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M817 Winch Destruction...the saga continues

Rebar

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Still can't figure out why this winch drive shaft disrupted on recently acquired M817. Here is a pic of the shear pin. I think it is the real deal??? Also, here also is a pic of the end of the drive shaft showing the disruption. It just seems like it ought to be all twisted if it failed because of load or something. It is not twisted at all--even at the end. Maybe it sustained an injury that dented it and then it disrupted? Also, needless to say, I am in need of a winch drive shaft and have done the usual searches. Any ideas where to acquire?

Thanks!

RebarIMG_1894.jpgupload photo 3.jpg
 

supermechanic

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Check the drive yoke to winch shaft connection ( the place where your shear pin is). if rusted fast, the winch will turn, even without a shear pin.
I would imagine you have already removed this piece, was it difficult to remove?
 

doghead

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When one of mine failed from a simultaneous over speed and high shock load, it looked just like yours(triangulated break). The load pulled my cable out fast.

I think mine also broke at about the same length.

The driveshaft shop said the length was longer than the tube can support(based on its diameter). They really tried to get me to add a carrier bearing somehow.

I had the correct shear pin in mine as well.

I think I paid about $350 to rebuild mine.
 
Last edited:

m16ty

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The driveshaft shop said the length was longer than the tube can support(based on its diameter). They really tried to get me to add a carrier bearing somehow.
Why couldn't you get them to increase the dia.? I know you don't have enough room for that on a deuce but I think you would on a 5-ton. I wouldn't think a carrier would work very well.
 

doghead

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It's too close to the bellhousing and oilpan to go larger diameter.
 

patracy

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DH is right on that. I ended up having to shorten a 800 series driveshaft for a M51A2. I was going to try to "beef it up". Simply no room to.
 

o1951

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If really want to, could use a heavier wall tubing with same OD or stronger tubing, like chrome molly, but, since the shear pin did not shear, then you transfer the failure point to the next weakest link, which may be inside the winch itself.
 

patracy

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If really want to, could use a heavier wall tubing with same OD or stronger tubing, like chrome molly, but, since the shear pin did not shear, then you transfer the failure point to the next weakest link, which may be inside the winch itself.
Can't do that either. The yoke ends will only accept a certain ID.
 

Rebar

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Have not removed yet. Unfortunately, the truck is at my farm and I am not right now. Do you have any suggestions on how to make it easier to remove or should I just get a hammer and crowbar ready?

Rebar
 

doghead

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In the thread I linked, you can read what I did to replace my shaft. My shop was able to use the heavier wall tube.

Do not damage the yoke that the shear pin goes through. They are not readily available. Most shops can modify a new yoke to work, if needed though.
 

pyro1955

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I'm sure a good shop could use same O.D. pipe that is heavier, then they could bore the ends to accept the Yoke, that at least would allow the main portion of the shaft to be stronger. I'm in the process of adding a pto to my truck, I will be learning alot of this, hopefully not the hard way. I guess I have to read more TM's....
 
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