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M932A1 with shorter drop side deuce bed

rrrr

Member
752
0
16
Location
Missouri
Well I'm thinking about a standard trailer hitch install so I can pull about anything behind the truck. Since its a tractor normal solutions won't work. I've seen a couple of ideas that put huge plates on the back of the frame or alter the trailer itself. I'm looking for something that will look stock. This is the idea:weld 3/4 inch thick steel to the pintle base and put in a 2.5 inch receiver and weld supports that go back following the pintle structure. Limit loads to less than 15k due to the increased lever arm on the bracket.This would require removing the pintle assembly but would make it much easier to weld and set up the support structure. No relocation of lights, bolts right up with pintle assembly and no modification to the frame.
 

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maccus

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
As you know I am also looking to add a 2 inch receiver hitch to my M931A2. Been looking at ways to fab one up. This past weekend my friend the welder came over and took a look. You are right a standard hitch will not work well. One of the main problems is how to run braces to the rear and still have the needed clearance for the rear axle and its associated plumbing. Here is what he came up with. He will use heavy plate for the job. He took a spare pintle hitch with him and will fab it up at his place. Removing the trailer electric connector without having to cut the wires is something I have done many times so that is not a problem

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?101670-M931-32-2-inch-receiver-hitch

hitch.jpg
 
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GHall

New member
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Location
San Antonio/TX
Y'all let me know how the finished product comes out and if you might be interested in making an extra.. I am not much of a fabricator.
 

rrrr

Member
752
0
16
Location
Missouri
As you know I am also looking to add a 2 inch receiver hitch to my M931A2. Been looking at ways to fab one up. This past weekend my friend the welder came over and took a look. You are right a standard hitch will not work well. One of the main problems is how to run braces to the rear and still have the needed clearance for the rear axle and its associated plumbing. Here is what he came up with. He will use heavy plate for the job. He took a spare pintle hitch with him and will fab it up at his place. Removing the trailer electric connector without having to cut the wires is something I have done many times so that is not a problem

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?101670-M931-32-2-inch-receiver-hitch

View attachment 406834
That's kinda what I'm thinking. I would use a 3/4 steel drop plate that would be welded to the pintle assembley. It would be an inch wide on both side of the pintle and drop down below the pintle about 15 inches then cut a 2.5 inch square out and insert the hitch. Then make to more plates with the 2.5 inch square one on the end and one in the middle to support the hitch. Weld it all to the pintle and then put reinforcing plates on the assembly. I'm not looking to add any other supports to make it removeable with the pintle assembly.
 

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rrrr

Member
752
0
16
Location
Missouri
Not having a lot of luck finding a local pintle assembly. Does anyone know if you have to disassemble the trailer connector to get the pintle off or does the front face plate come off allowing you to pull the cable out the back intact ?
 

Carlo

New member
1,364
20
0
Location
palazzago italia
Well I'm thinking about a standard trailer hitch install so I can pull about anything behind the truck. Since its a tractor normal solutions won't work. I've seen a couple of ideas that put huge plates on the back of the frame or alter the trailer itself. I'm looking for something that will look stock. This is the idea:weld 3/4 inch thick steel to the pintle base and put in a 2.5 inch receiver and weld supports that go back following the pintle structure. Limit loads to less than 15k due to the increased lever arm on the bracket.This would require removing the pintle assembly but would make it much easier to weld and set up the support structure. No relocation of lights, bolts right up with pintle assembly and no modification to the frame.
That looks nice! I would expect no less from you Captian!
 

bigboy44

Member
409
2
18
Location
Ava, MO.
I don't think my rubber mud flaps are up to holding much ;-)
Awesome Truck, great workmanship I like it. I was thinking of bobbing a tractor but your truck looks great and a lot less work. Can you post more pics of the rear. I would like to know what section of the bed did you take out, could you give me measurements please. Thanks
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
High guys...I'm new to the site and have just purchased two "84" 5 ton Am Generals which were "rebuilt" and have the single tires. One I may bob, so I'm studying the rear suspension and looking at air bags. It appears the intermediate axle and spring removal would leave a place to put a fourth member (from the front axle) and a new mount for the bags (or bag) fabricated. On mine I want a center mounted knuckleboom and to shorten the bed (as a dump). Should pull a trailer (or my sawmill) great. The other will get a dump, but no shortening of the bed, with one foot of frame taken back and remount of the pintle.
 
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rrrr

Member
752
0
16
Location
Missouri
Not going to do a dump bed on the truck. Its been over a year with all the mods and the truck has performed wonderfully.
I took it to our local mudfest and I used the truck non-stop pulling out mud trucks and everything else. I might add a transmission cooler, I did give the truck a tough workout. It took me 4 hours to get most of the mud off !
Check out the video around 15 seconds in:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uii3H7FyIZE&feature=youtube_gdata_player
 
167
18
18
Location
NW Missouri
I have enjoyed seeing your progress as you personalized this truck and made it "yours". Your attention to detail and craftsmanship with this build is to be commended. I see you've offered it for sale in the classifieds section; the new owner is going to be a proud new owner.
 

rrrr

Member
752
0
16
Location
Missouri
I have enjoyed seeing your progress as you personalized this truck and made it "yours". Your attention to detail and craftsmanship with this build is to be commended. I see you've offered it for sale in the classifieds section; the new owner is going to be a proud new owner.

Thanks for the nice comments. With 4 MV's to take care of my wife has been very patient. So when I mentioned another project she said ok so what ya going to sell ?

I'm thinking about another WW2 vehicle. I'm just about done with my 1943 WC52 and need something to keep my "attention." :-D

Here's a pic of my WC..
 

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Desertrun

New member
10
0
0
Location
Nevada
Well joining the Club. Won or Lost? (GL-Bid) depends how you look at it. You have done what I planned on doing. Were did you find the bed to cut down. Working out shipping my M931A2 Tracker here now.
 

rrrr

Member
752
0
16
Location
Missouri
Look in the classified section and make a post in the wanted section. I'm sure someone near you has one sitting around.
 

Rokonguy

New member
5
0
0
Location
Drasco, Arkansas
rrrr, I may have missed it but wonder-have you compared the spring stack on the rear of your truck with some of the others that started as a cargo truck? I like the idea of the tructor; no frame cutting may technically make it possible to go back to a tractor should the need/desire arise too. I do not think I would carry enough to work those springs too often though, if they are heavier than cargo ones. Great rig, I've enjoyed reading about it! I do not have a MV yet but am planning and plotting...
 

rrrr

Member
752
0
16
Location
Missouri
The rear suspension is the same on the tractors and the cargos. The difference is the wheel base is about a foot shorter on the tractors and the frame is cut closer to the rear spring mounts.
 
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