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M925a2 Power Surge

74M35A2

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I have $1000 into all brand new clutch parts, rated for it. We're going 13 speed for the win at this point. The 6 speed Allison RV trans has big jumps in gears down low, and the 2 top gears are overdrive, good for road use only. I'm eBaying it. PM if anybody wants it. Cheap.
 

Csm Davis

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The CFM of a mechanical fan is like 14x that of an electric on. That is why big rigs have not switched to them, yet. You can hear and feel the difference comparing them.
Yeah but do you really need a airplane propeller pulling air through your radiator? Or would 4 24v fans be more than enough? I know for a fact that running down the hwy that a proper operating cooling system on a stock 939A2 the fan isn't needed normally, so you are looking at a worst case scenario of super hot day and heavy load in rush hour traffic in a mountain town. I might be totally wrong but I think 4 electric fans would do it just fine.

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WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
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Yes, SOME otr trucks are running electric fans. Also, all of the new New Flyer busses are electric, multi speed fan set ups. Those are on side radiator/CAC cooled ISLG engines, they run warm, way warmer than diesel, They work great, less HP robbed by a giant hydraulic pump, less noise, shorter run times.
 

74M35A2

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Livonia, MI
News to me. I have not seen electric exclusive fans in use yet on such applications, but you see a lot more of it that I do. I'm not going to electric unless space constraints drive it, but 4xdesign was able to move his radiator back 2.5" for the charge air cooler and keep his belt fan, so I should be able to do the same.

Just like a car, I would only want on OE grade electric fan if doing so. The aftermarket ones are going to have weak motors that are not going to be nearly as water resistant.

I still owe the board test start results. I had to support a customer last night vs my own endeavors.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
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How about less typing and more working. Chop chop. It should only take you 6hrs with soldiers B,C, D while E and F drink beer and point out the things your doing wrong

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74M35A2

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Livonia, MI
Here, it has an electric fan clutch. Chew on that for a bit while I am decoding this harness against the diagram. I only need power and ground, but the other connectivity will tell me what is enabled in the ECM as far as options without having to program it.
 

Attachments

74M35A2

Well-known member
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Location
Livonia, MI
Got the engine undressed today while my oldest daughter was at karate for 45 minutes. All excess unneeded external wires and hoses removed and discarded. That cleaned it up in preparation for a test run. Then removed vehicle side ECM harness and pinned it out according to the diagram above. Very straight forward. Battery power, ground, ignition switch input, magnetic vehicle speed signal, cruise control switches (clutch and brake switch inputs for it also), intake air grid heater relay output, "wait to start" and "warning" lamps, electric fan clutch control, and external coolant level switch input. J1857 and J1939 communications bus for diagnostics. Only need battery power, ground, and ignition signal input to run.

I'll take the Allison 6 speed auto trans off the engine before cranking it, so it does not puke trans fluid everywhere out its fluid cooler ports. Those are some large fittings.

IMG_1974.jpg
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
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If the ring gear is on the converter, you'll need to find a regular flywheel with the same tooth count as the Allison ring if you want use the starter that came withe your package. QSOL has no listing for a flywheel or flex plate, soooo, the starting device was supplied by the OEM as well as the ring gear and alternator. PM me if you need help with flywheel numbers for the starter you want to use, You have an SAE2 housing.

You can loop the out and in trans lines and have no issues to just test fire it.
 
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74M35A2

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Livonia, MI
GR, when it runs, come drive it, or I'll bring it down to you or a rally.

Will, thanks for the point on the ring gear possibly being on the torque converter. I never considered that, even though having seen it before. A few eBay Allison 3000 MH transmissions seem to have this exact configuration, so I assume mine does also. I already purchased a "cup" type SAE #2 14" flywheel with ring gear for when I mate this ISL to a 13 speed Road Ranger trans. It should put the ring gear at the same location, and of course I have access to starters. I will swap over my 6CTA8.3 flywheel housing and starter onto the ISL to insure the rear mounts are at the same stock location and fit. For the test start I will leave the Allison trans as you said, and get a short jumper hose made at lunch today to loop the cooler ports on it.

I know I have said this before, but I hope to conduct the first test start tonight after work. We're getting close. I'm not going to scan for fault codes yet unless the engine does not start. As long as it starts and runs seemingly properly, we'll do a full de-bug once installed into the vehicle. As it sits on the trailer currently, there will be several fault codes such as accelerator circuits open, etc... Engine seller also asked just yesterday if I cranked it up yet, so I would hope to work something out with him if there is a major issue with the engine. Fingers crossed.
 
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WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
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PM me both of the ESNs and I can tell you if the mount pads are the same. I don't think the FW hsg on the L will work on the C, the blocks are different, the service part for the block for the L is not backwards compatible to the C in the truck now
 
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74M35A2

Well-known member
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Location
Livonia, MI
Thanks Will. Hold for now, I'm going the other way with it, C housing on L engine. Block p/n change can be anything, I'm hoping bolt pattern is same. I heard dimensionally the block is the same, but stiffeners added for the higher hp. Not sure, we'll see.

Trans cooler jump hose done. 3 cheers for the guy that works at the hydraulic hose store and gives things away for free! Almost ready for lift off, except these darned plastic hosed fuel connectors. Now need to surgically cut the plastic hose off the plastic barbs, and replace with rubber hose for the test run. There is like 3 return lines on this thing.

IMG_1983.jpgIMG_1982.jpgIMG_1984.jpg

I'd better take that output yolk off, can spin even in neutral with engine running. Could flop around and hit my fender/wife/neighbor/dog/other.

Ha! I win! IMG_1985.jpg

Washed the engine a second time so far at the coin wash on way back from hydraulic shop. Some touch up flat black then a coat of tire shine and she'll look downtown!
 
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74M35A2

Well-known member
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Location
Livonia, MI
All hooked up, fuel in jug, checked oil level, disconnected drive belt, blocked trans output yolk, connected ignition wire, electric fuel pump ran, hit starter, and a 9v battery had more energy in it than this one did I brought home from work. Hold tight, we'll try again tomorrow.

UPDATE> Brought the engine with me to work today. Will try a crank up at noon today.
 
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