Machined a replacement shift shaft for the PTO

[Engineer 1SG]

I picked up a winch, complete with everything including PTO for only $300 from a guy who was parting out an old deuce. The only downside was that everything was really rusty. In fact, the guy cut the frame just behind the steering box and loaded it right onto my trailer, frame extensions and all. I tore down the PTO to make sure everything was serviceable, and found that the shift shaft was rusted too badly to even think about sealing. I had to file off a load of rust just to disassemble the shaft from the PTO.

I have an ancient old South Bend lathe, along with a just as ancient Linley milling machine, so I set out to make a new shift shaft.

The PTO shift shaft measured 10 3/4 inches in length, and originally was .688 inches in diameter. I found 11/16" round steel rods (11/16" = .6875, close enough to .688 to suit my needs) in "Bearing Grade 303" stainless steel alloy for $9.11 for a 12 inch length.

Here is the description of the 303 stainless steel alloy from their website:

303 is used almost exclusively for parts requiring machining, grinding, or polishing where good corrosion resistance is also required. It’s non-seizing and non-galling properties make it ideal for moving parts. Being an austenitic steel, it is useful where low magnetic permeability is desired. 303 has fairly good forming properties. Used for aircraft parts, as well as shafts, gears, valves, valve trims, all types of screw machine products, bolts, screws, and machine parts, as well as architectural purposes. It is not recommended for vessels containing liquids or gases under high pressure.​

Based on the description, this seemed perfect for making my shaft, plus I never have to worry about rust again. After cutting to length, I turned down the step on each end for the boot, and drilled and tapped each end for 3/8" 24 tpi threads. One end is 1" deep, while the other is 1 1/2" deep for the shift lever rod attachment. The shift spring ball detents were milled with the side of a 1/2" end mill, while the shift lever notch was milled with the side of a 7/16" end mill, matching the dimensions of the original rod.

I plan to put the PTO back together this weekend, so I'll be able to check the shifting to ensure that I measured the position of the detents correctly. If all goes well, I'll have the winch up and working in no time.

The camera distorted the length of the shafts, but rest assured they are identical in length at 10 3/4 inches.

 

[rustystud]

I picked up a winch, complete with everything including PTO for only $300 from a guy who was parting out an old deuce. The only downside was that everything was really rusty. In fact, the guy cut the frame just behind the steering box and loaded it right onto my trailer, frame extensions and all. I tore down the PTO to make sure everything was serviceable, and found that the shift shaft was rusted too badly to even think about sealing. I had to file off a load of rust just to disassemble the shaft from the PTO.

I have an ancient old South Bend lathe, along with a just as ancient Linley milling machine, so I set out to make a new shift shaft.

The PTO shift shaft measured 10 3/4 inches in length, and originally was .688 inches in diameter. I found 11/16" round steel rods (11/16" = .6875, close enough to .688 to suit my needs) in "Bearing Grade 303" stainless steel alloy for $9.11 for a 12 inch length.

Here is the description of the 303 stainless steel alloy from their website:

303 is used almost exclusively for parts requiring machining, grinding, or polishing where good corrosion resistance is also required. It’s non-seizing and non-galling properties make it ideal for moving parts. Being an austenitic steel, it is useful where low magnetic permeability is desired. 303 has fairly good forming properties. Used for aircraft parts, as well as shafts, gears, valves, valve trims, all types of screw machine products, bolts, screws, and machine parts, as well as architectural purposes. It is not recommended for vessels containing liquids or gases under high pressure.​

Based on the description, this seemed perfect for making my shaft, plus I never have to worry about rust again. After cutting to length, I turned down the step on each end for the boot, and drilled and tapped each end for 3/8" 24 tpi threads. One end is 1" deep, while the other is 1 1/2" deep for the shift lever rod attachment. The shift spring ball detents were milled with the side of a 1/2" end mill, while the shift lever notch was milled with the side of a 7/16" end mill, matching the dimensions of the original rod.

I plan to put the PTO back together this weekend, so I'll be able to check the shifting to ensure that I measured the position of the detents correctly. If all goes well, I'll have the winch up and working in no time.

The camera distorted the length of the shafts, but rest assured they are identical in length at 10 3/4 inches.

View attachment 723481View attachment 723482

Those are some good looking parts ! Really love that you used stainless Steel. I worked for 10 years as a metal fabricator in my youth, and they made products for the Alaskan Fishing Fleet. I learned all about the advantages of using Stainless Steel.
To bad it is so expensive or we could have whole vehicles made from it ! Just think a car or truck that will never rust away !!!! A shame "DeLorean" got busted for drugs !!! At least we will always have "Back to the Future" !

 

[Welder1]

Nice work. It's satisfying to be able to make your own parts.


Eddie

 

[frank8003]

Keep your shop drawings of this. Those would be an asset if posted in Steel Soldiers along with the NSN of the part. Maybe an ancient Linley and an old South Bend lathe are as the tools it was built with the first time.
A thousandths is still a thousandths.
Me thinks it is more the machinist than the machines, you get another "ATTABOY".

 

[Engineer 1SG]

I'll get the shop drawings finalized and upload them along with the NSN. The 5 ton shaft is very similar, just longer.