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m813 over the road reliability

91W350

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How off road do you want to go? Check the guy towing a camper...

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CR4kTXalXb0&feature=related[/media]

Slow and easy....

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hBWDULqpvg&feature=related[/media]
 
Folks on here lack imagination!

If the man wants to do it, it can be done.

It can be done safely as well. Getting creative on finding parts and doing youre own wrenching will save you big bucks. My turbo, exhaust manifold, intake, crossover tube, and misc,cost me $430 and change.. It would of been 400 even if I had cash but I used plastic. It was also a remaned unit that hadnt been used since rebuild. Oil cooled piston being required is a joke! The are not the thing that kills these motors, it is to much boost for the compression ratio being ran. Reduce back pressure drop EGTSs, regulate max boost, save motor. There are a number of things that can be done at a reasonable expense to keep these trucks alive and running. Whats the cost of keeping up a OTR rig, ALOT! insurance is alot also. Its all give and take! Its your truck and you are responsible for it on the road! Do what you can live with!
Alredneck,
Don't confuse a lack of imagination with living in reality. Yes, if the man wants to do it, it can be done..... Then do it, don't ask for advice.
The OP wants to drive a loaded M813, pulling a trailer, at 75 mph, for several 900 mile trips per year.
Even with the wildest imagination I don't see that happening with a $430 turbo.
What kind of fuel economy does your boosted truck get?
How many long trips has it been used for, and how much maintenence was required?
The advice given here is meant to be helpfull. Contrary to some thinking, Military Vehicles are not ideal for every application.
 

moose

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Wow, some of you guys are pretty critical to someone asking a few questions. So, let me respond by saying that I already have an F-350 with 4x4, 8inch lift, 38" Toyos, and a Banks power pack. The truck is perfect and does everything I want, except that it can't haul a large sandrail, and pull the toybox at the same time. I want to put the rail in the bed and tow the toybox. That was my reason for asking about the m813's abilities and how to modify it.
Many of you have suggested looking into a 900 series truck instead. OK, that sounds like good advice and I will look into that. I do know how to work on my vehicles, but was looking for advice from those of you that have worked on your own. I would rather not repeat a mistake that someone else has already tried and learned from. If I see a thread where I can offer useful advice or a previous experience of my own, I do, just trying to help out.
As far as the comfort goes, let me say that I do plan on modifying many things in the truck that I end up with. I don't want to change the way the truck looks, but I do want it's performance to match my needs as closely as I can, and I do plan on rebuilding the cab( crew cab?) to match my needs. Also, don't forget that I need 4x4 and ground clearance to do what I need the truck to do. That rules out the KW, Peterbuilts, etc.
I'm trying to make sure that I start with the right truck, and go down the right path of modifications. So, thanks to those of you that offered good advice.
 

FormerNewMVGuy

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With enough time and money anything is possible, as far as speed goes, i drive mine at 53 mph all day, and i feel that is pushing it, that is on stock tires. I think the truck is an awesome platform. but slow moving and the brake system kinda svcks, Eastern surplus sells a airbrake conversion kit, which would better suit your needs for trailering and hauling the loads you plan to haul.
I prefer these trucks in there stock form. but to each there own.
Good luck with it.
 

clinto

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Wow, some of you guys are pretty critical to someone asking a few questions.
I can see why it must feel that way.

Let me add my $.02.

I've been surfing this forum hard for 5 years.......... and about every 30-90 days, someone new shows up and says "I want to use a military vehicle (and 98% of the time it's a deuce or 5 ton) in multiple ways in which it was totally not designed... can I do this, what will it cost, etc.".

Those multiple ways include but are not limited to the following desires:

Speed
Comfort
Fuel mileage


Now, originally the vehicles were designed to be used in NONE of those ways.... i.e quickly, comfortably or economically.

And every 30-90 days, the answers are about the same as you've received:

Much faster than about 60 is a risk to other motorists, wildlife and yourself.
Be prepared for big $$$ and basically re-engineering the vehicle.

