Making a fiberglass hood?

[Darwin T]

Darwint, the picture you posted is my Fiberglass Hardtop. I have been making them for many years. The 3 light mount bars are re-inforcement stiffeners too, as are the 2 smaller bars in between them. When my hardtop is bolted down to the truck, you can walk on it, which is not true with factory steel hardtops. I sell these is 3 weight grades and have them in stock. JT out

there are awsome, i talked to some one a year are so ago about them. this is when i only had my M109a3 and was looking for a m66 ring mount. now i also have two M35a2's. what i am looking for though is one that is flat on tops like the hardtops but without the stuff on the inside so i can cut a hole and put the ring reinforcement on it under my m66 ring mount. i have also been trying to find one like Billy Bobbed has. his is solid 1/8" welded steel off of a forest fire fighting truck. you can see his top in a "dome light install in a hard top" page 4.

 

[Riktord]

He'll just use my existing hood to make the mold from. Lay glass and resin over it so it holds tight to it, pop it off after it dries and presto, instand mold. Then just do it in reverse, feather out the underhood, or if need be make another mold for the inside, then form the 2 halves into a whole and you're done. Quick, easy, pretty to look at and above all funtional. Now there may be some wood added into it for the hinge and hook parts, but as a whole, it isn't too hard from what I've seen him do with other stuff in the past.

If he has the original, he's crazy fast at popping replicas out.

Wood is used in the process of building the plug or the mold you never use mood in the final product unless youre making a ****ed boat.

Aluminum strips or bars molded into a frame for the final fiberglass product should yeild enough strength for all the critical points such as hinges, latchs and contact points.

 

[Bigmanbrock07]

Wood is used in the process of building the plug or the mold you never use mood in the final product unless youre making a ****ed boat.

Aluminum strips or bars molded into a frame for the final fiberglass product should yeild enough strength for all the critical points such as hinges, latchs and contact points.

Been around many racing hoods that require stock hinges and latches? I can't count how many fiberglass cowl hoods I've seen with oak in the hinge areas or the latch? Aluminum would be wonderful in most areas, but isn't always best. Wood can be shaped much better for strength at latch points most times on regular cars, unless you have a bridgeport handy. Now for these trucks, a thin strip of aluminum would be perfect I would imagine. We'll see what he says when I get back in a couple weeks.

 

[Riktord]

Been around many racing hoods that require stock hinges and latches? I can't count how many fiberglass cowl hoods I've seen with oak in the hinge areas or the latch? Aluminum would be wonderful in most areas, but isn't always best. Wood can be shaped much better for strength at latch points most times on regular cars, unless you have a bridgeport handy. Now for these trucks, a thin strip of aluminum would be perfect I would imagine. We'll see what he says when I get back in a couple weeks.

I've designed an build composite shells for automotive racing as well as one peice hulls for boats. Although wood is a simple medium i have moved from it and found that aluminum and far more versitile especially considering is degredation and corrosion resistance is far greater than wood.

Not saying wood is BAD. It's just an old medium and i prefer aluminum. Once anealed it is very easy to work with. Not to mention who doesn't enjoy pounding something with a hammer?

 

[JCKnife]

Darwint, the picture you posted is my Fiberglass Hardtop. I have been making them for many years. The 3 light mount bars are re-inforcement stiffeners too, as are the 2 smaller bars in between them. When my hardtop is bolted down to the truck, you can walk on it, which is not true with factory steel hardtops. I sell these is 3 weight grades and have them in stock. JT out

I don't see them on your website...have a link?

 

[JCKnife]

I've searched this site and the -20 TM and can't find info on how to remove the hood hinges. The forward half of the hinge is obvious but it looks like the nuts holding the rear half of the hinges are up behind the firewall? Any tricks to reaching / removing those?

It's a rusty area on my truck that needs attention.

 

[gringeltaube]

........... Any tricks to reaching / removing those?

A 7/16" wrench and monkey arms.... or Soldier B...?

It's kind of tricky but you should be able to reach/hold the nuts after folding up the WS. Removing the instrument panel makes it easier.

G.

 

[jatonka]

I haven't put them on the website as I cannot ship them, just pickup at my place. JT

 

[JCKnife]

I haven't put them on the website as I cannot ship them, just pickup at my place. JT

Anybody coming from your place to Haspin this year? Cost?

 

[jesusgatos]

I Might be interested in an A3 hood "if" its strong enough to walk on.

I got a fiberglass A3 hood for my A2 and it's easily strong enough to walk on.

Like I said, the A3 composite hood is pretty freaking strong.

 

[trukhead]

I want a composite A3 hood; that is light so I can lift it and strong so I can walk on it. Why because customer is king!

Been around many racing hoods that require stock hinges and latches? I can't count how many fiberglass cowl hoods I've seen with oak in the hinge areas or the latch? Aluminum would be wonderful in most areas, but isn't always best. Wood can be shaped much better for strength at latch points most times on regular cars, unless you have a bridgeport handy. Now for these trucks, a thin strip of aluminum would be perfect I would imagine. We'll see what he says when I get back in a couple weeks.

Time for the 21st century!

How about titanium inserts?

I've designed an build composite shells for automotive racing as well as one peice hulls for boats. Although wood is a simple medium i have moved from it and found that aluminum and far more versitile especially considering is degredation and corrosion resistance is far greater than wood.

Not saying wood is BAD. It's just an old medium and i prefer aluminum. Once anealed it is very easy to work with. Not to mention who doesn't enjoy pounding something with a hammer?

And carbon fiber.

Like I said, the A3 composite hood is pretty freaking strong.