M939 Front Axle Boot replacement.....how I did it.....

[Ford Mechanic]

Thanks, I think you have a good idea on not filling it with grease, it can only lead to blowing the boot again. I think that sure it needs grease but not t extreme, hopefully what packing I did when installing the new boot will be enough. Maybe I'll pull both plugs and stick something like a zip tie in and see how deep the grease is and go from there. The TM's are full of great info but things like this are a pain in the a$$ to find

There's also a vent on top of each knuckle that may be sticking on ya'lls then.

I was also wondering about the oreintation of the boot, cause the one I've gotten has the clamp groove on one side ( which I know should face the knuckle) but the fabric side of the zipper on the other!!!! And the TM specifically calls for the fabric side of the zipper faceing the knuckle!!! What gives?? I'll check mine good when I get home in case it shows the same as Artisan's.

 

[mcmud]

I need to do this on my truck, I was going to order it from memphis like the OP did. I noticed at check out that shipping is almost as much as the part. Is there any other options to purchase one of these? I can't find these very easily, also don't want to buy the wrong size!

 

[MtnSnow]

Look at Big Mikes Motor Pool for the boots. He has a website as well as a store on the big E auction site

 

[bogshotrods]

I did mine a couple months ago ( maybe 2 or 300 miles) and it was a pain and yea it's easier with more than 2 hands, but now it's torn again and I'm not sure why any ideas out there about that. I know for sure it seated right and new wire clamp. Thinking it might be that the steering stop bolt needs to be adjusted so it doesn't turn so tight ?????? anyway I'm going to do it again tomorrow if it warms up

 

[tim410]

Subscribed

 

[gottaluvit]

Subscribed

 

[frank8003]

replacements for soldier "B"
clamps vise grips + 11/32" nut driver

Is it the same on Deuce and 5 ton boots?

post 3517 in here
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ce-this-week&p=1714061&viewfull=1#post1714061

 

[tow2gunner]

Just did the boots in my 90 m923a2.
Thanks for all the posts here, and pics...
Only took me a week, and I ruined 1 boot...
(I have M.S. And did this all myself!)

Old boots were very , I believe crispy is the term someone used!
For an IT guy, this was very intimidating, but extremely easy to do.
Thank god my axle seas weren't bad!
Thanks to all who posted advice here.

Sent from my VK700 using Tapatalk

 

[WYomer]

The bottom and top grease zerks are for greasing the king pins.
To grease the ball part of the axle you need to remove the Allen screws in it and pump it in that way.
The LO page above shows it as "L"

I didnt use the allens to grease. When I had it all apart to do the inner seal I saw that the 4 big bolts go all the way through just like the allens. So I had those off anyways and its a bigger hole. Just take the zerk end off a grease gun and shoot a tube of HD grease in that bolt hole and reinstall bolt.

 

[Buffalobwana]

Sort of an old thread, but, I have something to add.

Next time I do this, I am duct taping my thumbnail to my thumbs. You wind up pushing that little ring into place with some serious force (because you are afraid to loosen the ring too much or the whole thing will pop off) like the OP said "it's a feeling thing" or something like that. Your thumbs will thank you. My thumbs hate me. And will take a few days to heal back to the nail.

As for filling it with grease, we know grease came out, we see it on the tires, under the truck, so, I'm betting some grease needs to go back in. How much??? That's also probably a feeling thing. Here is the easiest way I have found to get grease or any substance in a place it doesn't want to go easily. Have used this method with epoxy or bondo too.

I use the "pastry chef" method.

Fill a ziplock with appropriate amount of grease (I scooped a few handfuls out of the axle grease tub and put it in a ziplock. Then purge air. Push all grease down to one corner, Then twist up and cut the corner off the bag, stick the corner far up into the space in the knuckle and twist the bag and squeeze the bag to get the grease to go back inside the knuckle housing.

 

[M35A2-AZ]

Nice!! Thanks

 

[Tinstar]

My turn for boots.
Have brand new USA made zipper boots.
Seems like a straightforward job.

Do I have to buy new wire clamps or can I reuse the old ones?

 

[M35A2-AZ]

You can reuse the clamps.

 

[Tinstar]

Perfect
Thanks!

 

[Rzchurch]

Thanks to all of you Steel Soldiers that take the time to share your wisdom and errors on here. I have yet to get a question answered by searching and reading. I am new to owning a 5 ton but not to getting dirty so thanks again.

 

[Floridianson]

My turn for boots.
Have brand new USA made zipper boots.
Seems like a straightforward job.

Do I have to buy new wire clamps or can I reuse the old ones?

I found sometimes it's easer to use a new longer bolt on the clamp and cut off extra when done I like the clamps that have the guide built on the ring so just at the end when you tighten the ring the boot does not get bunched up.

 

[Tinstar]

Thanks to all of you Steel Soldiers that take the time to share your wisdom and errors on here. I have yet to get a question answered by searching and reading. I am new to owning a 5 ton but not to getting dirty so thanks again.

I usually read the old threads in my spare time.
Amazing what you come across.
You will find answers to questions you haven’t even thought of yet.

 

[Camp Kirtland]

First post to the group so hopefully this is ok.....

I had to replace my boots, bought the zipper boots and sized up the problem. I did several test installs and had "trouble" keeping the ring in the groove and getting everything to work right, so the light bulb went on!!! Why not replicate the set up. So I measured the ring diameter and created a 3D model of the groove on the axle, I the then print the two piece model on my printer (picture included), I also printed a bolt with a hole through and added a Zirc fitting to "inject" grease through the inside upper bolt for the cover as its drilled through.

With my two piece 3D pre install fixture i pre assemble the boot and ring outside the cavity in the middle of the axle. I was able to RTV the zipper and over lapping boot to the final assembly position, I also put a small bead of RTV into the ring groove on the boot to retain the ring. I drew up the ring until it was snug and let the whole thin sit for 24 hours.

When it was time for final assembly all I did was loosen the ring, pop out my pre-assembly rig, pushed the boot and ring up on to the retention groove on the axle, aligned the holes on the boot, bolted on the retainer ran the wire through the screws... less than 1/2 hour...

Screwed in my Zirc fitting bolt and pumped away.... job done...

Hopefully my dialog make sense.


Pre assebmly ring Profile of ring Zirc bolt
.

 

[timgc78]

I bought mine from Memphis as well. I thought they were high quality units. I followed the TM and sealed the zippers and let them set over night, and then mounted. The TM calls for safety wire, especially at the torque of the retaining rings (which is very low). Note with proper safety wire technique, they should not loosen at all.

I took pictures of the boot I took off and the Memphis one - will try to find them and post. Same zipper manufacturer, different boot manufacturer, different attachment style - one was sown, one was heat bonded.

Al Jones
84 M923

How do you seal the zipper?

 

[topo]

How do you seal the zipper?

Rud silicone over the zipper when your done