After being in the classic car hobby for 20 years, I liken this to the guy who shows up to a cruise night in a Sixties car with all modern drivetrain, wiring, HVAC, etc. Not really sure why he bought a 40 year old car when he actually wanted a new Honda. Don't get me wrong, upgrades are fine-I made the cardinal sin of using electronic ignition instead of points in my Hemi Road Runner. But there's a point where upgrades end and "I should have bought a used BMW M3" begin. Know what I mean?

Ultimately, you can re-engineer ANYTHING to meet most any goal...... but is it worth it?

To me, a lifted F450 would meet your goals better and honestly be cheaper. Army trucks are cheap to obtain, but once you decide you want to re-engineer them and have any modicum of reliability, you are committing to an epic commitment of cash.

Since the only people here who know what shape their truck is in are people who were managing the upkeep of that truck in the service, it's safe to say none of us truly know what shape our trucks are in. I'd say anyone who thinks finding some rebuild tags on components or records in the glove box constitutes knowing the condition of their vehicle is a fool or a liar. Maybe both.

Ultimately, you want reliability?

Buy the truck.
Rebuild the engine.. a FULL rebuild, not a gasket overhaul.
Rebuild the trans, including a new clutch.
Rebuild the transfer.
Rebuild all 3 axles.
Replace all bearings, brakes line, hoses, etc.
Replace all the wiring

Otherwise, it's a time bomb. Only question is how long the fuse is on your time bomb.


And ultimately, at the end of the day, when you've spent the ungodly sum to do all this, you've still got a compromise vehicle which was designed to do this and you've re-engineered/modified it to do that.

I am not saying you shouldn't do it-and if you did, I'd love to see the pics and hear the stories and learn from your work. I just wouldn't do it myself-I'd buy an F450 (more accurately, a Dodge 4500-I'm a Mopar guy :p).
 

Recovry4x4

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I don't think folks were being critical, just giving you answers to your questions that were gained from experience of themselves and others. Also, 900 series would not be the same as the M916 with is for the most part, an over the road type vehicle with all wheel drive. I'm sure you can obtain your goal, just at what expense. Also, one thing that was briefly mentioned is drive shaft speed. These are double reduction axles and large tires are the only dependable way to get speed out of them. You can run double overdrives and go 90 but the pinion bearings are going to fry and the bull gears foam up any oil you put in it and spray it out of the vents. The 813 would be ideal if you can just lower your speed expectations a bit.
 

JDToumanian

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I've been surfing this forum hard for 5 years.......... and about every 30-90 days, someone new shows up and says "I want to use a military vehicle (and 98% of the time it's a deuce or 5 ton) in multiple ways in which it was totally not designed... can I do this, what will it cost, etc.".
Yup. And every 30-90 days someone shows up with a "Total Brake Failure" thread. Nothing mechanical on an M813 was designed to go 75, so everything must be re-engineered to do so.... Engine, transmission, transfer, axles, brakes.

I think it would be fun to do, if I had deep pockets and not 50 other projects on my plate.... I especially like the idea of keeping it completely original looking with a modern drive train hidden. Go for it if you want, but be prepared to go all the way.

Jon
 

mcmullag

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rough, loud, bumpy

When these trucks traveled a long distance in service, weren't they in groups and had a M1031 contact maintenance support truck and maybe a wrecker with them and other trucks maybe carrying a towbar?
I sure wouldn't do what you propose. I make about two 180 to 200 mile round trips a year and the others, the majority are just 30 to 40 mile roundtirps for parades and/or displays. It feels great to get back behind the wheel of my daily driver 4Runner when I put the deuce away at the end of the day. :beer: Maye a large tow vehicle like a used GMC topkick and add a driven front axle if ya need it.
 

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hairba11

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ok, i've got the solution for you, seeing as how you would need to replace the motor, transmission, brakes, axles, and you wanted to make the cab more comfortable, but like the looks of the military truck,

maybe you could fit the hood and grill and front fenders from a 5 ton onto a cxt?
 

Robo McDuff

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just a side note for all of you saying a civi otr tractor, the problem is it has to be able to go offroad too, and do so reliably

a recomondation if you could afford and find one a international mxt or cxt expensive but capable and comfertable
It seems the off-road is at different times than the highway work, not part of it. So get both. Get am M- 915 or a civi OTR tractor (what does OTR stands for?) for the highway work. Use the 915 for the hauling and the 813 for fun, off-road and hunting.

If you want to go further away with the 813, get a low-boy for the 915 to transport the 813 to the off-road fun places. The money you spend on upgrading the 813 to OTR work probably will cover this set-up, and after upgrading you still have a lousy highway truck which probably is no fun anymore off-road as well. And it safes you in nerves and working time. And gives you beter safety.

EDIT: Moose, your and other posts after the quoted post above maybe make this post obsolete, had not read through to the end
 
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73m819

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I don't believe that the 915, 916, 920 is designed for more then 55 mph over a LOMG distance, could be a trans, xcase, rears heat built up problem, they were designed to pull a HEAVY LOAD at a steady pace over a long distance, NOT speed.
 

XanRa

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It seems the off-road is at different times than the highway work, not part of it. So get both. Get am M- 915 or a civi OTR tractor (what does OTR stands for?) for the highway work. Use the 915 for the hauling and the 813 for fun, off-road and hunting.

If you want to go further away with the 813, get a low-boy for the 915 to transport the 813 to the off-road fun places. The money you spend on upgrading the 813 to OTR work probably will cover this set-up, and after upgrading you still have a lousy highway truck which probably is no fun anymore off-road as well. And it safes you in nerves and working time. And gives you beter safety.

EDIT: Moose, your and other posts after the quoted post above maybe make this post obsolete, had not read through to the end
otr is over the road, made specificly for mainly highway travel long distances- the trucks you see nearly every day,
but i still say for what he wants, a crewcab unimog would be best... the again... the towing would be lacking and you still woudnt go very fast
 
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moose

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Ok, so I realise that I have some more research to do. The otr travel and off-road do happen at the same time. The ramps on the back of the dually won't work due to the size of the rail. I don't want an otr truck. I really want to get a mv and try to modify it to get as close to what I want it to do as possible, and within reason. Clearly, I will have to lower my speed expectations.
On a side note, my 66 Chevelle was never designed to have 700 hp and corner like its on rails, but after a careful build and the proper aftermarket parts it does, and it does it reliably. Well, thanks for the advice and the info from all of your previous experiences. I really do appreciate it. I will look into a m915 and 916, and the 925 as well. I am basically trying to find the best starting point for this project, and I am really excited to build a nice mv to tow, haul, and go off-road/hunting. Thanks again for the input, I'm off to do some more research.
 

91W350

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Unimog?

"i still say for what he wants, a crewcab unimog would be best"

The only way a Unimog is running that fast pulling a toy trailer is on a trailer. They are incredible machines, but not at 75 mph.
 

Preacherboy

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Why hasn't anyone suggested a deuce? 8'x12' bed, should fit a sand rail, it can pull a load and it wouldn't cost nearly as much to get 46" tires and wheels...if you want, put in a different trans and some other Cummins engine or even a DT466 (or even a multi-fuel out of a 5-ton). A ton of upgrades could be done to a deuce for under $10,000 and it could easily, safely go 65.

Once my truck gets warmed up it can go 65 easy. but like is also said, I prefer the backroads and I stay away from the interstate as much as possible. Put in a few more hundred bucks and you could make the cab quite and comfortable.
 

Alredneck

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Preacher boy, those upgrades you are talking about can be done to the 800 series for about the same cost and trouble. Except the 5tons run a 6.44:1 axle gear and your deuce is 6.72:1. So with 46in ( 395s or 15.5s ) tires the 5ton would still be faster down the road. With bigger brakes and heavy duty axles. Not to mention power steering!
 

Preacherboy

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If updating a 5-ton is as easy as a deuce, then go for it! Buy an old bus and put the engine and transmission in a 5-ton...work on quieting the cab and there you go, a 65 mph MV.
 
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