M998 60 Amp to 200 Amp Alt upgrade?

[Mario]

Please ignore that wire on that drawing. Either leave it open (no wire connected, period), or run an 8 AWG wire back to the positive stud of the REAR battery in order to offer a 14V charging system (good for if you have multiple 12/14V accessories plugged in, to keep the batteries balanced). There's a technical guide at the CE Niehoff website that explains the correct way to make that connection, if needed.

Thank you.
Is standard 90°C rated wire sufficient?

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[Wire Fox]

Thank you.
Is standard 90°C rated wire sufficient?

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Up to you where you buy it from (you can find way better prices than what I'm linking), but this brand of wire met every spec that I needed, including oil/chem/heat resistance, plus the wire itself is tinned and will reduce the liklihood of corrosion down the line if the jacket is compromised: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor--primary-wire-8-awg-25-spool--P016452674 I also installed mine in a conduit. To match the 200A 24V cable, I put it in asphalt-coated conduit. 1/4" x 10' of that conduit will be PERFECT for the size and length of wire that you need; however, it's an absolute pain to pull that wire through the conduit (and probably impossible without a Soldier B to assist). If you want an easier job, go up to a 3/8" size for an easy feed.

 

[mechanicjim]

N1225/N1387 Alternator Installation Instructions II225A

the C.E.Niehoff instruction from their site about the N1225 state that for Dual voltage setups you run the wire to the 14v stud to the lower battery of the 24v batteries, when doing a single voltage setup you put a ground wire to the 14v stud on regulator.

basically the regulator "looks" for a resistance of a battery on that 14v stud and if it "see's" a dead short it wont output.

also dont attach loads to 14v stud attach them at batteries.

 

[Wire Fox]

N1225/N1387 Alternator Installation Instructions II225A

the C.E.Niehoff instruction from their site about the N1225 state that for Dual voltage setups you run the wire to the 14v stud to the lower battery of the 24v batteries, when doing a single voltage setup you put a ground wire to the 14v stud on regulator.

basically the regulator "looks" for a resistance of a battery on that 14v stud and if it "see's" a dead short it wont output.

also dont attach loads to 14v stud attach them at batteries.

That is the work instruction I was referencing, but please re-check the section on single-voltage installations: there is no wire connected to the +14V stud in a single voltage application and the drawing you linked agrees with that. This was a question I had raised directly to CE Niehoff and they confirmed that you leave the +14V stud open with no connection in a single-voltage application. The military-provided instruction set is incorrect.

 

[Mario]

That is the work instruction I was referencing, but please re-check the section on single-voltage installations: there is no wire connected to the +14V stud in a single voltage application and the drawing you linked agrees with that. This was a question I had raised directly to CE Niehoff and they confirmed that you leave the +14V stud open with no connection in a single-voltage application. The military-provided instruction set is incorrect.

I talk to Niehoff this morning as well.
They did say that there were multiple versions of regulator and the current one http://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/II225A_uid6920141104561.pdf doesn't show that "grounding" wire on either dual nor single voltage setups.
I also asked him for the rated output of the 14V side and was told 50Amp.
My last question was about wire gauge for the 14V side and was told the following:
50A up to 6' = 8AWG
50A up to 10' = 6AWG

I didn't measure the length of the 200A main cable that comes with the upgrade kit, but it's got to be at least 7-8', right?

 

[Mario]

I'm going to get mine from NAPA. It's a started cable so should do well for my needs.

Still need to find power distribution box. Someone posted a setup a while ago that had both 24V and 12V terminals.
IIRC, some had regular fuses while others had the self resetting ones.
Not if I could only locate that post/parts

 

[juanprado]

I'm going to get mine from NAPA. It's a started cable so should do well for my needs.

Still need to find power distribution box. Someone posted a setup a while ago that had both 24V and 12V terminals.
IIRC, some had regular fuses while others had the self resetting ones.
Not if I could only locate that post/parts

Pulse tech distribution system.
Comes with manual reset 24v breakers and auto 12v
Same size as ato fuses so those can be used also
Pics on my thread Juans'm998

 

[Mario]

Thanks Juan.
That's exactly it.

Did you get it from eBay, such as this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/231886924178 or does someone on here sell one?

Pulse tech distribution system.
Comes with manual reset 24v breakers and auto 12v
Same size as ato fuses so those can be used also
Pics on my thread Juans'm998 

 

[juanprado]

Thanks Juan.
That's exactly it.

Did you get it from eBay, such as this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/231886924178 or does someone on here sell one?

yes, that is the critter.

 

[Mario]

yes, that is the critter.

Just ordered one with battery tester.

Thanks again.

 

[86humv]

I also just talked to an engineer at CE Niehoff.....
When using an alt. with a N3135 dual volt regulator on a single volt system [ 28vdc ]....you ground the 14 volt tap on
regulators dated before 2012, and leave 14 volt tap open on N3135 regulators dated 2012, and after.

 

[Wire Fox]

I also just talked to an engineer at CE Niehoff.....
When using an alt. with a N3135 dual volt regulator on a single volt system [ 28vdc ]....you ground the 14 volt tap on
regulators dated before 2012, and leave 14 volt tap open on N3135 regulators dated 2012, and after.

There we go, that's a solid explanation for what's going on and the difference of documentation. I wonder why that info wasn't available when I called down? Maybe I just didn't ask the right questions...

Either way, I think everyone needs to scribble this detail in their installation guides and TMs right now...

 

[NormB]

Pulse tech distribution system.
Comes with manual reset 24v breakers and auto 12v
Same size as ato fuses so those can be used also
Pics on my thread Juans'm998 

I bought one of those sets (PDU/battery tester) and already have two of the pulsetech 24V solargizers.

If you have one added, is the wiring from the solar panel DIRECT, or does it go through some type of charge regulator like the one that comes with the pulsetech unit? I'm kind of assuming (based on pouring through the online pulsetech catalog and other images) the wiring is direct, and the module/battery tester does the charging/pulse desulphating.

ALSO, and anyone can chime in here, What is the amperage output on the 12/14V side of the alternator? Might be on the regulator, I haven't scrutinized it yet, it's still in the box and freaking HEAVY.

I'm thinking 8gauge cable for about a ten foot run would be about right for up to 40A output (105c rating, conduit, inside engine compartment) per my Wiresizer app.

That's a lot of amps.

anyone?

EDIT: Erik's Military Surplus data on this alternator says 50A 14V.

Wiresizer shows 6G for a 10 foot run w/ 2-3% power drop (4AWG for 1%).

Thanks in advance. I'm about to go all-in and install the alternator, hook up the PDU/solar panel/battery tester, have a 35AH gel cell for under the rt rear pax seat, need charging cable).