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M813 wheel studs.

Hammer

Hammer

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You cannot put a larger stud through the hole in the hub without machining the hub itself.
Besides, it is what the stock is anyways.
 
MASIC

MASIC

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HMMMMMM?? if I were to loosen the wheel nuts, remove the wheels, remove the buds then carry them all to a bench with a vice, walk over to my tool box and grab my grinder then back to the bench to grind off my buds by hand all crooked and create heat effected stress cracks in the buds only to go back to the truck in install them sounds like a good idea? I hope that your wheel comes off in a safe area and not in a public setting but at the same time you bang your head in the truck to knock some sense in you. Hmmmm? Innocent victim killed by reckless MV owner. Come on man! The above mentioned is close to a third of the way in time to do it right. Good luck to you!! Did you know that its law in most states to have at minimum 1 thread of the wheel stud past the wheel nut. Ask the commercial truck repair centers. If you get in a wreck you risk that your insurance company could cancel on you for idiotic mechanical repairs then get sued by the victim.

For those who are not lazy or dumb take my advice and get the right studs from Kenworth. 60 new studs (30 left, 30 right), 60 new nuts (30 left, 30 right) = $320 (cheap!) and some elbow grease = the right thing to do. While you’re at it check the wheel seals, bearings, grease levels, hub bolts and if you want flip the hubs. Verify your axle nut torque and sleep at night. I bet that 90% of you have low grease levels, poor wheel seals and rusted or F'd up brake cylinders and shoe pivots. I also bet that 99% of you have not feeler gauged your brake shoes to the drum. Think PMCS not IMDA which is short for I'M DUMB ASS.

*I YOU TAKE OFFENCE TO THE ABOVE STATED 1. I DON’T CARE and 2. I BET THAT YOU DID IT WRONG!!!

These trucks need to be maintained regularly and this is a part of the fun of owning one.
 
73m819

73m819

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"HMMMMMM?? if I were to loosen the wheel nuts, remove the wheels, remove the buds then carry them all to a bench with a vice, walk over to my tool box and grab my grinder then back to the bench to grind off my buds by hand all crooked and create heat effected stress cracks in the buds only to go back to the truck in install them sounds like a good idea? "

this is why I mentioned machining (turned down) wet, NO heat buildup, the end will be dead on square, thus NO chance of heat cracking or side load on the stud.

If your going to do this, I would get NEW buds, that way your not dealing with rust or a OVER TIGHTENED bud. (when I R/R the upper torque rods I broke 2 buds)
 
Hammer

Hammer

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Actually, I DON'T want new studs. I want to put the stock rims/tires back on this truck. So the longer studs are out.
Btw, it was with a bench grinder and a bucket of water. Not perfect, but close enough for you to pull your panties out of a bunch.
Btw, the ends are square. Actually, they were more true then the surface of the hubs due to rust/imperfections.
As for your attitude, I understand the part about safety. And with how enough stuff is done, it has a good point to be said.
Your approach on the other hand, well, just tells me a lot about you.
 
MASIC

MASIC

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Hammer said:
Actually, I DON'T want new studs. I want to put the stock rims/tires back on this truck. So the longer studs are out.
Btw, it was with a bench grinder and a bucket of water. Not perfect, but close enough for you to pull your panties out of a bunch.
Btw, the ends are square. Actually, they were more true then the surface of the hubs due to rust/imperfections.
As for your attitude, I understand the part about safety. And with how enough stuff is done, it has a good point to be said.
Your approach on the other hand, well, just tells me a lot about you.
Click to expand...
Yeah I’m the do it right once kind of guy! I did get upset reading the "how to do it in your back yard" and YES I do not support modifications of the bud nuts. Safety is very important and there might be a day where due to poor practices we as citizen might not have this opportunity to purchase MV's due to things like this and I am just defending the right of MV owners who do it right and those innocent around us. It’s one thing to do it wrong because nothing is available or in a field fix but it’s another to do it wrong out of ignorance. Just trying to help

Well it looks like I’m the Ahole once again! I’m sorry for caring
 
J

jayjetseck

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so if the other wheels that fit the 53" (combat wheels??) not the hemtts.. the original studs are fine ? my question is do the hubs need flipped in the rear or can the rims be used backwards? it looks like the offsets are the same just different center thicknesses..
 
Hammer

Hammer

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Yeah, original studs 'should' work on those just fine. It is the double thickness of the hemtt rims that require the change.

Btw, I went to a few of the local truck places. One of them had the thimbles for only $1.49 each.
So for about $90 I could get an entire new set of them to have machined down.

Not going that way with the 818, BUT, if I do it on the 920, I might do it that way if I can find a place that can machine them (or let me run the lathe.)
 
5tondeuce

5tondeuce

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Since the original studs have no tapper at the bottom and the nuts center the wheel, could you just totally machine off the double bevel on the bud cap and just end up with a straight bud cap with no bevels and let the nut center the hemtt wheel?
 
73m819

73m819

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5tondeuce said:
Since the original studs have no tapper at the bottom and the nuts center the wheel, could you just totally machine off the double bevel on the bud cap and just end up with a straight bud cap with no bevels and let the nut center the hemtt wheel?
Click to expand...
I guess you could though the budd will be weaker, takeing to much off the budd may cause bottoming of the stud
 
jollyroger

jollyroger

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So if you run the budd cap inside the wheel against the hub and the lug nut outside the wheel the wheel surface does not contact the hub and therefore is subject to greater side loading around the stud holes promoting cracking of the wheel and possible stud breakage. GR and I were talking about this on his HEMTT wheel post.

On my deuce I installed the Budd cap inside the wheel and lug nut outside. I did not realize that this spaced the wheel away from the hub surface. I am going to change this asap.

What I worry about however is using the budd cap on the outside of the wheel without a lug nut. While this would clamp the wheel to the hub I wonder if the budd cap has enough surface area to not promote the same cracking of the wheel. Dosen't the lug nut have more surface area clamping the wheel to the hub than the budd cap?......I just went outside in the dark, smelled a skunk BTW, to check the lugs on my M-817.

It looks like the coining, tapered, part of the lug nut has about the same surface area as the budd cap but I guess what I worry about is the deflection the budd cap might have. The lug nut is much thicker from coining to face than the coining shoulder on the budd cap. I get that the budd cap/lug nut is just clamping the wheel onto the hub as they are hub centric wheels but......

I know you guys have used the budd caps completely successfully but most of us don't load our trucks down like OTR semi trucks either.

Any thoughts? Am I just :cookoo:.
 
SilentSpeedy

SilentSpeedy

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That seems a helpful link, could anyone tell me what the exact size of the studs needed is?
My nuts which need a 1 1/2 inch wrench are about a half inch short of covering the lugs.
 
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