Rustygears
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I guess I have a heck of a lot of luck for a lot of years. Leaving the headlights on for a constant load helps avoid spikes. Spikes come from transient loads.
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m35a3 wont start
- Thread starter Coalman
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R Racing
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Did You check your power on/ off switch seen 2 go bad and do the same.
Coalman
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Well just wanted to post a follow up. I went yesterday and rechecked everything and it turned out to be a bad battery when under load. I tried putting the charger on but didn't crank fast enough so I put in two batteries out of my one dozers and it started right up. So know my next question what are the best batteries for the money ? I was thinking of going to wally world and getting 2 with the most cranking power . That is what I run in my dozers and they work just fine and they are guaranteed for 3 years free replacement, Which is great because they usally last about 2-21/2 years and they give you new ones free with a brand new warrenty.
rickf
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At one time not long ago the Everstart batteries ( Wal-Mart ) were the top rated batteries. I have always had good service from them.
Rick
Rick
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There are a lot of conflicting opinions on Interstate 6TL batteries. My A2 that I picked up several years ago had Interstate 6TLs in it and one finally failed this year. They both had date codes of 2005, so they provided around 7 years of service from them. I bought new 6TLs as replacements. I'm also running old 6TLs in my A3 without problems. Keep the electrolyte level up.
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rickf
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You really do not need 6TL's unless the cable length will not allow for smaller batteries. Any of the larger pick-up truck batteries will work fine. The 6 TL does not have any more cranking amps than a group 27, it does have a ton of reserve power for leaving lights on and for sitting for long periods.
Rick
Rick
lawnmowerman
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Does anyone have a new starter relay? The one that mounts to the fire wall on a m35a3. Mine works but only 70 percent of the time. Have to give it a few try's then it sends it to the starter. Its a prestolite wse 4101 at
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Erik's Military Surplus has them for $90.00 http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/vehicle-electrical-parts.html. The starter relay on a M35A3 is the same as on a M35A2. However, are you certain that you have a faulty starter relay? Have you confirmed that the starter relay is faulty? As I mentioned in PMs, your problem could also be a faulty starter solenoid, a faulty starter or a poor cable connection. Make sure you disconnect the negative battery cable before working on the starter relay or starter as some of the cables are hot, even with the master off.
lawnmowerman
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Hey thanks, Is for sure the relay. No fire to starter. But Erick's is out of supply. But got one on eBay nos new he says. It looks a little tarnished so it better work. By the looks of my old relay it looks like you can take it apart. Also it still works but about 70% of the time so will save it for spare when desperate. Is it possible to clean the contact bar on this thing. Oh payed 120 better than being somewhere and break down . Butt thank you for the safety notes .DC current dangerous thing. Thank you.
snowtrac nome
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check batterys low voltage will cook your relay
lawnmowerman
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Batteries 100 percent.
Mquirin
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My m35a3 will no longer start, and I need some help from the group please. I’ve installed 2 new batteries and a new auxiliary switch. When I try to start, I just get a click at the starter relay.
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HDN
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Did you try running the shifter through the gears back and forth once or twice? It's possible that the neutral safety switch isn't working right.
Mquirin
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Yes, I just did that, but no change. What I did notice is when i turn the aux switch to on, many of the gauges jump, but nothing happens with the Volt gauge. I do get headlights and movement on some of the gauges. In the past the volt gauge would move. I also noticed my headlights work when the aux switch is off but go dim when the aux switch is on. I’m wondering if the aux switch, I just installed could be bad.
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Mquirin
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Power looks correct now that I'm using a new meter. Previous one was faulty.
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Just to clarify, you bought two brand new batteries, installed them in your truck, and you haven't charged (or overcharged) them at all? Do they each read 19V when disconnected from the truck? 38V is way too much. Fresh 12V batteries wired in series should give you ~26V, read on a reliable voltmeter.
Mquirin
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On my Aux switch (I tried 2 and got same results with both), when I have all 4 plugs hooked up (both 11s, 27-400 and 27) to the back, I only get a few gauges that move when I turn the switch on. When I unplug plug 27 but leave 27-400, all of the other guages respond (for example the Volt guage). Its like it won't power all guages with both plugged in, but just one at a time (27 or 27-400). Any ideas to why? I did test continuity on the switches and they appear to be functioning correctly (both power to accessory plugs).
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Mquirin
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With new meter, each battery is measuring 12.8v and 25.6v together. I’m also getting 25.6v to both of the 11 plugs at the aux switch.
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If you are uncertain whether or not you have hooked up all four wires correctly on the Battery Accessory Switch, check the electrical schematic in TM 9-2320-386-24-1-2. It will show you which wire numbers go to which contact on the switch. I have a question. Why did you replace the switch? Why did you think it needed replacement? I'm assuming here that your A3 started and ran fine prior to replacing the batteries and Battery Accessory Switch?
Mquirin
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Thanks for the response. I checked the schematics, and I have the 4 wires hooked up correctly to the Aux switch. I'm getting correct voltage to the 2x power wires (11) on the Aux switch. I've tested the switch, and it appears to be getting proper voltage from ports A-B and C-D (B and D ports are getting proper voltage with Aux switch turned on).
Some weird behaviors I'm experiencing...
- When I hook up individual aux wires on the Aux switch (1 at a time), they seem to power the gauges correctly (for instance, with wire 27-400 fires up the Volt gauge)
- When I hook up the 2nd aux wire into the Aux switch (ex wire 27), some of the gauges that were working with just wire 27-400 stop working (for example, the Volt gauge stops working). It's like they seem to get the correct power 1 at a time, but not when both 27-400 and 27 are connected.
- The headlights are bright when the Aux switch is off, but it becomes very dim with the Aux switch On.
- At times I do get the thump sound at the Started Relay, but nothing happens beyond that.
- It seems like there are some sort of issues going on just with the Aux switch, headlights, powering the gauges, etc. I'm thinking once that is corrected, the motor will start like it has for the past 7 years.
I'm at a loss. I've had this truck for many years and it's always been great. Not sure if what I described above would give a clue to what could be the culprit?
Thanks! Mike