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M916 5th wheel swap

Artisan

Well-known member
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Location
CDA Idaho
I need to put a 2" 5th wheel plate on my new M916 that came stock w/ a 3.5" plate.

I "THINK" the proper corse of action is to;

1- REMOVE THE 2 REAR RAMPS
2- REMOVE THE 3.5" PLATE
3- REMOVE THE OE 5TH WHEEL LOWER ASSEMBLY
4- REMOVE THE SPACER UNDER 5TH WHEEL

So now I am down to a bare frame. So I "THINK" the next
corse of action if I want to keep my 5th wheel lower assembly
that will bolt directly to the frame W/O DRILLING HOLES, would be;

1- BOLT THE OE 5TH WHEEL LOWER ASSEMBLY TO FRAME
2- BUY THIS PICTURED PLATE

safholland.jpg
3-BUY THE 2 NORMAL PINS FOR THIS PICTURED PLATE AND
HAVE A MACHINEIST TURN ME 2 BUSHINGS SO THE SMALLER
PINS FIT IN THE LARGER OE BASES's HOLES
4-BUILD NEW RAMPs and call it done, BUT,

A buddy of mine is making a frankentruck and he has a couple of
2" 5th wheel plates assemblies, w/ their lower halves that I can pick up for a song.

One appers to be oscillating and the other appears to be non oscillating.

The lower halves of the 2" plates, their bolt holes do NOT align to the OE
holes in my frame. So I would have to drill more holes in my frame if
I used either of these units complete.

Should I take the plate from the 2" Oscillating assembly or the non oscillating assembly and attach it
to the lower half of my OE plate and turn bushings? I "THINK" one or the other is
the thing to do.

Here are pics of the two 2" 5th wheel assemblies available to me;

2" OSCILLATING

PICTURE 1
PICTURE 2
PICTURE 3
PICTURE 4
PICTURE 5

2" NON OSCILLATING

PICTURE 1
PICTURE 2
PICTURE 3
PICTURE 4
PICTURE 5
PICTURE 6

I want to keep my 3.5" plate and have the option to go back to a 3.5" plate
someday if I run into a big trailer cheap.

TIA! I need guidance. Nothing in the TM's on tis, I looked! HA!
 

Artisan

Well-known member
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Location
CDA Idaho
Porky I do not believe those devices to be DOT approved.
For in the field on a guys farm I see no issue, I appreciate the input though, thank u.
 

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Camp Wood/LC, TX
The 2" oscillating unit looks like it uses the same slider base as the 3.5" unit? Maybe you can just switch out the top part, i.e. the trunnions and the plate? Some study of the Holland Hitch online catalog might shed some light on this. Would be cheaper than buying the 2" plate new.
 

goodguyzy

Active member
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Location
medford oregon
I put on a 2" fontaine slider I got from the wrecking yard. It lined right up with the old angle brackets. I did have to drill some new holes but most of them lined up.
 

Hawssie

New member
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Location
Clayton, California
I have put complete fifth wheels on bare frame trucks a few times and it was always pretty easy. I would think just starting with a complete unit would be easier and cheaper if you buy it used.. By the way does anyone know if the 3.5" size is standard on all military equipped 5th wheel trucks, even the 931s/932s?
 

Castle Bravo

Hundredaire Socialite
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Arizona
I have put complete fifth wheels on bare frame trucks a few times and it was always pretty easy. I would think just starting with a complete unit would be easier and cheaper if you buy it used.. By the way does anyone know if the 3.5" size is standard on all military equipped 5th wheel trucks, even the 931s/932s?
The 5 ton tractors have 2" fifth wheels, and the larger trucks have mostly 3.5" kingpin fifth wheels - M123s, M911s, M916s/920s, M1070s, etc.
 

Hawssie

New member
157
0
0
Location
Clayton, California
Thats good to know, thanks as I got a m931A2 on the way. But I must have four or five loose 5th wheels laying around so I wasnt too worried, but who wants to swap one out if you dont have to. But with that said it would be nice to have a sliding 5th wheel on it....
 

goodguyzy

Active member
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Location
medford oregon
I won't be able to take pics for a few days but I put the same one on the 1070 but had to make new brackets. Its under the M1070 tech and tips thread.
 

quickfarms

Active member
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Location
Orange Junction, CA
Holland makes a replacement top plate for a 2" king pin. I will not be cheap but it is the correct way to convert it to a 2" king pin.

If you put a civilian 2" plate on the frame it will not be so easy to go back to the 3.5".

The frame height on these trucks is a little higher than the civilian truck so you may have some issues with binding on a civilian trailer.

Most civilian tractors do not have the ramps.

Incorrectly, or drilling in the wrong spot, on a frame rail will render the truck unserviceable or can lead to a cracked frame.

What trailer do you plan on towing?
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Robert you are a plethora of good info always.

Correct, I am not wanting to drill the frame for many reasons
as you stated plus some. If I can pull the top plate off
the oscillating unit and mount it to my OE bottom
half I probably will. I am off yo scope that out today.

The part I picture in post 1 w/ the serial# is the plate guys like Soni have used
in the past and I think that is what you speak of.

I think the process is to pull the 3.5 and set in
the 2" oscillating unit and insert bushings to fit the smaller pins
inside the larger pin holes.

Ramps come off, I might lower them the width of the spacer I pull
at a later date.

First trailer will probably be a 13'-0" 28-29' pup or a 20' Chassis trailer
for a 20' can. In the future who knows but I will be able to custom
mod the neck of anything later. yes, height is an issue, I am not
sure yet if a 13-0 trailer will work. Any ideas of where to find trailer
dimensional specs?

Robert who around here is hands down an expert at building
trucks, swapping and replacing plates etc. ?
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Anyone (like me) who is learning how to do all this, I suggest
you CLICK HERE and read this document. It is VERY informative.

I have been discussing this truck w/ SafHolland engineering and
we think we have decided on parts that make this truck
the most versatile.

Indeed others in the past have come up w/ a plate that will work
but that plate does "X". I want to do "X+X+X" ;-)


In a nutshell, a 2" Kompensating 5th wheel plate, w/ side only oscillating lockouts,
with slider. The forward most position of kingpin centerline will be
the stock placement which is 8" forward of bogie centerline and perhaps
a 48" (or greater) slider to the rear so a guy can move lighter trailers or
when off road be able to move things WAY back so as not to bind.

The M916 is 74.5" from rear of roller to centerline of kingpin!
It is 50" from ground to top of frame!
It is one BAD mamajamma!

Looks like maybe a 13' tall trailer might work. Were working on it.

It will take a few weeks to do much so stay tuned if your interested
plus my pocketbook says I may only be able to take baby steps,
we shall see.
 

jesusgatos

Active member
2,689
28
38
Location
on the road - in CA right now
Want to put a 2" top plate on the stock oscillating 5th wheel mount on one of our M916A1's and the local truck parts place says Jost part number jsk37hjst is an aftermarket replacement for the Holland part referenced here, costs $800, and should bolt on. Can anybody confirm that?
 
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