M936 Front Winch Issues

[Csm Davis]

Re-man in steel for side pull great idea if planning on that need.
Consider though, the front winch is only designed for self recovery - generally done in a straight line or not much from it (or anchoring for rear winch recovery), so the fair lead is absolutely not strong enough for anything else than as a guide up to +-10deg from straight (rigging/recovery TM has specs)

How many times are you going to get stuck off angle to the road you are traveling? Most of the time I end up facing away from whatever I could use to hook to.

 

[zebedee]

Front bumper/winch side pull



I can expand on the bumper brackets idea if you need - I think added lift/tow shackle mounts mounted on the bottom would make an obvious start point - good in both tension and compression, where as the ground spade pockets only work in compression since the pin is not very structural ( purely for retrieval of burried spade ).

An "egg timer" type roller could be used instead of the snatch block, similar to a logging arch fairlead on a logging dozer.

 

[zebedee]

Having to side pull - self recovery

............ Most of the time I end up facing away from whatever I could use to hook to.

That is where you get out your 10 lb sledge hammer (BII) and hammer in the ground anchors for a straight pull back to the road/hard surface.... wait, OH NO!, ground anchors got dropped from the BII before the 816, woe is me, what is one to do???

I guess you could use the exact length of spare cable with a 'made off ends' and a snatch block off of something to the side that would hold the snatch block in the right position..... As if!

This is not a 'dig' at you Jeff, but sarcasm at the TM/military practices/budget cuts etc...


OK - What the heck is the standard colour of the text? None seem to match the starting colour!!!! After doing the bold red, I can't return it to original... Even cut n paste doesn't work.. Hmmmmpffffff.

 

[Csm Davis]

Yeah bud have wanted some type ground anchor many times, also I think I am going to try to make a Steel fairlead as soon as I can get rid of all this scrap MV stuff here at my place. It will also go across from side to side to help tie the sides of the winch together so the side load doesn't pull the side of the winch out of place.

 

[Csm Davis]

View attachment 373143

I can expand on the bumper brackets idea if you need - I think added lift/tow shackle mounts mounted on the bottom would make an obvious start point - good in both tension and compression, where as the ground spade pockets only work in compression since the pin is not very structural ( purely for retrieval of burried spade ).

Have been kicking this idea around awhile, but are the shackle mounts as strong in compression as the pockets? If they are I am thinking about changing the ends of my spades to tow bar ends in fact why not make one set of bars that will work for both? Just change out the ends, it would help on storage and that's always a plus on a wrecker.

 

[Csm Davis]

On second thought why not just pull the bumpers off the back and use the stock rear shackle point and just add the lower fronts? The front shouldn't be a problem because the mounts are stronger than the front winches. The rear would be pushing more on the frame, not the bolts and should hold the weight no problem, dang more mods to my poor hacked up wrecker, lol...

 

[zebedee]

.......... changing the ends of my spades to tow bar ends in fact why not make one set of bars that will work for both? Just change out the ends, it would help on storage and that's always a plus on a wrecker.

Nice idea - though you'd have to come up with something clever for the pintle end of the towbar... I can think on that one - yet another nuisance sketch! Though a double width spade foot would be do-able - triangles stronger than two straight bars, except for a diagonal rear side pull needing one aft and one sideways. Also you'd maybe have to add side thrust shackle mounts for your front side pull...... Too many questions!

BUT... speaking of saving space/weight... Kind of a thread cross link... "wrecker bed mods" etc.

Question - operationally speaking, how many stabiliser/boom support feet do we need?

When heavy lifting: boom support legs and closest two stabilisers (by the book that is, since the stabilisers don't actually help) - so 4
Slew and lighter lifting : all four stabilisers - so again 4

Yet we carry 6, allbeit that they aren't the same. However, if you were to convert the 4 stabiliser feet to M819 rears (detatchable - just like the boom support ones) and the bottom of the boom legs to match.... A, it would cut down on the two boom support feet and B, it would clear the side of the front locker for cutting and hingeing.... Ta da - better locker access.

Chew on that one!

 

[zebedee]

On second thought why not just pull the bumpers off the back and use the stock rear shackle point and just add the lower fronts? ... The rear would be pushing more on the frame, not the bolts and should hold the weight no problem, dang more mods to my poor hacked up wrecker, lol...

Am I reading this right and thinking you need to add this side pull frame to the rear????? 'Cause you have hugh sidepull rollers at the back and only need this mod on the front...


On the other thread - does weight saving/job sharing count as body mods or should another thread be initiated - 'cause we are at DefCom 3 TeHe.

 

[Csm Davis]

I am so confused! But that's what I get for PUI! But was thinking of cutting some ends off of a tow bar and the long boom jacks and make it so you could carry one set of big a$$ legs that would serve three different jobs, boom legs,ground spades and tow bar. Have removable ends that can be swapped to do different jobs. And the reason for removing the bumpers was so I can get to the mounts to use instead of adding a set elsewhere. And yes we are blending the two threads, guess I am stuck on modding my truck, like a pitbull with a bone I just can't let it go.

 

[Rescue101]

Adjust the control cable OR Drill a 3/8's hole where the control handle bottoms out and use a air hacksaw to connect the slot to the hole. That gives you more throw and you can now winch in

 

[Csm Davis]

Adjust the control cable OR Drill a 3/8's hole where the control handle bottoms out and use a air hacksaw to connect the slot to the hole. That gives you more throw and you can now winch in

Hey you do realize this is 5 years old?

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