• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M35A3 Owners unite

Scar59

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,811
41
38
Location
Mt. Eden, KY
Wow, I don't want in the middle of this, but I'm buying an A3 with R and 3rd out. I'll be seeing what they have in it shortly.
Most likely it is fourth gear and reverse. Any good trans shop that works big transmission will be able to address the rebuild. I have an A3 with the same issue, 8 bell housing attach bolts and it's on the ground. May repair it myself if I find the time.
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
Most likely it is fourth gear and reverse. Any good trans shop that works big transmission will be able to address the rebuild. I have an A3 with the same issue, 8 bell housing attach bolts and it's on the ground. May repair it myself if I find the time.
Yea, your right, it's fourth. He replaced the OEM tranny with a used one and it has the same problem. I get the original one with it, so may try to rebuild it myself.
 

Floridianson

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,409
2,503
113
Location
Interlachen Fl.
The transmission will use "ATF" Dexron and the transfer case will use 80/90w gear oil. Some people have gotten away with using Hydraulic oil ( 15w) in the transmission but Allison recommends "Dexron III " or better in this transmission.

If people read the post's then its clear from my post that Allison ok the MO.

I would. I served my apprenticeship at Neils Detroit Diesel working on Allison transmissions. I know this particular transmission very well. The only problem you could have is since it has been running this heavier oil is the damage to the clutch discs. Now if you go to the original oil you might get slippage since the discs are saturated with the heavier oil. Right now thinking about this I would go with a 15w hydraulic oil for a few thousand miles and then transition to the Dexron oil. Or just keep the hydraulic oil in it. No matter what anyone says, engine oil in a auto-matic transmission is not good for the longevity of the unit. The reason the military did this is because the "knuckleheads" driving the trucks couldn't figure out what oil to use so they went with just one oil. Pretty hard to mess that up. The military didn't care about transmission life, they had plenty spares to use. We don't.
Knuckleheads had nothing to do with the MO. Once again Allison OK it.
Reread my post #749 as I said well before you that the MO is used in off road trucks because of the high rpm, low ground speed's and heavy weights.
I don't know about you but I do not just drive my A3 to show off on the streets. I run it off road more than on road and spend hours at the local mud pit getting stuck and pulling other trucks out and no problems.
Say what you will but you bring the attitude when ever someone corrects you or says anything that is different from what Rusty says.
I brought facts on this and I am done with the bantering on the MO as now you are just repeating what I said. Thanks
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,280
2,989
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
If people read the post's then its clear from my post that Allison ok the MO.



Knuckleheads had nothing to do with the MO. Once again Allison OK it.
Reread my post #749 as I said well before you that the MO is used in off road trucks because of the high rpm, low ground speed's and heavy weights.
I don't know about you but I do not just drive my A3 to show off on the streets. I run it off road more than on road and spend hours at the local mud pit getting stuck and pulling other trucks out and no problems.
Say what you will but you bring the attitude when ever someone corrects you or says anything that is different from what Rusty says.
I brought facts on this and I am done with the bantering on the MO as now you are just repeating what I said. Thanks
Again your misrepresenting the facts. That MO is OLD ! There is no longer any engine oil that is cleared by Allison. It is obsolete. You finally mentioned that the engine oil was to be used "off-road" only. After I called you on it. As to getting upset about anyone correcting me, if you have facts I will listen. I have in the past. I just don't like misinformation being spread around like it's "Gospel" when in fact it's your "opinion" . As for not bringing any information to this, are you kidding ?!?!
You are right about one thing though. I'm done trying to reason with you as you will never listen to facts just your own opinion. At least next time try using just the facts and don't go with the personal attacks. I know your better then that.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,280
2,989
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
For everyone else's edification I have posted all the "Allison" approved fluids and manufactures. Note there is not one that lists any engine oil. There is a reason for this. Modern engine oils are not the same as they where back in the 1970's and 1980's when the C-4 classification was in effect. Modern engines oils have a ton of additives that are not good for automatic transmissions.

View attachment Scan0116.pdf View attachment Scan0117.pdfView attachment Scan0118.pdfView attachment Scan0119.pdf
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,280
2,989
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Before anyone says all those oils where for "On-Highway" use , well the AT500 series transmission is an On-Highway transmission.
All "off-road" vehicles are graders and dozers and loaders and such.
 

