• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Making a compression tester adapter?

Quetzal

New member
6
0
0
Location
Middle of Nowhere / AZ
I haven't been able to find a photo of one of these, just mumblings about being able to make one from butchering an old injector. I think the first attempt (in the background, laying on the step) was cut too short and maybe not sealing well? Best tests were hitting 140 psi, with most somewhere between 50psi and nearly 0. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if those readings are accurate, it would not run and drive, yeah? It runs and drives, just sounds like not all cylinders are participating and smells like unburned diesel. Lots of white smoke. Oil on the dipstick does not look like chocolate milk, but it has been a bit thirsty for coolant (we have been doing some hill climbs and long days though)

Tried making another one and leaving it long, but it was reading flat 0. I know I have to hack more off or remove some guts, since pressure isn't making it up to the gauge, I am just curious how or where I should hack it. Has anyone made a functional one?

It seems like you should be able to unscrew the bottom and open it to leave it long and pull the guts, but vice grips aren't doing it. Is there some secret here?

2017-07-15 17.23.58.jpg
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
749
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
Not really needed to adjust valves. I have heard of some members adjust them while the motor is running.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,211
2,815
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Not really needed to adjust valves. I have heard of some members adjust them while the motor is running.
It used to be that "real" mechanics adjusted the valves while the engine was running. That way the temperature was stable and the lash would be correct for the engine. About in the 1970's that all pretty much stopped. There really isn't much difference between a warm engine and a cold engine. Maybe a 0.0005" ! Plus no engine oil everywhere. I still remember getting reamed out from some ancient old mechanics telling me I didn't know what I was doing adjusting valves with the engine off! Funny, now I'm the ancient old mechanic !
 

Quetzal

New member
6
0
0
Location
Middle of Nowhere / AZ
Happy to let you borrow it when I'm done, but I am traveling a lot for work, so it may not be anytime soon. I could sent it to you early August if you promise to send it back by September 7th. :)
 

DavidWymore

Well-known member
1,598
164
63
Location
El Centro, CA
Q, gimpy is your guy...has knowledge and parts at very reasonable prices, good guy! Rusty, Floridianson, and others are very knowledgeable too.

Gents,

I may be traveling to visit my brother near where Q is located and lend a hand on repairing or replacing the engine. Any and all opinions as to cause of low compression and white smoke, slobber tube leaking compression, etc. appreciated! I'm hopefully suspecting valvetrain problems...maybe head gasket. Compression readings were consistent 300 psi, right, Q?
 

M543A2

New member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,063
11
0
Location
Warsaw, Indiana
We have adjusted valves both ways. Don't run a Chevy small block that oils through the pushrods with valve covers off unless you want oil on your shop walls! We never had much trouble that way with most other engines though. The most important thing is to be sure the valve stem tip has not worn a path in the end of the rocker. If that depression is there, you cannot set the valve correctly no matter what method you use. You need to dress the rocker ends to remove the depression.
We have also encountered situations where we set the valves then find that one or more will be fine, then click louder than they should for a while, then get quiet again. Searching found that the lifter had not been rotating on the cam lobe as it should so the cam wore a groove in the lifter face. When the lifter happens to rotate so the groove is not in contact with the cam lobe, the noise goes away if the lash happened to be set with the lifter positioned with the groove not in contact with the lobe. Also, this problem can be the opposite scenario, set the lash when the worn lifter groove is contacting the cam lobe and when it rotates off the groove you have a tighter valve lash. When all is working correctly you should see the pushrods rotating with the lifters. Cam lobes are ground with a slight angle to promote rotation. A worn cam will not rotate the lifters.
 
Top