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What bypass fitting are you referencing? I could not see what you did in the pic with the circled things.
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The bypass (Probably wrong name) would be the one valve at the end of the hard return line from the head.What bypass fitting are you referencing? I could not see what you did in the pic with the circled things.
That is called a pressure reduction cylinder. It just slows the return flow down. You can ditch it which should be done anyway. The return line should go from the Head to a T which splits into a pump return and return to the tank.The bypass (Probably wrong name) would be the one valve at the end of the hard return line from the head.
Thanks for the info!! Trying to decide if it's the injectors or pump. Don't think all the injectors could go south at the same time plus when I pinched off the return line I got smoke but no fire so I think the injectors are trying. I may end up popping the injectors out to see if crap got in the screens. Trying to avoid rebuilding a PT pump that worked in the truck I pulled it from. May also just pull the supply fuel line and set it in a jug of diesel to discount down stream problems.That is called a pressure reduction cylinder. It just slows the return flow down. You can ditch it which should be done anyway. The return line should go from the Head to a T which splits into a pump return and return to the tank.
Those cylinders are known to gunk up and cause issues. They were removed on trucks that saw engine modifications.
Go to your local hydraulic shop and get a 1/8" NPT to #4 female union. You want a #4 male JIC to # 4 male JIC 90 degree fitting. a hydraulic hose with # 4 female JICs on each end and about 36 inches long overall. You want a 1/8 NPT male to 1/8 NPT female shut off valve. and a 1/8" NPT to #4 male JIC 90. This will eliminate the metal line going to the pump. You need to ensure your feed line is good going to the engine. lAll of those fittings will replace your metal line from your IP to the front of the head.
If you have not replaced your main filter to IP feed line then you should do that as well while you are at the hydraulic shop
Hi WesThe direct feed with a new line is the best measure to start. You can pull the valve cover and ensure they are moving. and use a listening device to see if they are firing when the engine is spinning over.
Used more Starting Fluid than I care to think about. When the rain comes and goes I'll jump on top and check the cam then pull the injectors. 15 minute job, right?I think he has used a bunch so far....
Over,
It sounds like you had two problems? A leaky return line and gummed up injectors? For cold starts (32F and colder), my truck wants exactly what the dash data plate says- "Apply 1/3 foot throttle." It definitely does not like more than that. The warmer the temps, the less pedal it wants.
Your videos are a great help! Need to go thru some I saw that addresses other issues I have on the trucks. Shortens the learning curve! Thanks again!Should fire at no throttle with a good fuel system. Some ether may be used if below 32 degrees
Understand! Wish this thread was up when my Gremlins started showing up. The world needs test dummies and I got elected to this one, lol!Heh, the reason I asked for confirmation of your solutions is to shorten my own learning curve. I'm not having any problems *yet* but it's probably only a matter of time so the more knowledge I absorb now, the less painful it'll be later...