MEP-002 Cranks but won't Start

[jbk]

looks like one or more cylinders not firing. some guesses, timming off on your ip install. remove valve cover watch for valves closing (rockers loose) on #1 cyl. then install pump. defective ip pump, compresion problem (rings or valves), or bad injector.

 

[DeucesWild11]

Well it's a brand new IP. I understood the timing instructions as: rotate the flywheel and line up the pointer with the PC mark, then turn the IP till you can lock it in place with a small pin or copper wire, then install. I was thinking a score in the cylinder or ring problem as it looks like Diesel is mixing with the motor oil. Hopefully it's just a timing issue. Sounds like a real bad knock on the cylinder furthest from the IP, you can't hear it too well in the video.

Thank you for your post!

 

[Isaac-1]

I will leave it to those with first hand experience on this model, but it sounds to me like you may have it 1 full rotation out of time. A full cycle of the engine takes 2 turns of the crank, and therefore passes the timing mark twice, you may have it on the wrong part of the cycle.

Also get some fresh air in there before you kill yourself from carbon monoxide poisoning

 

[DeucesWild11]

Oh that was the kind of post I was hoping for, maybe it is just that stupid of a thing I did. I hope so, I really don't want to tear apart the engine, especially since I have never done that before.

Ha ha.. I took that vid last week so I'm still alive but thanks! The garage door was open and now it's outside so got to mess with it in the dark & cold..

 

[rickf]

I am not sure how many numbers you can be off on that button. Diesels are very timing critical. All the white smoke tells me that at least one cylinder is not firing. Did you check the button by the math method or the port timing method? The math method is best since you have both the new and old pumps and should have all the numbers needed. If the button is off you are sort of guessing at everything else. The button number will change with the pump, it could be substantially different with the new pump. I strongly suggest you do all the math for the button and see what you really need and that will most likely be your problem.

 

[jbk]

forgot about the button. with both pumps you can do the math method as rickf said. very important to get the button size right it will effect timming. most pumps are shipped without this button installed. that pc mark comes up for comp. stroke and exhaust. so you need to know your on the comp. stroke for #1.

 

[gimpyrobb]

His original pump was 1.091 with a #2 .116 button. I sent him a 1.083 with a #13 .125 button.
His original # was 1.207 the new pump is 1.208. Is that .001 going to make much difference?

 

[LuckyDog]

I don't think .001 will make a difference. The buttons are sized in .003 steps.

Do a compression check.

I had a really bad piston. I had a ton of blow by and would flood the engine with oil after a 10 minute run.

See: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?83566-Compression-Testing-on-MEP-002A-003A&highlight= Post #40 for pics of my piston.

 

[jbk]

no, the #13 is the closest button size.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Thats what I figured, thanks.

 

[DeucesWild11]

Thanks guys, I am going to try re-timing it since I only went by the PC mark and didn't look at the cylinder position, that could explain allot of my symptoms. Going to try it over the weekend, I've got my fingers crossed that it's that easy..

 

[wciguy]

I will leave it to those with first hand experience on this model, but it sounds to me like you may have it 1 full rotation out of time. A full cycle of the engine takes 2 turns of the crank, and therefore passes the timing mark twice, you may have it on the wrong part of the cycle.

Also get some fresh air in there before you kill yourself from carbon monoxide poisoning

It cannot be off a full revolution and still be running. Probably one injector not working or one cylinder with low compression due to bad ring, broken piston, or valves either out of adjustment or broken/bent.

 

[DeucesWild11]

Well guys, the winner is Isaac-1!! Thank you so much, I was one full rotation out! I pulled out the IP tonight just enough so that I could turn the flywheel another rotation and then bolted it all back together. I started her up and first of all she was much easier to start and then she smoked and knocked a little at first and then started running much more smoothly and didn't smoke much at all. I would have let her run more but I knew the engine oil was thinned out by the diesel fuel and didn't want to mess up anything.

I will do another oil change tomorrow and then take a video of it running again. I am so happy it was such an easy fix, if you guys are ever in my area I owe you a beer or two.. maybe three! I hope this post helps out someone else in the future who knows nothing about timing as I did. Hey this is the best way to learn in my opinion!

Thanks again all!

 

[gimpyrobb]

SWEET! Glad to hear it.

 

[Isaac-1]

I am glad to see you have it going, hopefully it will clear up and run after you put a little load on it and get the gunk burned out. If not you may need to adjust the valves.

 

[DeucesWild11]

Yeah, I am hoping it will just burn the rest of the gunk out, I really haven't had it running long yet as you can imagine.. Got to get some more 15-40 Rotella from Tractor Supply tomorrow and do a quick oil change on her, then let her run for a bit. Hopefully I won't need a valve adjustment but if I do that will be one more thing i'll have to learn.

After she's running, I want to install a new aluminum 12 gallon fuel tank so she'll run while I am at work if need be.. but that's for another thread! I'll post up a video of her running clean in the next few days so you can see the before and after.

Thank god for Steel Soldiers, I wouldn't have been able to maintain a Deuce and a MEP-002 without ya!

 

[Isaac-1]

Why 12 gallon, connect a 55 gallon drum to the aux fuel connector and get some real run time.

 

[DeucesWild11]

Here's a video of the unit running after I timed it correctly, sound normal to you guys? Just curious as I feel like I still here a knock, but then again my Deuce sounds similar.. Probably just the normal sound of the diesel engine?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-p_FZtX_sgk

Thank you all again for your help, I couldn't have figured it all out on my own.

PS: I also got a good shot of my retrofit fuel line in the video incase you're interested.

 

[DeucesWild11]

Isaac-1, the reason for the 12 gallon tank is that the onboard tank is rusted pretty well inside and fixing it would cost more than the generic 12 gallon aluminum tank. Even with a 55 gallon aux drum that fuel just re-fills the onboard tank, unless you run the plumbing differently. So either way I need a new tank so might as well upgrade! 20+ hours of run time is plenty for me.

Oh wait, now you got me thinking.. since the trailer is oversized for the unit. I could run the fuel lines forward and mount a 50 gallon tank in front of the unit! Thanks for the comment, you got me a thinking..

 

[rickf]

50 gallons of fuel forward of the unit adds 350lbs of weight to the tongue of the trailer!! You may want to rethink that and go with multiple smaller tanks distributed evenly.