steve6x6x6

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,425
37
48
Location
Winter Haven, florida
I have not read all of these pages but M35A3 owners with fiberglass hoods, Please check the latch pin mounted in the hood.Today i found mine had totally broken loose from the fiberglass and fell out. the only thing holding the hood was the rubber straps.
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,915
2,595
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
I have not read all of these pages but M35A3 owners with fiberglass hoods, Please check the latch pin mounted in the hood.Today i found mine had totally broken loose from the fiberglass and fell out. the only thing holding the hood was the rubber straps.
I recently replaced my steel hood with an NOS fiberglass hood. What a difference! The fiberglass hood looks substantially better and is much lighter when raising and lowering. I don't have insulation on the fiberglass hood, but I can't tell any difference in noise levels from when the steel hood with insulation was on the truck. However, I have some caveats regarding the NOS fiberglass hood. The NOS fiberglass hood came with new hood hinges which were well painted. However, the new hinges were tighter on the pins than the originals, although they moved freely. Within two weeks in the rain, both hinges rusted and seized up. The paint on both hinges completely disappeared, like it was watercolor paint. Two weeks later and both hinges were bare steel with no sign of green paint, and rusted solid. I had to remove both hinges and replace with my originals from the steel hood. Another caveat is that the rubber hold down straps that came on the NOS hood failed within one month. Although they both looked brand new, both broke into two pieces. Again, I had to use the originals from my old steel hood, which are still in excellent condition despite being many years old. The ones on my NOS fiberglass hood were junk. This was an original NOS fiberglass hood in the original packaging, not one of the replicas that are being sold. If anyone else is installing one of the few remaining NOS fiberglass hoods, beware of the hinges and rubber hold down straps.
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,915
2,595
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
I'm still using the CTIS, so I think I still need the original valve stems. I just used my last spare one as a replacement for a very corroded one on a leaking tire/wheel. I still have two tires that leak down over two weeks and I don't want to tear them down unless I'm prepared for the worst case. The other 5 wheels I've dismantled had valve stems in excellent condition, but grommets that were completely trashed.
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
I'm not staying with the CTIS, myself on my own machine, while I will keep it on one I am working on to sell. Even with new seals, I had trouble with leaking on the pipe thread and tube system.

There are some valve stem connectors used on the Sand Trail (ST) tires that connect to the small valve stem and have an o-ring fitting, so I don't think connecting to the ones above would be a problem with the CTIS, but might take some investigation.

I thought the ST control valve would make a nice replacement for the older style on the A3 also, but not that interested in trying. I'm happy with fresh paint, new oring and modern well sealed valve stem, than the modified pipe that is OEM... so leaks are minimized.

I'll see if I have the take out parts. Oh yea, I had a better way of plumbing that used a strong hydraulic fitting T and new SMC fittings with urethane tube. Copper or steel or SS tube can be used with the Oring fittings also, but you will have centrifugal forces to deal with.
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,915
2,595
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
I'm keeping the CTIS on my truck. It works quite well, but I don't use it, I just leave it turned off. I run 60 PSI in my 14.5 X 20 tires and the truck runs much smoother with the higher pressure and I suspect my tires will last longer. I had to rebuild one hub when I first got the truck, replacing the O-rings and retainers, but everything else works fine. Someone in the Army had butchered the internal parts, but now everything is good. The system is actually very simple. I contacted the CTIS manufacturer, CM Automotive, when I first got the truck. They were great. They sent me a brand new NOS wheel cylinder free of charge via FedEx Next Day, even though I didn't need it.
 

HDN

Well-known member
2,112
5,088
113
Location
Finger Lakes Region, NY
Yet another old M35A3 thread. I'm looking for other M35A3 owners in Western NY. I know of two others who are members on this board, but I'm wondering if there's anyone else. I think it would be fun to get our A3s together at the ESATA truck show in Stafford at some point!
 

bushw

New member
17
6
3
Location
Michigan
Got some other things straightened around on mine down at Ty's last week and drove it down the road.Got it to shift OK.Mine should be here by the weekend (fingers are crossed).Need wheel CTIS parts.Interested in the 6 speed Allison swap.Is it overdrive?
Was your truck struggling to shift, and when it did, slam down in gear? If so, I had the same issue a couple of months ago. I never fully figured out the issue, but did make some headway with cycling through new ATF, as well as an interior and exterior filter change.
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,915
2,595
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
Was your truck struggling to shift, and when it did, slam down in gear? If so, I had the same issue a couple of months ago. I never fully figured out the issue, but did make some headway with cycling through new ATF, as well as an interior and exterior filter change.
The behavior you outlined is typical when motor oil is still in the transmission. Especially downshifting when slowing down or stopping. Switching to Dexron III eliminated this in my A3.
 

bushw

New member
17
6
3
Location
Michigan
The behavior you outlined is typical when motor oil is still in the transmission. Especially downshifting when slowing down or stopping. Switching to Dexron III eliminated this in my A3.
When I drained the oil the first time, it seemed to be pure ATF (albeit burned). Is there a good way to clean the system without draining multiple and filling times?
 

HDN

Well-known member
2,112
5,088
113
Location
Finger Lakes Region, NY
When I drained the oil the first time, it seemed to be pure ATF (albeit burned). Is there a good way to clean the system without draining multiple and filling times?
I would take it to your local Allison shop. The Penn Power Group here quoted me $250-$300 to flush the system and fill it with Dexron III. But if you don't want to spend that money, a forum search will spell out the DIY flushing process for you.

Automatic transmissions aren't exactly my forte, so I'm more inclined to pay for that kind of work. YMMV
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks