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M936 Battery relocation

hotbox

New member
50
0
0
Location
Charlotte, NC
Sometimes my M923 starts right up, sometimes it don't. I plug it in to a 24v jumper and it fires. I guess one or more of the original batteries are toast. I think I'm gonna do the two batteries in the side box trick. Have the batteries. Also have several adjustable hummer buckets and a 12v center console made out of an ammo can. Whatcha gonna put in that old slave hole?
 

bigboy44

Member
409
2
18
Location
Ava, MO.
Sometimes my M923 starts right up, sometimes it don't. I plug it in to a 24v jumper and it fires. I guess one or more of the original batteries are toast. I think I'm gonna do the two batteries in the side box trick. Have the batteries. Also have several adjustable hummer buckets and a 12v center console made out of an ammo can. Whatcha gonna put in that old slave hole?
Going to cover it with a piece of sheet metal or a dummy slave recipitical and put a dunce cap decal above it. What you think?
 

bigboy44

Member
409
2
18
Location
Ava, MO.
Sometimes my M923 starts right up, sometimes it don't. I plug it in to a 24v jumper and it fires. I guess one or more of the original batteries are toast. I think I'm gonna do the two batteries in the side box trick. Have the batteries. Also have several adjustable hummer buckets and a 12v center console made out of an ammo can. Whatcha gonna put in that old slave hole?
On the starts and no starts, on my GMC Duramax that means I have a bad battery!
 

bigboy44

Member
409
2
18
Location
Ava, MO.
Went to the welding supply yesterdayand seen a glove protector that I thought would protect my wires from the heat of the exhaust pipe and this is what I did. I wraped one shield around the positive wire and secured it with tie raps on each end and a radiator hose clamp in the middle, I cut a piece of rubber hose and split it down the middle and put it around the cable where it was touching the air line fitting and taped it up real good. I then took another heat shield and raped around the ground and the positive wire for added protection. I could not find out what the shields are rated for heat wise but it has to be better than nothing!:tank:2013-03-12 M936 Battery Wire Heat shield 001.jpg2013-03-12 M936 Battery Wire Heat shield 002.jpg2013-03-12 M936 Battery Wire Heat shield 003.jpg2013-03-12 M936 Battery Wire Heat shield 004.jpg
 

D3M0N

New member
37
0
0
Location
Baldwinsville, NY
I'd be interested to see how the cables are run, I just built a battery box to replace the existing cab and now I just need to move the batteries. Also I am looking to switch over to two Group 31 batteries. I'm on a learning curve with these vehicles so any help would be awesome!
 

D3M0N

New member
37
0
0
Location
Baldwinsville, NY
Those "hot hands" are for use when welding with Flux Cored wire which runs HOT. I've smoked up gloves doing multi-pass welds on beams and after cooking my hand a few times I tried the hot hands and the worked really well. I don't know what their rating is but they can take some serious heat, so they should work well protecting those cables.
 

Vintage iron

Active member
1,123
16
38
Location
Falmouth Ma.
I just finished parting out my M813 and had put new battery cables on it a year ago! Since the M813 has the batteries under the passengers side door, they will work perfect! Good thing I did this modification the m923 cables and wires where a mess! The hard part is getting the insulated brackets off the bottom of the cab. After that you can get to everything easy. I made sure to clean up all contacts and route the new cables and wires in a protective loom. I will be putting the batteries in the box on Monday.
 
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bigboy44

Member
409
2
18
Location
Ava, MO.
Those "hot hands" are for use when welding with Flux Cored wire which runs HOT. I've smoked up gloves doing multi-pass welds on beams and after cooking my hand a few times I tried the hot hands and the worked really well. I don't know what their rating is but they can take some serious heat, so they should work well protecting those cables.
I drove the truck about 75 miles with no issues to the hot hand glove protectors. I too have had fingers in the gloves srivvel up due to the heat from 1/4 inch jet rods and goughing rods.
 

jonesal

Mission Specialist
Steel Soldiers Supporter
413
69
28
Location
Brookings, SD
The battery relocation kit does not call for insulating the wires near the exhaust. The directions that came with the kit have the wires going back much further (rearward) that what you have done, resulting in adequate distance from wire to pipe. I've checked mine a couple of times and the wires get much warmer from general heat from the engine/transmission, than from the exhaust. I suppose if you were idling lots in traffic or a parade, it might be something to watch.

Al Jones
 

D3M0N

New member
37
0
0
Location
Baldwinsville, NY
When you switched over to the two battery set up how did you run your spare positive cable? I know the spare negative needs to be grounded, I was thinking of just doubling up the positive cables on one connector. Does anyone see a problem with that?
 

hotbox

New member
50
0
0
Location
Charlotte, NC
Just did the battery relocation. I need some grommets for the back of the box, so the edge doesn't wear through the cables. Took about 5 hours. Pulling the seat and bench tomorrow. batbox.jpgbatbox2.jpgbatbox3.jpg
 

bigboy44

Member
409
2
18
Location
Ava, MO.
I used a hose to wrap around my wires and taped them good, I also used the knockouts that were in the box and I could not find grommets big enough to fit the knockouts! That tool box is so much easier to get to the batteries than under the seat in my opinion!
 
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