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M38a1 jeep horn stuff

lmgoldstein

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Isn't it always the case? The seemingly simplest operation taking the most time, energy, money and hair pulling. My jeep 1952 M28a1 does not have a horn switch or rod. I ordered the correct steering wheel and ordered the horn switch kit. My jeep does not have a rod. I know it goes down the shaft, but then what? It came out the bottom, but now what? Also, how does the switch itself align? Does the wire with the contact go at the top of the shaft, the bottom? Does it attach to the rod somehow? Or should I just shout out the side and call it a day? Any, any information would be helpful. I know I could always attach it to the outside of the column and run the wire on the outside, but I'd rather not. Thanks.
 

NDT

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??? The horn switch threads in the bottom of the steering gear. The rod goes down the middle of the steering shaft and contacts the button protruding from the top of the horn switch. A metal cap threads on the top of the rod, and a rubber cap goes over that. There is a guide tube in the bottom of the steering gear that guides the horn rod, it is very tricky to lower the rod down the steering column and have it go in the end of the guide rod. That help you any?
 

zout

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Suggestion only. Get a piece of mechanics wire - cut long enough to reach the bottom of the steering box to come out the top of the steering wheel.

Insert the wire from the BOTTOM of the steering gear up through its hole - use a thin piece of tape and tape on your horn rod - easily pull out the bottom - then hold the rod at the top with a plastic clamp - screw on your horn switch at the bottom - rod will then not fall out. Then finish the repair at the top adjusting the collar around the horn rod and pop on the rubber cap. The new style collar has a tendacy to self thread itself on. You can stick a dab of thread locker on it to hold it.
 

lmgoldstein

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Seems like an awful lot and grief and aggrevation for a horn switch. And expensive. So, this rod goes from the top to the bottom and comes out a small hole. I did this with a piece of piano wire just for the just of it. That small hole at the bottom, this is where the contact goes with the spring and 16 gage wire attached to it? So this rod comes out ( the bottom) attaches to the switch. The wire (16 gage) attached to the switch can't wrap around the steering column when you turn left or right. I'm doing something wrong here.
 

NDT

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From what you describe you have been sold the wrong parts. The rod down the column does not conduct electricity, it pushes on the button on the horn switch which is threaded in the bottom of the gear. The horn switch is like crazy expensive. It has 2 military rubber insulated wires coming out of it which are about 6" long, one to the +24 volt supply and the other to the horn.
 

zout

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John up at Midwest Military has a kit with all the parts.
From the top of the steer shaft - the rod will protrude no more than 1/2 inch - there is a 1 inch collar threaded roughly 8/32nds that threads onto the top of the rod - this is also the adjuster - there is a rubber cap that snaps over the end of the steering shaft collar.

The rod extended into the steering gear and yes the hole is a little larger than the shaft. The horn switch has a (ball bearing) looking piece that threads up into the box - so when you push down on the rubber at the top - it pushes the end of the rod then hitting the switch at the other end.

The wires coming off the switch right there can just get tied back and make your connections.

sectionsteeringgear.jpg
 

Maverick1701

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how did you unscrew (or re-screw) your horn switch? I have absolutely NO room for a wrench & am (so far) unable to remove the wiring dongle from the switch but I'm going to re-try after soaking in PB. If I can unplug the wires from the switch I won't need to uninstall the switch (I just need to repair some wiring)


***EDIT***
I was able to get the switch removed after cutting the wires and using an impact on the switch itself. I have the wires repaired and the repair tests good with a voltmeter. Now I have to figure out how to re-install....hmmm. I don't be able to use any kind of wrench in such a tight space. since the wires are fixed that rules out using a socket. How did y'all install your switch?
 
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m38inmaine

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I just restored a M38A1 a couple of years ago, ZOUT and NDT are correct. The biggest challenge I had was getting the rod through the bottom hole.
 
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