• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M37 n.o.s gas tank?

Tanner

Active member
1,013
11
38
Location
Raleigh, NC
dose any one know where to find a n.o.s gas tank or next to new for the M37:?:
I'm not aware of anyone producing them new. There may be an NOS tank out in the world, but a good used tank is probably your best bet. Someone has used a fuel tank from a newer civilian truck - IIRC, it was a tank from an Isuzu Trooper/Rodeo, or maybe a Chevy S-10 pickup?

Can anyone chime in here?

'Tanner'
 

rumplecat

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,037
221
63
Location
North West Arkansas
You can keep an eye out for a M101 trailer set up for a gen set, I think they are the same tanks and some are in unused shape.
James G.
 

m108

New member
68
0
0
Location
Tennessee
I used a tank out of an 80's chevy van on one truck. You will have to use longer bolts on the straps but the vent and filler holes are the same size and location. Lately we have been cutting them open and sand blasting them and welding them back together then use sealer on the inside but if it has rust holes fiberglass the out side first then seal. I had one repaired like that for about 8 years before i sold it and currently have 3 in the fleet like that now.
 

WPNS421

New member
441
3
0
Location
Cantley Quebec
The best place for M37 parts is Dodge Power Wagon 1-888 695-0578, these guys have absolutly everything. I like them because the guys who sell you the parts also know what they are talking about. I did a major rebuild on my M37 and that is where I got 95% of my parts both NOS and used. There are locatedin Fairfield IA
 

nattieleather

Well-known member
1,883
145
63
Location
Cleveland, OH
I used a tank out of an 80's chevy van on one truck. You will have to use longer bolts on the straps but the vent and filler holes are the same size and location. Lately we have been cutting them open and sand blasting them and welding them back together then use sealer on the inside but if it has rust holes fiberglass the out side first then seal. I had one repaired like that for about 8 years before i sold it and currently have 3 in the fleet like that now.
Do you have a model and year range on that van? Is that a metal tank or plastic? I'm thinking of changing to a plastic tank and have been looking for a civilian equivilant.

Thanks
 

M-37Bruce

Active member
705
59
28
Location
Midlothian, VA
The S-10 is almost a dead ringer, or so I've been told?
I had mine rebuilt, like Bubba, cut three inch square holes, dipped, blasted, welded & seal coated. I also had a pin hole leak that had so much putty/fiber glass & whatever in/on it you couldn't tell tell what it was?
I brazed a silver dime on it, you can almost see the walking lady?
Vintage Power Wagon might be able to find you a Take Off? :wink:
 

Attachments

68t

Active member
376
57
28
Location
Michie, ,tn
my nephew, rebuilded his m37 tank. he cut the gas tank all way around the tank above the seam, then sand blasted the inside, welded it back and put in the red sealer, its just like a new tanks, the sealer was the big cost. rest was labor, but you will need the tools of course, also our friends has done several m37 tanks the same way.
 

m108

New member
68
0
0
Location
Tennessee
Do you have a model and year range on that van? Is that a metal tank or plastic? I'm thinking of changing to a plastic tank and have been looking for a civilian equivilant.

Thanks

Sorry I don't know the exact year I do know it was somewhere in the 80's I crawled around under everything that looked close in a salvage yard with a tape measure untill I found it. Like I said now I cut them open, sandblast, weld them back together, and seal them.
 

68t

Active member
376
57
28
Location
Michie, ,tn
well 108 i wonder where we got the ideal from , cutting the tank open from , much be a guy name andy:-D:-D, i got to get up there and see you and joe . just figured it out who you was, that was a good ideal it works great. did they have the tractor show last week end.:-D:-D
 

rosco

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,102
30
38
Location
Delta Junction, Alaska
I had a tank that started dripping gas and when I got under there and cleaned the spot with a wire brush, it was clear that I had a serious problem. So I pulled the tank. By the time that I cleaned the tank bottom, I had several dozen pin holes. I cleaned the thing up, and used a soldering iron & 60/40 solder on each hole. The tank is zinc coated, as a corrosion inhibiter, so it solders beautifully. Use a generous dollop of solder. I did this, some 25 years ago & it is still driven daily. Be sure to use something like "Heet", as a moisture retardant, to keep the moisture from building up inside.

Beware of the open flame. I used the regular old copper soldering iron. That is the one you heat (away from the tank), with a torch, and it holds the heat long enough to do two or three holes. You could also use an electric iron. There is no open flame, so you can solder the tank without "curing" it.

Lee in Alaska
 

Ferroequinologist

Resident railroad expert
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,811
746
113
Location
Liberty Hill, SC
I got a tank off a m101 set up for gens, it fits perfect. Problem is it has several spots where it is rusted out, but not like the other one, where the bottom of the tank was gone!

I have been debating how to fix it- weld patches on myself, or take it to someone.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks