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M813 rear wheel seals

troyken

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Has anyone had issues with the wrong axel/wheel seal part number or conflicting part numbers on this truck? Our FD 5 ton has been in shop for over six weeks with a rear wheel seal issue. The guy claims he installed new seals which still leak. Apparently, another shop around 2012 had the exact same issue. This is now a problem as this truck is our high water vehicle and hurricane season is upon us. Any help , part numbers or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you.
 

Mullaney

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Has anyone had issues with the wrong axel/wheel seal part number or conflicting part numbers on this truck? Our FD 5 ton has been in shop for over six weeks with a rear wheel seal issue. The guy claims he installed new seals which still leak. Apparently, another shop around 2012 had the exact same issue. This is now a problem as this truck is our high water vehicle and hurricane season is upon us. Any help , part numbers or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you.
.
It has been a long time since I last changed oil seals, but I do remember that it was never a quick easy job. I personally would always "Test Fit" the seals on the axle before hammering them into the hub. You can't feel that fit while holding a hundred pounds of drum and cramming it onto the spindle. Hand fitting them first helps eliminate a sloppy or loose fit. That saves time and effort.

Wonder if the axle spindle has some wear on it? If so, maybe the shop could install what is called a "Speedy Sleeve" onto the spindle. OR maybe they bought the seal that should have been used with a sleeve and they got the wrong part.

Looking at the Parts TM, M809 SERIES ------------- Stand By. Replacing Information in my post

Picture on Page 235, Item #25. It calls it the Seal, Plain, Encased. Part Number -------





I don't have a M813 to go look at, but at least now you have the pictures and part number. I believe it is a Dana axle. That and a nickle is about all I have to contribute to the problem. ;-)
 
Last edited:

simp5782

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Are they using the outboard seal to separate the grease in the bearings from the oil in the axle?

so is it grease leaking or oil leaking?
 
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troyken

New member
12
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3
Location
ny
.
It has been a long time since I last changed oil seals, but I do remember that it was never a quick easy job. I personally would always "Test Fit" the seals on the axle before hammering them into the hub. You can't feel that fit while holding a hundred pounds of drum and cramming it onto the spindle. Hand fitting them first helps eliminate a sloppy or loose fit. That saves time and effort.

Wonder if the axle spindle has some wear on it? If so, maybe the shop could install what is called a "Speedy Sleeve" onto the spindle. OR maybe they bought the seal that should have been used with a sleeve and they got the wrong part.

Looking at the Parts TM, M809 SERIES ------------- Stand By. Replacing Information in my post

Picture on Page 235, Item #25. It calls it the Seal, Plain, Encased. Part Number -------





I don't have a M813 to go look at, but at least now you have the pictures and part number. I believe it is a Dana axle. That and a nickle is about all I have to contribute to the problem. ;-)
Thank you for the detailed post. I found the manual and then the parts at bigmikes motorpool. I'l printed out info and will forward to mechanic.
 

troyken

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ny
Then they aren't using the correct seal setup.

This is the outer seal. It is used on the nut side of the spindle. No gear oil is getting by 2 seals if they are installed right from the get go.
I highlighted this part on the parts diagram and will get this info to the mechanic.
 
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G744

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Yep, the notch in the end of the spindle is where a lot of leaks show up, because it wasn't properly done.

In my experience, the best thing to do is clean that notch up good with a degreaser, after everything is set with the outer seal, and pump silicone seal in there (just enough to seal up the hole).

Forget that cork deal, too many times it has failed on trucks I've worked on.

DG
 

troyken

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3
Location
ny
Don't forget to replace cork behind the outer seal. It fits in the tab groove behind the grease seal. You have to find some cork and carve it to shape. Also, some rtv sealant on the outside of the grease seal in the tab groove helps to. Here is a really good write up from jpekarek.

5 ton rear axle seal fix procedure
I can't thank you guys enough for this info. Will forward to mechanic. I'm sure he did not know these tricks.
 

Ajax MD

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Mayo, MD
Yep, the notch in the end of the spindle is where a lot of leaks show up, because it wasn't properly done.

In my experience, the best thing to do is clean that notch up good with a degreaser, after everything is set with the outer seal, and pump silicone seal in there (just enough to seal up the hole).

Forget that cork deal, too many times it has failed on trucks I've worked on.

DG
Does silicone stand up to the road heat? I feel like RTV or gasket maker might do better? I know we're not talking about engine temperatures of hundreds of degrees but...
 

troyken

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16
3
Location
ny
Update: truck has returned and is back in service with no leaks. I'm not sure how it was fixed but one of our guys went out to see it and It seems that there were some "mistakes made" by a younger mechanic, unfamiliar with the vehicle. So far , so good but we'll keep an eye on it. Thanks to all who contributed to the thread.
 
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