• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Mav’s M1088A1 Conversion

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,774
19,893
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Ah dang well I might have just enough cage bolts
.
The cage bolts should be in their holders on the spring brake chambers. If they aren't there, NAPA generally has them in stock. Two of the caging bolts on the M1088 are a little shorter than the others. The shock seems to be in the way with the bolts that are a little longer.

As far as what gets caged... The chambers that are "double size" for lack of a better description are the ones you need to "lock out" or cage. The only time you should cage your brakes are to move the truck - to release the brakes - if you have no air. Or if you are replacing the diaphragms...

If you are being towed by a wrecker or if you are on the end of a tow bar, don't cage the brakes. Not caging behind a towing vehicle gives you the additional stopping power of the towed vehicle. That is why there is a set of glad hands on the front of the truck...

Brake Applied
Spring Brake Chamber - Brake Applied.jpg

Brake Released (but Not Caged)
Spring Brake Chamber - Brake Not Applied.jpg
 
Last edited:

Mavcaster

Well-known member
201
422
63
Location
Maryland
Yeah there is just one at each wheel but managed to scrounge up another 3 so left with one short. Just gonna try and drag the one wheel. Only need to go a few feet to get the cab back under the canopy while I start pulling apart the motor.




Duramax having a hard time getting her to slide.
 
Last edited:

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,774
19,893
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Yeah there is just one at each wheel but managed to scrounge up another 3 so left with one short. Just gonna try and drag the one wheel. Only need to go a few feet to get the cab back under the canopy while I start pulling apart the motor.




Duramax having a hard time getting her to slide.
.
You need just one bolt on each of the brake cans on the back of the axles on the M1088
 
Last edited:

Mavcaster

Well-known member
201
422
63
Location
Maryland
Just remove the wheel on the one you cant cage:) or apply air to the front red gladhand, which is how a towing vehicle would release them…
Front emergency glad hand was the first thing that I tried but I think I have a stuck check valve because couldn’t get the system to build pressure from that.

Gave me a reason to test 4 Low on the pickup anyway..
 

RRaulston

Well-known member
227
551
93
Location
Sahuarita, Arizona
They do all use the same oil pump. The listings I see show the same pump being used on 3116, 3126, and C7. So potentially yes the 3116 could have the older pump design and could be upgraded to the gerotor pump if needed or desired.
Is this a complex job? I have 50psi cold then dropping to 18-20 @165. I had it to 180 once and full RPM was almost 40. Maybe I'm worried about nothing... My neighbor has a c7 in his LMTV and he has 20 PSI more than me across the board...
 

GeneralDisorder

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,080
5,312
113
Location
Portland, OR
Is this a complex job? I have 50psi cold then dropping to 18-20 @165. I had it to 180 once and full RPM was almost 40. Maybe I'm worried about nothing... My neighbor has a c7 in his LMTV and he has 20 PSI more than me across the board...
If this was my truck - I would pull the pan and check the pump condition. Given this numbers and the knowledge of the change in pump design..... I would have to see for myself.

Looks to be a fairly easy job.
 

Mavcaster

Well-known member
201
422
63
Location
Maryland
.
You need just one bolt on each of the brake cans on the back of the axles on the M1088
Maybe I misunderstood your post but looking back at the diagram you shared (and as GeneralDisorder also mentioned), it appears that every single can on the rear axles need to be caged in order to release parking brakes (8 total)? Just trying to clear that up for my future reference.
 

RRaulston

Well-known member
227
551
93
Location
Sahuarita, Arizona
If this was my truck - I would pull the pan and check the pump condition. Given this numbers and the knowledge of the change in pump design..... I would have to see for myself.

Looks to be a fairly easy job.
I think I'm going to take it apart and inspect/change the pump in a few months when it warms up. First, I'm going to hard plumb an oil pressure gauge to verify my dash gauge. $785 for a new style CAT reman oil pump. Ouch. $250 for a Chinese pump.....nope..
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,774
19,893
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Maybe I misunderstood your post but looking back at the diagram you shared (and as GeneralDisorder also mentioned), it appears that every single can on the rear axles need to be caged in order to release parking brakes (8 total)? Just trying to clear that up for my future reference.
.
@Mavcaster , just the cans on the back axle need to be caged IF you have no air in the brake system. Yessir, I may have mis-stated. There are a total of 8 cans on the two rear axles.

M1088 Spring Brake Cans (2eachAxle).jpg

Instructions are in the TM.
TM-9-2320-366-10-2

Caging Process is extracted from that TM and is attached below.
 

Attachments

Mavcaster

Well-known member
201
422
63
Location
Maryland
Trying to figure out why the parking brake will not disengage all of a sudden. Truck has been sitting for a few weeks while I've had the engine oil pan removed but just got that back on and couldn't move the truck. In the meantime, I did remove the 5th wheel air hookups (hoses still installed but now capped) could that be causing an issue? I would ultimately like to delete these lines altogether since I will be removing the 5th wheel.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,774
19,893
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Trying to figure out why the parking brake will not disengage all of a sudden. Truck has been sitting for a few weeks while I've had the engine oil pan removed but just got that back on and couldn't move the truck. In the meantime, I did remove the 5th wheel air hookups (hoses still installed but now capped) could that be causing an issue? I would ultimately like to delete these lines altogether since I will be removing the 5th wheel.
.
If it is anything like mine - if you have been getting rain - a drum might be seized to the brake shoes. Seems that several others here have had the same problem. If mine sits around in the rain for more than a week, it requires a "love tap" on the steel part of the brake shoe.

If you have re-plumbed air lines, all bets are off though.
 

Mavcaster

Well-known member
201
422
63
Location
Maryland
.
If it is anything like mine - if you have been getting rain - a drum might be seized to the brake shoes. Seems that several others here have had the same problem. If mine sits around in the rain for more than a week, it requires a "love tap" on the steel part of the brake shoe.

If you have re-plumbed air lines, all bets are off though.
Right yeah I know that problem well but brakes have been caged for the last few weeks while truck wasn’t running. The problem i’m having is park brake button will not release the brakes, air pressure is good front and rear but brake lines at each port below where the christmas tree sits are now disconnected. I assumed since these are trailer brake lines they wouldn’t effect truck brakes but could be wrong here.

Park brake button is popping back out immediately that is.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks