Manifolds R&R

[Jusjofok]

I have a couple exhaust leaks at the head to manifold intersection so I picked up a couple new gaskets and reviewed the TM's. It looks pretty straight forward but I am a one-man show, is it something I can do alone or will I need a helper to position/hold the manifolds in position during assembly? Anything in particular I should look out for other than the typical exhaust complications (rusted fasteners, broken studs, eroded port faces, etc)? I plan on replacing the water manifold couplings and the turbo gasket at the same time I am there.
Thanks in advance.

 

[gimpyrobb]

In the 40 years that my deuce has been around, I have found some loose fasteners on her. Have you tried simply re-torquing everything?

To answer your question, no, you should be able to do it all yourself. I have found it much easier if I pull the valve covers to do the water jackets on the top of the heads. Make sure you have drained the coolant though.

Edit, the intake and exhaust have to come off together, its not fun but if you know it and are ready, its not a big deal.

 

[Jusjofok]

No loose fasteners in this case, I can see the gap where a section of gasket is missing.
The manual states they come off together but go back on exhaust then intake, is that true? I am not sure which engine it is but its a 1970 A2 with a cover over the manifold heater that sits on top of the intake.

 

[gimpyrobb]

You'll see when they come off. Its pretty easy to figure out.

Sounds like a standard multifuel.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Soak all the exhaust fasteners with ATF for a couple of days before removal. You will probably find some gunk in the water manifolds to clean out. Depending on the carnage upon removal you might need some new studs for intake and or exhaust; be careful with the water manifold hardware - on mine they were soft bolts and snap very easily when the threads are rusted in. Definitely all new nuts and washers. Explore the depth of your pockets and consider putting brass nuts on the exhaust to lessen the pain for the next removal. If not, at least use high temp anti seize. There is a couple of nuts directly behind the turbo flange that are a royal treat to get to. Generally, the designers of the manifold tried to keep the clearances so that no tool a normal human would try to use really fits in there.

 

[gringeltaube]

......Generally, the designers of the manifold tried to keep the clearances so that no tool a normal human would try to use really fits in there.

Very true!

 

[Jusjofok]

Thank you guys very much for the pointers. I have already begun soaking the fasteners in penetrating oil and have noticed the limited wrench clearance on everything.
I was hoping to leave the water manifolds on the heads if at all possible but realize it may not be an option.
Where does one locate brass nuts? Fastenal? What are their specs, the originals appear to be part number 5310-791-9528 but I can't find any relationship or even any size. A MS21043 looks like it will fit the bill (self locking, reduced height, integral washer, high heat) but they don't come any larger than a 3/8.
Thanks again.

 

[yolner]

Thank you guys very much for the pointers. I have already begun soaking the fasteners in penetrating oil and have noticed the limited wrench clearance on everything.
I was hoping to leave the water manifolds on the heads if at all possible but realize it may not be an option.
Where does one locate brass nuts? Fastenal? What are their specs, the originals appear to be part number 5310-791-9528 but I can't find any relationship or even any size. A MS21043 looks like it will fit the bill (self locking, reduced height, integral washer, high heat) but they don't come any larger than a 3/8.
Thanks again.

Go to mcmaster.com. They have just about anything including brass nuts. Not sure on the size/thread needed though.

 

[dmetalmiki]

I seem to remember a "cranked spanner" makes things easier, I have one I made from a long wrench, heated it up and bent it to the required angle.

 

[cattlerepairman]

I would spin out a stud and get replacements and hardware while the penetrating oil does its magic. When you re-assemble, put the exhaust and intake manifolds on together. No force required - be patient if they hang up somewhere. You should be able to seat them by hand only, then secure with a couple of nuts each. Make sure, when you tighten, that the manifolds still sit flush and did not move away from the head surface and are hung up on a stud thread. If you tighten them while they are hung up you can crack off one of the "ears" with the stud hole in the manifold. Has happened to quite a few people....

As for the turbo gasket, if the turbo has been off it should be straightforward. If the turbo has been on forever and the bolts are nice and rusty, it will be fun. You may get two - or three - of the four and the last one is again a clearance wonder. Be prepared to torch it off and then drill it out. Great fun can be had by all.