M37 square lock washer / body washer questions

[M-37Bruce]

Bed Bolts and Fender Welting

Bed Bolts
Both Fender Beads and or Welting with the welting I think what's important is the inability of water retention.

 

[jedawson1]

Perfect picture of the bolts, I'll fwd to John at Midwest Military, his bolts are an inch too long. Based on your welt picture I may just order the M923 hard top welting, I can cut the bead off one side and it would be darn close in appearance but be full rubber.

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[M-37Bruce]

John had figured out where to cut the bolt/nut holes. The bed bolts I got from John had been extended, I don't remember by how much, I could pull one, as my bed is not finished and the bolts are not torqued down yet?

 

[jedawson1]

No need to remove them, the bolts he shipped me are 7" long and they hit the top of the tie down shackle bracket. I believe 6" will work but there isn't enough thread for me to cut Johns bolts down.

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[frank8003]

http://www.industrialcomponents-ar.com/Assets/catalog pdfs/self locking washers.10.20.10.web.pdf

square ones, it is like a double safety. When put against a place where
they can not turn it is double lock aircraft stuff.

View attachment square self locking washers.10.20.10.web.pdf

 

[hndrsonj]

No need to remove them, the bolts he shipped me are 7" long and they hit the top of the tie down shackle bracket. I believe 6" will work but there isn't enough thread for me to cut Johns bolts down.

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I just cut them then ran a die over them to cut more threads.

 

[jedawson1]

Got a box of goodies from John at Midwest. The welt looks like good quality and the new bed bolts are 5 1/2 inches long which should fit perfect.

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[M-37Bruce]

Those Bed Bolts look much better than mine, new and improved from John, the welts look nicer, like the black centers.

 

[Roger Friedrich]

Jedawson1

I looked at your picture but could see if you had the rubber spacer that goes between the bed and frame

that would take up some of the space to make the bolt work

 

[NAM VET]

I just finished new welting on my rear fenders, they were off for painting, painted both the fender and the side where the welting goes. To see where I had to use a punch to put the bolt holes, I started at one end with a clamp holding the welting to the side, the used blue painter's tape about every five or six inches to hold the welting snug to the side, then heated up an ice pick with a torch, and from above melted a small hole at each hole location, took the welding off, used my punch to cut each bolt hole, then used GOOP, an automotive adhesive to hold the welting in position, again some tape to hold it for a few minutes, then used new Grade 8 one inch fine thread bolts from below, with appropriate flat washers under the bolt heads. I did "chase" the threads on each nut from below, so I didn't risk cross threading any of the weld nuts. Be sure to tighten up the top several bolts first, that pulls the fender up snug to the side, then do the lower ones.

Was one of the few quick and easy chores to restore my M37. Looks great, and the GOOP and the bolts I think will keep it from squeezing out. With a good wire brushing and then a rust converter on both metal parts, then several coats of primer, then two coats of Gillespie paint, I don't think I will worry about rust in my lifetime.

NAM VET