• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M43 Work Begins

toddbe

New member
103
0
0
Location
Holland, MI
The process of bringing my 1952 M43 Ambulance back to life has begun. I towed her home this past summer after my sister-in-law found her on a ‘Sunday afternoon drive’. Got the barn ready and moved her in there a few weeks ago.

My first project was to convert an engine back to 24volts and install it and the transmission. The prior owner had removed the engine/transmission due to ‘some failure’ and was going to install a ‘bigger better engine’. I ‘borrowed’ the engine/transmission from the M37 that I was working on, it is a complete frame off frame restoration.

I hope to use this thread to post progress and request ideas and help as I move through this project. Todd
 

Attachments

Last edited:

toddbe

New member
103
0
0
Location
Holland, MI
M43 Restoration - Rust on roof

While my first project was going to be the engine/transmission (long story) I have been spending some time looking at the few rust spots I have. The curvature of where the roof and sides come together have some rust. My first thought was to torch it out, but then I thought about the insulation behind it and the double wall framing of the unit. Thoughts?

Another questions - the close up photos shows the white material under the paint. This is close to 1/8 inch thick. First thought was somebody did a repair job, but as I work more with removing this paint to get to the steel I find that almost the entire curvature has this. Any ideas on what this much material and what it is?

Thanks, Todd
 

Attachments

zout

Well-known member
7,744
154
63
Location
Columbus Georgia
OK - look up air nibbler for cutting this type of thin body metal. Its an air tool that has a type of punching device in the nose of it
and you can cut in line on a sheet to the other end. Make a straight edge barrier to run the tool along on this area so it is straight.

Then using a PUNCH Flaring air tool it will make a lap joint edge for you to intersect the two joints - new to old.
You should be able to remove your old metal - take it to a shop and have them bend (looks like you might already have one in that sweet garage of yours) and make your bend and lay in your new sheet. Tac weld joint - then carefully full weld. There is a product called ALL METAL as a body filler to make your first seam seal - then you can use regular body filler over it.

When you grind your high weld out of the new area - you can use a high speed air tool with like a 40 grit or 80 grit disc on it. Use an in line air sander to make the joint straight smoothing out out fillers.

Its really not as bad as it looks.
 
235
2
18
Location
Dayton, OH
I believe the white material you've uncovered is bondo - but you probably have figured that out by now. It looks like the last person who worked on that truck troweled it on pretty thick. It's not impossible to fix so long as you have some metal working skill.
 

Wolfen

Active member
936
150
43
Location
Woodburn Oregon
Definitely do not use a Torch to Cut the Metal on the Roof. The Insulation is a type of Cardboard and will catch on Fire if exposed to open Flame. It is common for the M43's to Rust out at the Roof line. John Bizal at http://www.midwestmilitary.net/ or Vintage Power Wagons can help you with Parts.
 

toddbe

New member
103
0
0
Location
Holland, MI
I believe the white material you've uncovered is bondo - but you probably have figured that out by now. It looks like the last person who worked on that truck troweled it on pretty thick. It's not impossible to fix so long as you have some metal working skill.
I was originally thinking a bondo job, but then found it ran the entire length of vehicle on both sides. So then I was thinking may not. That is why I thought I would ask. Not that it is really going to change the work that need to be done.
 
Last edited:

toddbe

New member
103
0
0
Location
Holland, MI
More rust gone

More of the rust is gone this weekend. Most of this will not be a difficult welding repair. Where the two roof section meet could be interesting in how it all comes together.

I also took out part of the ceiling in the cab to look for rust damage. It appears the mice enjoyed that area for a home (hard to see in the photos, but . . . )
 

Attachments

toddbe

New member
103
0
0
Location
Holland, MI
I've been working on the body of the truck, doing much 'prep' work while it is cold outside. Removed the Red Cross and white around it on the top and sides.

Inside the cab the roof has been removed with a little rust noted. Blower and wiring appears in good condition.

Anybody know about the 'guts' of the spotlight? Looks like I'm missing some parts. I know - read the TM - just have not got there yet.

The last photo - the closest an engine/transmission and the truck have come to each other in many many years. I will be returning this engine to 24 volts, painting and installing it in the M43.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

toddbe

New member
103
0
0
Location
Holland, MI
20131027_173606.jpg

It is time for the M43 to return to the workshop. The Jeep Willy's is almost done, but no longer need to be in the work area. The engine and transmission are just waiting to be reinstalled.
 
Top