M880 5.2 smoke coming out of air breather inlet

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dodjh

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Location
Central, MS.
Having trouble starting and after a start, will run and then die. After several rotations of this, smoke will eventually build up in air breather.

I would guess, gasoline not burning efficiently in combustion chamber and/or carburetor and timing issues.

Anyone had this happen? Thanks
 

Tracer

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dodjh, NDT maybe right. I have found that giving the carburetor float bowl a couple gentle taps with a plastic hammer, will sometimes free up a sticking float and needle. 2cents
 

Bob H

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Change the fuel filter, I have found the rust particles from the metal fuel line can get in the seat and let fuel go by. when this has happened I would loosen the the fuel line at the fuel bowl & allow the back flow to rinse the seat. 2nd cause could be the starter relay on the fender well temporarily loosing the connection that provides power to the coil, to reset the relay disconnect the battery.
 

dodjh

Member
185
3
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Location
Central, MS.
Thanks Bob...will replace fuel filter and reset relay...I'm not clear on the fuel line at the fuel bowl...is that where the supply line goes into the Carb,

where sometimes there is a filter? Not sure if I have one there.
 

dodjh

Member
185
3
18
Location
Central, MS.
Okay...I have a clear one also before fuel pump.

Today, changed fuel filter, checked PVC valve, disconnected and reconnected battery and tapped carb. to make sure float not stuck. (seat)

Fired up and ran nice...my fuel filter wasn't filling all the way, so revved up engine to see if it would. Stayed about half full so decided I'd drive it and
see if it filled all the way up.

Was putting the air cleaner and wing nut back on and caught sight of motion to my left. Water was poring out of the right bank of the engine.
Checked it out and one of my freeze plugs blew out. The one where the trans. to engine block sits.

So I'll be working on that before I'm able to drive it. Let you know if it runs okay after that. Thanks
 

Tracer

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dodjh. When you replace freeze plugs always replace them with brass/bronze freeze plugs, you will not have to replace them again. Also, add a little Permatex around the sealing edge of the freeze plug, a little guarantee of a tight seal. Also with the freeze plug issue, check the rest of your freeze plugs for signs of leaks or corrosion, and check your coolant, If you haven't changed it in a while you probably should. Happy to hear the other problem seems to be fixed. 😁
 

dodjh

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Location
Central, MS.
...The one where the trans. to engine block sits.

Reread my post and realized this part didn't make sense. It should have been, where the support bracket from transmission to engine is.
 

Tracer

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...The one where the trans. to engine block sits.

Reread my post and realized this part didn't make sense. It should have been, where the support bracket from transmission to engine is.
I'm happy it wasn't a hard one to get at.
 

dodjh

Member
185
3
18
Location
Central, MS.
Plug is in, truck starting better, but when I put it in Drive or Reverse, it dies. Have to restart and eventually it will do better.

Haven't road driven it yet or up steep grades...maybe tomorrow if it doesn't rain, I can further test it. Found the plug that blew out

sitting inside the frame rail opposite the plugs location. It was one that you insert and tighten the nut on to swell the rubber to

seal in the opening. I believe it was the wrong size for the opening.
 

dodjh

Member
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Location
Central, MS.
Thanks Bob! I'll start doing that. I had checked the fluid before all this happened and noticed the stick saying to check in neutral.
 

Tracer

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dodjh, your getting a lot of info but it's all good. I'll add another. When was the last time the transmission was serviced ?
 

dodjh

Member
185
3
18
Location
Central, MS.
Been awhile, in fact it probably needs a rebuilt since I'm having to add fluid fairly often.

On another note, I have a PTO gear box for the 203 TC plus drive line for it. Have you ever installed one for your truck?
 
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