lube and grab on and pull to get them out.
That's how I do it anyways.
 

FASTNOVA

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Location
Los Angeles,Ca
I put a ratchet strap then just pulled it out, just use plenty of soapy water. I heard of some guys attaching a chain to the bead lock then yanking it out with a engine hoist while putting weight on the tire.
 
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BadMastard

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Duvall, Wa.
Young Guns got it. I pried and twisted and strapped the first few, and then watched a boot stomp put one in, and a pull remove one. Pretty easy.

-boot stomp: put one side of the beadlock in the tire between the sidewalls and the other will sit up on the edge of the tire. Literally, stomp on the up side of the bead lock, and it usually slips in nicely.

-removal: kick the beadlock to one side of the tire so you can grab the other side in the middle of the tire. Pull up and away from the other side. Will usually slide right out.

Ratchet strap and all? Great! Just takes more time.

P.S. You can avoid using lube if you work in the pouring rain. Ask me how I know!
 

Deuce007

New member
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Location
North Dakota
Special thanks to everyone who gave me the information on changing an a3 tire. Fixed one today and it went smoothly and had no leaks so now I think that I am out of dumb questions to ask on the subject.

Thanks SS members
 

Navo

Member
161
3
18
Location
Chesapeake, VA
Did anyone ever post what style, brand, or model number for their cold weather heater? The one that uses an extension cord to keep the water warm? I'm trying to think of the name but I'm drawing a blank on what it's called....

Anyway, it's starting to get cold here in Virginia and I would like to have this installed to help with starting before its gets even colder.

I saw where you guys were talking about it, if oh could post pictures etc that would be very helpful!

Thanks!
 

Hoefler

Active member
1,096
20
38
Location
White Bear Lake,MN
I bought a few of them from an ss member
I think he dtill ha some listed in parts ads
The a3 is perfect for install
Think they are called hot shot
Pete
 

Hoefler

Active member
1,096
20
38
Location
White Bear Lake,MN
I am back at work and have located the first page of install manual. I have a Hot Start SB heater. It looks like its perfect for the plumbing on an A3. There is a hose that comes out near the water pump that I intend to tap my heater into.
Look at the diagram-its perfect.
Pete
 

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Deuce007

New member
138
0
0
Location
North Dakota
How would I be able to tell if the steering assist regulator valve on my a3 is bad? I can't seem to find and type of air leaks in any of the steering components or hoses so I am beginning to think that it has to be something like the regulator causing my low air buzzer to sound when I make turns.
 

glcaines

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
When the air assist regulator fails, it normally leaks air to the outside of the regulator. Your issue is a common one with A3s. I had the same problem with my A3. I removed the air pressure input hose from the steering actuator and added some airtool oil. I then replaced the hose. I jacked up the front of the truck, started the engine and worked the steering wheel from lock to lock repeatedly until the airtool oil lubricated the actuator and the cylinder. This cured my problem. The other thing that can cause this and other air problems on an A3 is the priority valve. The priority valve makes sure that the brakes receive adequate air even in the situation of a major leak in the steering assist or CTIS. A couple of sharp raps with a hammer will usually free up the priority valve if it sticks.. I've been looking to replace the priority valve on my A3, but haven't been able to find a source.
 
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