Still having air issues, now of another sort.
I took it for a few drives to get it up to operating temperature and the air performance was excellent. We were thinking unsticking the unloader would be the end of our air problems. Everything was working normal. Blowing off at 120+, maintaining much better pressure. When on the brakes heavy, the secondary would remain higher than the primary.
Then I take it for a quick drive today and the pressure built well at idle. After I leave I'm watching the gauges, and it builds to 150 on the secondary and 130+ on the primary before blowing off. I pump the brakes to get them both back down under 120, and they build back to the same 150 & 130. During the previous drives it blew off at around 120-130 and both tanks would read the same at that time.
Also the wipers stopped working, first time. Before, the right one would always actuate one cycle and park when the air built to around 60. Now it is hanging down and neither will function. When the switches are turned on there is no air sound like there used to be.
I also discovered the round hand adjustment valve on the bottom forward end of the wet tank is seeping air. It's so little that I had to use soapy water to find it, but I could hear it when I shut it down. The air is coming from under the round adjustment handle.
Now I'm wondering...
1. What changed with the air pressure building higher than it did? Is 150 on the secondary too high? I don't want to run over pressure and blow something out in the air system. Would the unloader still sticking/failing cause this? The air dryer and governor are both new. The seller of the governor indicates they are preset to 90-120 which seemed accurate before today.
2. I thought I read about an emergency accessory cut off valve that actuates if the air is low. Could this being stuck in the cut off position be the reason for my wipers having no air?
3. Is there a way to tighten the leaky hand valve to stop the seeping air?
Thank you for any guidance.
