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Manifold Heater Problems

Maxwell1815

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I am pretty sure that my manifold heater is not working at all. This is my first deuce, and I am tired of spraying ether to get her running on the cold days. Can anyone tell me what to look for, or what normally goes bad on these systems? I know I do not have the sealed unit. i am going to probe for power at the injector tonight, and go from there. But any help and input would be greatly appreciated.
 

dmetalmiki

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R U ready for this?

CLEAN THE PLUG!.. (yep) they fire just like regular spark plugs but if they (do) get "fouled up" (like a smokey car / motorcycle etc ) they fire (burn) down the crud instead of accross the electrode. My wrecker got harder and harder to start untill finally "the dreaded ether".. I cleaned the plug ..NO go!.. the pump ran OK BUT! it was not pumping fuel. I changed mine as I have spare engines (as U do!...) oh and it is the pUMP ATOP the engine that primes the igniter. (thats a thought CHECK your igniter. ) same as testing a plug = have someone operate the fuel primer switch while you hold the plug METAL case to metel ground. (hold the metal NOT the harness!) if it fires after cleaning (or NOT BEFORE!) there's your answer. else as said it could be the Pressure pump. check fuel flow to the igniter (same = someone operates the switch while you observe. Lastly (of course) and hopefully it is NOT the igniter itself (clean plug no spark) let us know if the quick fix worked 4 you. good luck.
P.S. if it is working ok you WILL hear it "ignite" ( my M54A2 makes a DEFINATE explosion in the manifold! the wrecker sounds like a stock car taking off!) hold the switch ON while cranking and untill shortly AFTER it fires and RUNS ok.
 

harleyrkc

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This is my first winter with a duece, but I haven't had any problems yet. It was only faintly a rough start around 25*, and I haven't even tried the manifold heater yet.
 

Maxwell1815

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Lima/Ohio
Oh yea, I forgot to mention that I do have a fuel leak, but it doesn't look like it is coming from the heater injector area, more from the rotary pump/fuel distributor area. i should probably clean that and find the source of the leak first! Thanks for all of your advice. I will keep you updated.
 

cranetruck

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The flame heater parts can be tested individually or together.
The nozzle must atomize the fuel in a funnel like pattern, test by installing it in a clear plastic bottle and observe the spray.
The igniter produces a continues spark for as long as the switch is turned on. The cable sheathing is grounded to the spark plug and it should fire when held up (doesn't need to touch metal (=ground)).
Test both together as shown in image below.
There is no good way of knowing if it is working when installed on the engine and running it without ignition will put raw fuel into the intake manifold. I put together an optical sensor to monitor the operation, but that is another story...
 

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hklvette

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Bjorn,

I'm curious how you setup an optical sensor. I assume it functions similar to an automatic night-light, but with a switch that closes when lit.
 

cranetruck

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Bjorn,

I'm curious how you setup an optical sensor. I assume it functions similar to an automatic night-light, but with a switch that closes when lit.
Here are a few images. The light fixture on the dash is grounded to the dash (not shown in the dwg).
For more, see "The multifuel flame heater", MVM Issue #99, October 2003.
 

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Last edited:

Farmun

Member
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Location
Ashland City, TN
Does the manifold heater have a maximum temperature setting up to where it works? (Like 20* or so.) The ether systems do, or at least that's my understanding.

I don't think my manifold heater works either, so I installed a block heater. I know that thing works. The only problem with it is that you have to plan ahead when starting the truck in cold weather. You can't just run out, hit the switch (manifold heater switch), fire up her up and go.

Need to get that thing fixed....
 

Maxwell1815

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Lima/Ohio
Well, I was going to test my components this weekend but got stuck helping my friend put his lift on his Chevy. Hopefully I get to it this week. Thanks again for all of your info!
 

Maxwell1815

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Location
Lima/Ohio
I fixed my fuel leak, it was just a loose fitting on the injector line. I messed around with the heater a little bit today, I do not have any spark, and it doesn't look like I have much fuel flow through the lines. I checked power to the ignition unit and I only have 3V when the switch is thrown. And at the pump i only have 9V. Is there something wrong with this? I assumed I should have 12V to both while operating the manifold heater.
 

Maxwell1815

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Lima/Ohio
Ok, I finally got it figured out....well...kinda. I had the spark plug out and I was pulling the switch and i didn't have any spark. After testing power to the ignitor and pump and only having 3-9 volts, I decided to check my switch for continuity. I did that, and I had 0 ohms. so i had my buddy pull the switch while i looked for spark again and i had spark and the pump was running and atomizing fuel into the intake. so the only thing i can figure is there was a bad connection at the switch.
 

Maxwell1815

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Location
Lima/Ohio
Sorry for the broken up response but i was afraid of timing out. lol so i started it cold, and used the flame heater, and I am pretty sure it works! The engine was stumbling, and I pulled the switch and it smoothed right out. So thanks everyone for their input, I really appreciate it.
 

DieselBob

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Arnold Maryland
Glad to hear you have it working. I was checking through a couple trouble shooting sections and thinking it might have been a bad switch causing the low voltage readings because of bad contacts in the switch.
 

Maxwell1815

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Location
Lima/Ohio
Yeah, I found TM 9-2815-210-34-2-2, and went off of that, and somewhere in there it said to check the switch continuity, and when i pulled the 2 wires off of the switch, I found that there was nothing wrong with it. But when i plugged the wires back in, it fired. Thanks DieselBob and everyone else for your info and help. Greatly appreciated. [thumbzup]
 

hklvette

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Christiansburg, VA
On a similar note: Does anyone know if NOS spark plugs and cables are available for the flame heater? I rigged something together for mine after finding out that the insulation was cracked, but would like to get the "right" part if its available.

Thanks!
 

orren

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Live Oak, Florida, USA
Manifold Flame Heater

Seems from your writings that you have had some experience with flame heaters. I have done everything with mine and still can't get it to let fuel through.

Do you know of anyone who can rebuild these things or sell me a working
piece?

Thanks for your help.

Orren

The flame heater parts can be tested individually or together.
The nozzle must atomize the fuel in a funnel like pattern, test by installing it in a clear plastic bottle and observe the spray.
The igniter produces a continues spark for as long as the switch is turned on. The cable sheathing is grounded to the spark plug and it should fire when held up (doesn't need to touch metal (=ground)).
Test both together as shown in image below.
There is no good way of knowing if it is working when installed on the engine and running it without ignition will put raw fuel into the intake manifold. I put together an optical sensor to monitor the operation, but that is another story...
 
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