Manual transmission swap and stock locker road manners

[Finnegan1008]

I am in the process of swapping a NV4500 into my m1008.

I hear with a manual I will really notice the rear locker on the street.

Does anyone have any experience with this?

 

[87cr250r]

I notice the rear locker on the street with my automatic transmission. If you're off and on the throttle a lot as you would be in stop and go traffic the locker will jump sometimes. It feels like the truck changes lanes but it doesn't. You'll get used to it.

 

[adf5565]

I don't have a definitive answer regarding the locker with the nv4500 other than I've seen folks mention it occurring on here a few times. But if you're able to post a swap thread for your trans swap I (and I'm sure others) would be interested in reading it!

 

[Finnegan1008]

I don't have a definitive answer regarding the locker with the nv4500 other than I've seen folks mention it occurring on here a few times. But if you're able to post a swap thread for your trans swap I (and I'm sure others) would be interested in reading it!

I certainly will! There are already some excellent threads on this site I’m using as a reference.

So far I have the transmission and hydraulic clutch pedal set. I need to order all of the rest and should have everything collected in a month or two to begin the work.

 

[Finnegan1008]

I notice the rear locker on the street with my automatic transmission. If you're off and on the throttle a lot as you would be in stop and go traffic the locker will jump sometimes. It feels like the truck changes lanes but it doesn't. You'll get used to it.

I'm quite familiar with driving lockers with auto transmissions. The reason for my post is a manual transmission is a direct drive (no slip at all) and supposedly makes these traits worse... Curious to hear others experiences with a manual transmission / Detroit locker setup

 

[87cr250r]

The clutch friction disk has a spring damper plate to absorb shock loading

 

[Barrman]

Tire pressure will really affect the “lane change” feel of the locker with a manual transmission. My M715 with a 6.2 diesel with the tires way up in pressure drives like any other vehicle. Lower the tire pressure to around 20 psi and it is a different animal. Especially on the power in 3rd gear. Every little toe wiggle needs a steering adjustment.

 

[msgjd]

I am in the process of swapping a NV4500 into my m1008
Does anyone have any experience with this?

Not with chevies but it's an "easy" swap in a M880-series, which already has the correct A-frame assy under the dash for adding a clutch pedal, and the tranny/xfer adapter & mounts are the same between standard and automatic.. If the same is true for chevy, you will be glad you did it

the "hardest" part will be getting the holesaw perfectly in the right spot on the hump

 

[Finnegan1008]

Not with chevies but it's an "easy" swap in a M880-series, which already has the correct A-frame assy under the dash for adding a clutch pedal, and the tranny/xfer adapter & mounts are the same between standard and automatic.. If the same is true for chevy, you will be glad you did it

the "hardest" part will be getting the holesaw perfectly in the right spot on the hump

I’m very fortunate to have a lift and tranny Jack so it should be a pretty straight forward deal. I'd love to get my hands on a M880 some day! Unfortunately I will be swapping the entire pedal set and it probably won't be super fun.

I'm looking forward to rowing gears again someday soon!

 

[msgjd]

Unfortunately I will be swapping the entire pedal set and it probably won't be super fun.

I had to do the whole pedal set/A-frame with a 70's plymouth when I swapped in a 4-banger. It was a PITA to R/R it... So you can imagine I was very happy to discover I didn't have to do that with the M880 , the capability to add the clutch pedal was already there!

On the M880, I supported the back of the engine, had a tranny jack at the balance point between tranny/xfer, unbolted the support crossmember and lowered the entire tranny/xfer together as one unit.. Did the swap, and then rolled it back up in place as one unit.. It went very well, without a Soldier B

On the dodge's though, there's a 50/50 chance they have a pilot hole in the crankshaft ,, I don't know about the chevies

 

[Finnegan1008]

On the dodge's though, there's a 50/50 chance they have a pilot hole in the crankshaft ,, I don't know about the chevies

I keep telling my self Chevys are like legos, it’s pretty much a bolt in deal. I plan to do a thread documenting either how straight forward the swap is, or how foolish I am

 

[Valley Rock]

The locker does not know what transmission is in front of it, it's YOUR driving technique that allows it to go smoothly through a corner, or all Herky jerky .

If your truck is going to spend most of its life on asphalt, then take the locker out of the rear, and lock up the front instead with whatever methodry you prefer .

If you have selectable lockouts on your front hubs you can weld, spool, or Detroit that front carrier and it will have zero effect on driveabilty until you engage the lockouts and pull the 4wd lever .

You will still have the same three wheel drive you have now, but with zero pavement princess issues .

Then you can put that factory 14 bolt Locker on eBay and sell it for 500 bucks like I did because they're better than the jewkon junk that's being sold meow made from chinee potmetal .

 

[nyoffroad]

I've driven a CUCV with a 4spd on the street and just like an auto if you are on the throttle making a corner than tires will squeal or something will break, simple solution is to ease thru the corners.

 

[Dave Kay]

... few years ago, I had a 4:10 Detroit Locker installed on my old 2-wheel drive '77 C20 (w/TH350 trans) and without my 1400lb truck-camper in the bed, I noticed the locker cluck-sound fairly often on asphalt. With camper on the bed I rarely heard the cluck-sound but for sure it was, as I learned, nothing to worry about.