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M923a2 battery relocate and 12v alternator add on

bjsmith

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zachary,la
Decided to relocate my battery's from under seat to toolbox on side and add 2 batteries and 12v alternator to run all my 12v stuff. The alternator is 160 amp Leece Neville on homemade bracket that sandwiches between original alternator bracket and engine.uploadfromtaptalk1404778635581.jpguploadfromtaptalk1404778655657.jpguploadfromtaptalk1404778673632.jpguploadfromtaptalk1404778683999.jpguploadfromtaptalk1404778699615.jpg
 

61sleepercab

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Walton, West Virginia
Neat setup...... how thick plate can you weld with that 160 amp alternator???? I have seen those on ambulances with lots of lights and power converters and you will have no problem with power.
 

Hawssie

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Clayton, California
Thats a nice setup. Did you nail the right length belt the first time? I was just going through how the M1070 system works and wonder if it would be a good choice for you. Probably not since you added an additional 2 batteries. Since the M1070 only uses the normal 4 it needs to be set up the way it is. Which is to have the 12v alternator charge 2 of the 12v batteries, one from each of the two 24v series connected sets, and while also charging them normally with the 24v alternator through the series connections along with the other two.
 

capnkirk

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6
Location
Miami, OK
Good thread! Can you post more pics of the bracket and give some details? Part # for the pulley?
 
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bjsmith

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zachary,la
The lower bracket is just 3x3 1/4" angle iron sandwiched between stock alternator mount and engine. The angle iron had some threaded steel blocks that I welded to it in correct location. Top its just 1/4" flat bar 1" wide with bend on one end that mounts to existing bolt on radiator support. Will try to get more pics tomorrow.
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
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Location
Livonia, MI
You guys do really well with all of this. I like to see the batteries bolted down, etc.... As a starter and alternator guy myself, and working for said company, I beg to ask, why the obsession with adding so much battery and/or alternator capability to a vehicle where the only real load is the headlights and maybe the heater blower if on hi? Especially with an A2 8.3, that engine starts quick. I threw 2, well really all 4, of my stock batteries out the window (smittyjr355 caught them), and dropped down two 2 group 31's to gain storage room under the pass seat. Even with that, I can start the truck at 0F with no block heater and no starting fluid. If it is just a more=better thing, I get it, and do it also sometimes. Enough said. But if there is a specific reason, I'm interested in learning that too. I watched a battery explode once during cranking, and I am just scared to death of them now, and understand why they are always encased in a steel somehow. For me, less is better, down to what you need. BJS, your lower additional bracket looks great. Nice work on that. I am doing the same to add a serpentine driven A/C compressor to my 925A2 (8.3L) with a cab roof evaporator (Red Dot).
 
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jda7271

New member
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Location
Logan
I'm installing a feed mixer box on my truck wich runs a 12v electric over hydraulic pump. Takes lots of amps to run.





You guys do really well with all of this. I like to see the batteries bolted down, etc.... As a starter and alternator guy myself, and working for said company, I beg to ask, why the obsession with adding so much battery and/or alternator capability to a vehicle where the only real load is the headlights and maybe the heater blower if on hi? Especially with an A2 8.3, that engine starts quick. I threw 2, well really all 4, of my stock batteries out the window (smittyjr355 caught them), and dropped down two 2 group 31's to gain storage room under the pass seat. Even with that, I can start the truck at 0F with no block heater and no starting fluid. If it is just a more=better thing, I get it, and do it also sometimes. Enough said. But if there is a specific reason, I'm interested in learning that too. I watched a battery explode once during cranking, and I am just scared to death of them now, and understand why they are always encased in a steel somehow. For me, less is better, down to what you need. BJS, your lower additional bracket looks great. Nice work on that. I am doing the same to add a serpentine driven A/C compressor to my 925A2 (8.3L) with a cab roof evaporator (Red Dot).
 

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JohnnyBM931A2

Member
877
1
18
Location
Crystal Lake, Illinois
You guys do really well with all of this. I like to see the batteries bolted down, etc.... As a starter and alternator guy myself, and working for said company, I beg to ask, why the obsession with adding so much battery and/or alternator capability to a vehicle where the only real load is the headlights and maybe the heater blower if on hi? Especially with an A2 8.3, that engine starts quick. I threw 2, well really all 4, of my stock batteries out the window (smittyjr355 caught them), and dropped down two 2 group 31's to gain storage room under the pass seat. Even with that, I can start the truck at 0F with no block heater and no starting fluid. If it is just a more=better thing, I get it, and do it also sometimes. Enough said. But if there is a specific reason, I'm interested in learning that too. I watched a battery explode once during cranking, and I am just scared to death of them now, and understand why they are always encased in a steel somehow. For me, less is better, down to what you need. BJS, your lower additional bracket looks great. Nice work on that. I am doing the same to add a serpentine driven A/C compressor to my 925A2 (8.3L) with a cab roof evaporator (Red Dot).
Do you think I would be ok adding a 45amp load on a stock A2 truck with 2 group 31's? Or should I go for one of your upgraded alternators?
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
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Location
Livonia, MI
The stock alternator is rated at 60 amps, and spits out about 62 amps even at idle. A 45 amp load is ok, but the pivoting point would be how long you intend to run the load. The stock alternator has terrible cooling, especially at idle. Due to that point only, it really becomes the question. Just momentarily or even a few minutes at a time, probably ok. If continuously on for an extended long idle, your stock alternator may commit suicide. It may tolerate it if you raise the idle speed with the hand throttle when the load is on, not sure if that fits with what the load is or what you are doing with it.
 

JohnnyBM931A2

Member
877
1
18
Location
Crystal Lake, Illinois
The stock alternator is rated at 60 amps, and spits out about 62 amps even at idle. A 45 amp load is ok, but the pivoting point would be how long you intend to run the load. The stock alternator has terrible cooling, especially at idle. Due to that point only, it really becomes the question. Just momentarily or even a few minutes at a time, probably ok. If continuously on for an extended long idle, your stock alternator may commit suicide. It may tolerate it if you raise the idle speed with the hand throttle when the load is on, not sure if that fits with what the load is or what you are doing with it.
Ah. For some reason I had it in my head that the stock alternator was 100 amps :( This is for an 18,000btu cab heater, so it would be running quite a bit. That is for the high setting, but I am guessing the low setting is around 35A. Either way it sounds like I will have to upgrade my alternator. Fun.

I'm assuming the 130A alternator that you are offering has much better cooling even at idle?
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
318
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Location
Livonia, MI
It does. It has twin internal fans and is built with high quality materials. It develops 177 amps at engine speed and room temp. I have yet to grab an idle output measurement of it. I've had 2 so far, but people hunt them down and get them from me before I can install one on my own vehicle!
 

JohnnyBM931A2

Member
877
1
18
Location
Crystal Lake, Illinois
It does. It has twin internal fans and is built with high quality materials. It develops 177 amps at engine speed and room temp. I have yet to grab an idle output measurement of it. I've had 2 so far, but people hunt them down and get them from me before I can install one on my own vehicle!
Good to know. And yeah, as long as it puts out 60A or so at idle I should be fine. I really have nothing else that draws a lot of power.. Headlights are LED, so they're not a problem.
 
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