M37 Brakes

[jakeblues107]

Yes, she is a nice ride, is affectionatly referred to as "Booger"- the other department in town had it's twin "Snot" and has a small oil leak from the engine. "Restored" by members a few years ago, paint was done by a local gentleman who is no longer with us who specialized in fire apparatus. Nice thing is a little buff and polish and you wont see any scratches. That Photo is a couple years old taken at the State Fireman's Convention in New London.
I was a member of a neighboring Department in the late 1980's early 1990's when we aquired 2 M37s and did a frame up on one to build a brush rig. That truck has since been retired and sits in it's own bay next to the departments 1938 Diamond T. Not sure what happened to the second truck, which we obtained from the Oswegatchie FD in Waterford-that truck had a winch. The truck that still exists was Engine 4 in the City of Norwich and when restored ran as P-26 in the Preston City FD. That truck has a "ragtop" and was a fun truck to drive. I was able to take it on a few calls before leaving the department.

 

[pwrwagonfire]

I figured I'd chime in here. I work for my state's forestry agency, and we have power wagons (granted they are civi ones) which we use as brush trucks. They aren't the first truck out the door anymore, but when you need them, nothing does what they do better. They can be invaluable assets.
Another factor is that if you don't have a driver who can really drive these trucks, they are not being used effectively. If no skilled driver? Ours stay at home and we make due with ATVs etc.
The depts in my area who have M-37s as brush trucks (a couple still do) also have a newer unit, and they do what we do: use the M-37 when needed.

First thing? If it has a steel tank in it, that's no good IMHO, gotta put a poly or fiberglass tank in to reduce the weight, I see too many overloaded trucks.

I'd look at the duel circuit MC conversion as others have said here, it's easy to do, and will make the truck much safer. Rebuild the rest of the brake system...a lot of the power wagons/M37s I see have wheel cylinders which have been re-built 2 or 4 times and are way out of spec...new wheel cylinders and brakes shoes would be helpful.

Good luck! Keep rolling, stay safe, come home.

 

[MSG Rusty]

there is a 2 stage master break cylinder that fits the original bolt holes. I think it is off a ford ranger. still you will have to run new brake lines to the rear wheels. the brakes if adjusted will lock up the tires.
During a truck show at the VA home in Bristol RI I met a vet that worked on the M37's he asked me how I was boing with the brakes. I guess my non poker face gave him the answer.
He told me that after the first 25 K miles you MUST adjust the brakes by first centering the top adjustment bolts then adjust the 2 lower bolts. Seems the brake linings compact and you have to reestablish a new focal point. for the brake shoes. After you do this be careful how hard you step on the brake pedal. Unless you have a 4 point safety belt.

 

[hndrsonj]

Look on the uglytruckling site, they walk you through how to do the master cylinder upgrade. It is less than 1/2 price of a stock master cylinder. I would absolutely do the disk brake upgrade. I have them on mine (along with the master cylinder) and love it. The stock brake parts are actually going up in price and it wasn't alot more to go with disk brakes than it would have been to go through the stock system.

 

[MSG Rusty]

Shes not ugly she is a classy chick.
Now for the brakes.
get a master cylinder for a 71-72 chevy c30. It has two chambers one for the front brakes and one for the rear. Run the brake lines as needed. Make sure the individual wheel cylinders are new, not rebuilt but new. the cost per wheel is not all that bad so do it right. While you have the wheels apart you should remove the brake shoes and clean the pivot pins. Make sure you lube the pins prior to putting them back together. ( I use nickel antisieze on the pins ) slap it all together and adjust the brakes. Your all set.
The master cylinder is a direct bolt hole wit and should take about 2 hours to do. the individual wheels is simple and should take no more than 45 min per wheel. the biggest pain in the but is bleeding the brakes after its all done. Hint is to make a funnel with pipe fixtures to do the filling of the fluid while bleeding is going on. Now when I hit the brakes the tires actually lock up